FR2967060A1 - POWDER COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ESSENTIAL OIL, MODIFIED TAPIOCA STARCH - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a composition in the form of a powder comprising in a cosmetically acceptable particulate phase: a) at least one essential oil or a mixture of essential oils; b) at least one modified tapioca starch having a fat absorption capacity greater than 1 ml / g; c) at least one different charge of said starch. The present invention thus relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of body odors, in particular axillary odors consisting in applying to the skin, in particular the axillaries, a composition as defined above.

Description

POWDER COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ESSENTIAL OIL, MODIFIED TAPIOCA STARCH

The present application relates to a composition in the form of a powder comprising in a cosmetically acceptable particulate phase: a) at least one essential oil or a mixture of essential oils b) at least one modified tapioca starch having a capacity of absorption of a fatty substance greater than 1 ml / g; c) at least one different charge of said starch.

The present invention therefore relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of body odors, in particular axillary odors consisting in applying to the skin, in particular the axillaries, a composition as defined above. The most common deodorant compositions on the cosmetic market are in the form of roll-on, stick (or stick), in pressurized form in a device of the aerosol type with propellant or spray (spray). However, these types of dosage forms each have disadvantages and discomfort for the user. The roll-ons have the inconvenience of producing a wet sensation and having a long drying time. Aerosols and sprays have the drawbacks of producing a sternutatory effect in the consumer. The sticks as for them tend to leave traces, or a greasy deposit not always pleasant. These types of galenics tend for a variable period of time to form a wet film under the armpits.

For the treatment of body odors, the galenic form of powder makes it possible to avoid all these disadvantages. The use of polysaccharides and in particular starches and their derivatives is known in these applications. Starches are polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. The amylose / amylopectin weight ratio can range from 30/70 (maize) to 16/84 (rice).

These raw materials are often combined with other compounds to form more or less occlusive films on the skin. This can have many disadvantages such as the drying time, the feeling of discomfort, the fluffing of the film.

There remains the need to make cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the form of polysaccharide-based powder having good deodorant efficacy without the previously mentioned disadvantages such as a too long duration of drying, the sensation of discomfort or a phenomenon of linting.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved by using an essential oil or a mixture of essential oil in a powder associated with (a) at least one modified tapioca starch having a capacity of absorption of a body fat greater than 1 ml / g. The Applicant has also unexpectedly found that such a powder not only makes it possible to obtain a good deodorant efficiency but also an antiperspirant activity.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition in powder form comprising in a cosmetically acceptable particulate phase: a) at least one essential oil or a mixture of essential oils and b) at least one modified tapioca starch having an absorption capacity a fatty substance greater than 1 ml / g; c) at least one different charge of said starch.

Here, the term "cosmetically acceptable" means any support compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition.

"Modified starch" means any starch which has undergone chemical, physical or enzymatic transformation

Fatty substances consist of oils and waxes.

By "oil" is meant a liquid compound at room temperature.

By "wax" is meant a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point is generally greater than 35 ° C.

The Applicant has notably discovered that the compositions in accordance with the invention have a good bactericidal efficacy with regard to the microorganisms involved in the formation of axillary bad odors, mainly Corynebacterium xerosis and could therefore be used as a deodorant product.

The present invention therefore relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of body odors, in particular axillary odors consisting in applying to the skin, in particular the axillaries, a composition as defined above. ESSENTIAL OILS

According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation of water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition.

Modes of obtaining essential oils The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 200/0. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.

Training with water vapor

Steam training corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydrosol "or" floral distilled water ".

Dry distillation

The essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production. Cold expression

This method of production only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is the following: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial facilities allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.

Physico-chemical characters.

Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.

They are composed of molecules with a carbon skeleton, the number of carbon atoms being generally between 5 and 22. The main chemical classes of compounds present in the essential oils are:

terpene and sesquiterpenic carbides, for example: turpentine essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene, juniper essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene, cadinene, lemon essential oil: limonene.

alcohols, for example: essential oil of coriander: linalool essential oil of rosewood: linalool essential oil of rose: geraniol.

mixtures of esters and alcohols, for example: lavender essential oil: linalool and linalyl acetate; mint essential oil: menthol and menthyl acetate.

- aldehydes such as: cinnamon essential oil: cinnamal aldehyde 35 lemongrass essential oil: citral and citronellal essential oil of eucalyptus citrodora: citronellal.

- ketones such as: caraway essential oil: carvone 40 sage essential oil: thuyone thuya essential oil: thujone - phenols 45 thyme essential oil: thymol savory essential oil : carvacrol essential oil of oregano: thymol and carvacrol essential oil of clove: eugenol.

50 - ethers as for example: 15 essential oil of green anise, badian: anethol essential oil of fennel: anethole essential oil of eucalyptus globulus: eucalyptol essential oil of cajeput: eucalyptol essential oil of niaouli: eucalyptol

peroxides, for example: the essential oil of chenopodium: ascharidol the essential oil of garlic: allicin.

Essentially, the essential oils consist of a complex mixture of compounds belonging to these different chemical families.

Vegetable raw materials

The vegetable raw materials used to produce the essential oils are generally plants or parts of plants that are in various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh).

Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families:

Abietaceous or Pinaceae: Amaryllidaceae conifers 25 Anacardiaceae Anonaceae: ylang Apiaceae (eg umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley Arachnaceae 30 Aristolochiaceae Asteraceae: achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichrysum Brassicaceae Burseraceae: incense 35 Caryophyllaceae Canellaceae Césalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu) Chenopodaceae Cistaceae: rockrose 40 Cyperaceae Dipérocarpacées Ericaceae: wintergreen Euphorbiaceae Fabaceae 45 Geraniaceae: geranium Guttifères Hamamelidaceae Hernandiaceae Hypericaceae: St. John's wort 50 Iridaceae 15 Juglandaceae Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, melissa, rosemary Lauraceae: ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, bedsea Liliaceae: garlic Magnoliaceae: magnolia Malvaceae Meliaceae Moniiacea Moraceae: hemp, hops Myri Mysristicaceae: nutmeg Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle Oléacées Piperaceae: pepper Pittosporaceae Poaceae: lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver Polygonaceae Renonculaceae Rosaceae: roses Rubiaceae Rutaceae: all citrus Salicaceae Santalaceae: sandalwood Saxifragaceae Schisandraceae Styracaceae : benzoin Thymelaceae: agarwood Valillian tilliaceae: valerian, vine Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena Violaceae Zingiberaceae: galanga, turmeric, cardamom, ginger Zygophyllaceae Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, it is preferable to use tropical basilisk Cajeput Cinnamon

Lemon Catnip Citronella Clove Coriander Eucalyptus radiata Eucalyptus lemon Eucalyptus globulus Geranium Bourbon Geranium Laser siler Noble Laurel Lemongrass Green Mandarin Marjoram Sylvia Lemon balm Niaouli Spanish oregano Green oregano Rosemary cineole Rose Savory mountains Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) Thyme linalool Thyme Thyme "vulgaris" Thyme Thyme "zygis" Verveine Vetiver

The oil or the essential oils used according to the invention will be present in concentrations ranging preferably from 0.0010 / 0 to 100/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferably from 0.10 / 0 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PARTICULAR PHASE

The particulate phase in accordance with the invention comprises at least one feedstock different from the modified tapioca starch having a fat absorption capacity greater than 1 ml / g.

By filler, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The charge (s) are present in concentrations ranging preferably from 50 to 990/0 by weight and more preferably from 75 to 990/0 by weight and even more preferably from 80 to 990/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The charge can be spherical particles, lamellar particles or a mixture of spherical particles and lamellar particles.

Spherical particles are understood here to mean particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100 ° C. ).

The term "lamellar particles" is further understood to mean particles of parallelepipedal (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface 7) or ellipsoidal (oval surface) shape, characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100 ° C.). Spherical particles

The spherical particles used according to the invention have the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere and can be hollow or solid. Advantageously, the particles of the invention have a particle size (number average diameter) ranging from 0.1 μm to 250 μm and more preferably from 1 μm to 150 μm, and more preferably from 10 μm to 100 μm.

The spherical particles may be organic or inorganic microspheres. Spherical particles that may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, silica powder; polyamide particles and in particular NYLON 12, such as the product marketed under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile microspheres sold under the name EXPANCEL by Kemanord Piast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; natural organic powders such as bamboo powders, marketed for example by the company DRACO NATURAL PRODUCTS; native starch powders, modified starch powders other than the tapioca powder of the invention; silicone resin microbeads, in particular silsesquioxane powders, in particular described in patent EP 293795, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures.

These spherical particles may be present in amounts ranging preferably from 20 to 1000% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 500% and more preferably from 25 to 350% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particulate phase.

Starches used other than that of modified tapioca as described above may be unmodified (native) or chemically or physically modified.

"Unmodified or native starch" means any starch which has not undergone transformation by chemical, physical or enzymatic means.

These additional starches may have botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the natural starches can be chosen from starches of maize, rice, tapioca, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, palm, pea.5 Starches will be used more particularly unmodified rice such as the commercial product sold under the trade name REMI DR 1 by the company BENEO-REMY or corn (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) as the product sold under the trade name C Gel 04201 by the company CARGILL, as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650 by Corn Products International

The modified modified starches of the invention may be modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded to one another (for example with octenylsuccinate, glyceryl and / or phosphate anhydride groups). ).

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the An, -O-PO- (OX) -O-An type). ,) or even triamidon (of the type An, -O-PO- (O-An,) 2) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of starches crosslinked with octenyl succinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by the company National Starch, diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, in particular hydroxypropyl ethers of sodium phosphate. diamidon having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate as the products sold under the trade names FARINEX VA70 C or Farmal MS 689 from the company AVEBE Stadex; the products sold under the trade names STRUCTURE BTC, STRUCTURE HVS, STRUCTURE XL or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).

Lamellar particles As indicated above, lamellar particles are parallelepipedal (rectangular or square surface), discoidal (circular surface) or ellipsoidal (oval surface) particles, characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height. When the shape is circular, the length and width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, while the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc. When the surface is oval, the length and the width respectively correspond to the major axis and the minor axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptical disk formed by the wafer. When it is a parallelepiped, the length and the width may be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same size, the shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is square; otherwise, the shape is rectangular. As for the height, it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.

The length of the lamellar particles used according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 100 μm, better still from 0.1 to 50 μm and more preferably from 1 to 50 μm. The width of these platelets is preferably from 0.01 to 100 μm, more preferably from 0.1 to 50 μm and more preferably from 1 to 10 μm. And the height (thickness) of these platelets is preferably 0.1 nm to 1 μm (0.1 to 1000 nm), more preferably 1 nm to 600 nm and most preferably 1 nm to 500 nm.

As lamellar particles that can be used in the composition of the invention, lamellar silicates.

As lamellar silicates, mention may be made of clays, talcs, micas, pearlescent agents, perlites and mixtures thereof.

The clays are mixed silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum.

As clays that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of sodium and magnesium silicate (CTFA name: Sodium magnesium silicate), clays of the kaolin family, such as kaolin or kaolinite, dickite, nacrite ; clays of the family of halloysite, dombassite, antigorite, benthiérine, pyrophyllite; montmorillonites; beidellite; vermiculites; stensensite; hectorites; saponites; chlorites; sepiolite; smectite, as well as clays chemically modified for example by acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations, and mixtures thereof.

Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates, most often aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of the talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between silica layers.

Micas are aluminum silicates optionally comprising iron and / or alkali metals. They have the property of being able to divide into thin layers (about 1 μm). They generally have a size ranging from 5 to 150 μm, preferably from 10 to 100 μm and better still from 10 to 60 μm for the largest dimension (length), and a height (thickness) of 0.1 to 0.5 μm. . Micas include phlogopite, muscovite, fluorophlogopite, vermiculite, and mixtures thereof. Micaic clays such as illite can also be mentioned.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, serving to modify the texture of the composition as well as the dullness / shine effect. Nacres are usually micas treated surface to obtain this iridescent effect. Among the nacres that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of micas coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment and / or bismuth oxychloride, such as mica-titanium oxide ( or mica-titanium) colored or not, and mixtures thereof.

Among the lamellar silicates, there may also be mentioned perlites and preferably expanded perlites.

The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have as their composition 70.0-75.00 / 0 by weight of silica SiO2 12.0-15.00 / 0 by weight of aluminum oxide Al2O3 oxide 3.0-5.00 / 0 sodium oxide Na2O 3.0-5.00 / 0 potassium oxide K2O 0.5-20 / 0 iron oxide Fe2O3 0.2-0 , 70/0 magnesium oxide MgO 0.5-1.50 / 0 calcium oxide CaO 0.05 - 0.150 / 0 titanium oxide TiO2

Perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained called Perlite Ore is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm. Perlite Ore is then foamed (1000 ° C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900 ° C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the expansion of the material relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained by the expansion method described in US Pat. No. 5,002,698.

Preferably, the perlite particles used will be crushed; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm.

Preferably, the perlite particles used have a loose bulk density at 25 ° C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m 3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m 3.

Preferably, the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a WET POINT water absorption capacity ranging from 200 to 15000/0 and preferably from 250 to 8000/0. 40 The Wet Point is the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from that of oil application applied to solvents. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point having respectively the following definition:

WET POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product corresponding to obtaining a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.

FLOW POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product from which the amount of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This results in obtaining a more or less homogeneous mixture flowing on the glass plate.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the lamellar particles will be chosen from an expanded perlite, sodium silicate and magnesium; kaolin; kaolinite; a montmorillonite; a hectorite; talcum; a mica; a mother-of-pearl, and their mixtures.

More particularly, the lamellar particles will be chosen from expanded perlite, kaolin, talc or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, kaolin, such as the product marketed under the name COSLIN C-100 by the company Engelhard, is used more particularly in the composition of the invention as lamellar particles; talc such as those marketed under the names ROSE TALC and TALC SG-2000 by the company Nippon Talc; mica such as those sold under the names MICA M RP and SILK MICA by Merck; mica-titanium such as mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide (CTFA: Mica / Iron oxides / Titanium dioxide) marketed under the name Cloinon Rouge Flambe 440 X by the company Engelhard; a modified hectorite, such as a bentone; expanded perlite INCI name: EXPANSED MILLED PERLITE as marketed under the name OPTIMAT 1430 OR by 25 Word Minerais).

These lamellar particles may be present in amounts ranging preferably from 40 to 1000/0 by weight, more preferably from 50 to 910/0 and even more preferably from 600/0 to 800/0 by weight by weight relative to the total weight of the particulate phase.

Piqments

In addition to the fillers, the particulate phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise pigments.

By "pigments" is meant inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, for coloring and / or opacifying the composition. The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; 45 manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide. The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amines; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EPA-1086683.

25 Dyes

In addition to fillers and pigments, the particulate phase of the invention may comprise dyes.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise hydro or liposoluble dyes.

By "fat-soluble dyes" is meant generally soluble organic compounds in fats such as oils. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, 13-Carotene, Soybean Oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, D & C Purple No. ° 2, D & C Orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids. According to a particular preferred form of the invention, the particulate phase comprises at least one unmodified starch as described above and more particularly an unmodified rice starch, such as the commercial product sold under the trade name REMI DR 1 by the company BENEO -REMY or a 45 corn starch (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) such as the product sold under the trade name C Gel 04201 by the company CARGILL, such as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650 According to the invention, the unmodified starch (s) may preferably represent from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 20 to 900% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

STARCH OF MODIFIED TAPIOCA

One of the essential ingredients of the powder composition according to the invention is a modified tapioca starch having a fat absorption capacity greater than 1 ml / g; Preferably, the absorption capacity of a fatty substance varies from 2 to 6 ml / g. The fat absorption capacity can be measured according to the method described below:

Material:

- 10mL glass pipette class AS 10mL / 0.1mL with the following specifications: 20 length 36.4cm outside diameter: 11 mm inside diameter body: 8mm inner diameter tip: l mm - Pipette filter type Gilson F161280 25 - Support and rack for glass pipette - Small laboratory equipment (beaker, spatula, funnel, Erlenmeyer flask ....) - Precision balance type Mettler XP504

30 Editing:

- The glass pipette is cut 10 cm from the top end under the reservoir bulb. - Cut the Gilson filter, clear the 8mm diameter cylinder / 6mm length and introduced into the pipette to the tip. Procedure (at room temperature) If unknown, measure the density (p - rn / v) of the solvent used at the given temperature (where m is the mass of the homogeneous substance occupying a volume of 40 V).

Empty instruments are weighed (Erlen, weigh beaker, funnel) in order to be able to precisely determine the masses involved. 45 For example: M3 - Msolvant reagent - Merlen + solvent - Merlen vacuum - We weigh precisely 500 mg of raw material from starch and introduce them into the pipette: either M1 weighed mass (in mg) - lightly compact the powder. 7.5mL of solvent are added to the pipette, taking care to measure the corresponding mass (M2 in mg). The solvent is allowed to flow gravimetrically through the powder for 72 hours and to recover it in a 10mL Erlenmeyer flask. The residual solvent present in the pipette is removed by injecting air under pressure. The recovered solvent is weighed: either M3, the mass obtained in mg. The modified tapioca starch will be present in the powder of the invention preferably at contents ranging from 0.1 to 100% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The product sold under the trade name NATRASORB BATH by the company AKZO NOBEL will be used more particularly.

Additives

The compositions of the invention used for the treatment of body odors may additionally contain at least one perspiration treatment agent.

By "sweat-treating agent" is meant any substance which, on its own, has the effect of diminishing the sensation on the skin of moisture related to human sweat, of masking human sweat ".

The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminum or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, chlorohydrexpropylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, dichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

Complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride 45 with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes of zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine. _ Mz - M3 1 Mabsorbed (mL / 100g) x x 100 10 15

The antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 250% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.

Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2 ' 3-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca -2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetraacetic acid), 1,2 decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), biguanide derivatives such as sodium salts; polyhexamethylene biguanide, chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise).

Additional deodorant active agents also include: zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate - sodium bicarbonate; Salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid - silver or non-silver zeolites - alum.

The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular form of the invention, in order to improve the deodorant efficiency of the composition, it is possible to add a hydroxylated ester resulting from the esterification of polyol and C4-C16 carboxylic acid (s). .

HYDROXYL ESTERS RESULTING FROM THE ESTERIFICATION OF POLYOL AND (S) CARBOXYLIC ACID (S) IN C4 TO C16

The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are hydroxylated esters resulting from the esterification of polyol and carboxylic acid (s) C4 to C16, and more particularly C6 to C12, especially C, to Cao, and more particularly in C $ to Cs.5 The esters used according to the invention are in a hydroxylated form, that is to say carry at least one hydroxyl function, preferably 2 or even 3 or more, the hydroxyl functions being present on the alcohol residue of the ester.

Advantageously, the esters are at C10 to C20 and have at least one fatty chain.

In general, they derive from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyol with a C4 to C16 carboxylic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, the esters that are suitable for the present invention can be derived from the esterification of a polyol with different carboxylic acids, provided, of course, that the ester thus obtained has at least one and, preferably, two hydroxyl functional groups. free. It may be a hydroxylated monoester, a hydroxylated di-ester or a mixture thereof.

polyols

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least two hydroxyl (OH) groups.

The polyol may be in particular a hydrocarbon compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated bearing at least two, and in particular at least three OH functions. The polyol may in particular be a hydrocarbon compound having at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, and bearing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, it is a hydrocarbon compound having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The polyol may be a compound having 2 to 8 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl functions, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,3-trihydroxyhexane, butane diol, 1,2-propanediol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, and dulcitol, pentanediols and especially 1,2-pentanediol, sorbitol or mixtures thereof.

Examples of glycerol derivatives are butyldiglycol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, and castor oil. The polyol may be selected from glycerol polymers and copolymers, such as, for example, hexaglycerol and diglycerol.

Examples of glycol derivatives are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol and those defined above. The polyol may also be selected from sugars such as glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, and mixtures thereof.

A mixture of polyols can also be used. 25 45

The polyol used according to the invention may be, more particularly, chosen from glycerol, glycols and their derivatives.

Particularly preferred polyols are selected from glycerine, 1,2-propylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these polyols.

Carboxylic Acid The carboxylic acid can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

Illustrative examples of monocarboxylic acid suitable for the invention include butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid.

As representative of the branched acids, mention may be made more particularly of isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid, isohexanoic acid, isohéptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isoundecanoic acid, isododecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isotetradecanoic acid, isopentadecanoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2-butyloctanoic acid , 2-hexodecanoic acid. 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, and 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid. It is more particularly a non-hydroxyl acid C 1 to C 10 and more particularly heptanoic acid, caprylic acid and capric acid. Esters selected from mono- and / or di-glyceryl caprylate, mono- and / or di-glyceryl heptanoate, mono- and / or di-glyceryl caprylate, propylene glycol caprylate and heptanoate are particularly suitable for the invention. propylene glycol and mixtures thereof. It is more particularly monoglyceryl caprylate and its mixtures. Mention may in particular be made of the compounds sold under the name APMUL MCM or AKOLINE MCM (Caprylate / glyceryl Caprate) from Abitec, or DERMOSOFT GMCY (glycerol caprylate) from STRAETMANS, 50 CAPMUL 708 G (glyceryl caprylate at 750/0). monoesters) from abitec and hydroxyacids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydropentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid and CAPMUL 907P (propylene glycol heptanoate) are also suitable for the present invention. from ABITEC or CAPMUL 908P (propylene glycol caprylate) from ABITEC.

The ester (s) may be present in the composition of the invention at a content preferably ranging from 0.1 to 50/0, more preferably from 0.5 to 30/0 and more particularly from 1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

PACKAGES AND DEVICES According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compliant compositions may be packaged and dispensed in a "salt cell" type device equipped with a container comprising the composition and surmounted by a dispensing opening, in particular a dispensing grate comprising a plurality of holes; this opening can be fixed by a fixing ring connecting to the container by any appropriate means such as screwing, latching, crimping and generally comprising a cover reversibly closing said dispensing opening by any suitable means such as screwing, latching.

Said dispensing opening may be covered with an intermediate protective cover.

The device and its various elements will preferably consist of polyolefin type polymer such as polyethylene, polypropylene. The wall of the container may be flexible or rigid. Another object of the invention is constituted by such a packaging and dispensing device comprising a composition according to the invention as defined above.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compliant compositions may be packaged in the form of single dose sachets.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may be packaged in an applicator comprising a reservoir containing said composition, a cap intended to close the reservoir and an applicator holder supporting a deformable element for application of the product. , foam or low-hardness elastomer and the deformable element bearing surface roughness and being provided with a large memory shape. In this applicator, the reservoir is limited by a capillary tip in the form of a thimble having a bottom provided with a seat pierced with at least one capillary orifice against which the deformable element is applied and deformed in the closed position. of the tank by the cap. Such a device is described in particular in patent EP0612488.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may be packaged in a device as described in application EP1086904. It is a packaging device comprising a container having an interior space in which the composition of the invention in powder form is contained, a housing for receiving the applicator element and a permeable wall disposed between said housing and the inner space containing the composition, the applicator member and the housing being arranged such that the applicator element, when in said housing, has at least a surface portion lying uncompressed axial axis, facing an opening of the permeable wall, said inner space being of variable volume. In this device compression means are provided for selectively passing said interior volume from a first volume greater than the volume of the composition, to a second volume, less than the first, this volume reduction being accompanied by a suppression, which is able to promote the transfer of composition through said permeable wall to the applicator element.

The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight.

Example 1: Deodorant powder Ingredients Quantities ESSENTIAL OIL 5 g MANDARIN STARCH TAPIOCA MODIFIED 5 g (NATRASORB BATH from the company AKZO NOBEL) NOT MODIFIED RICE STARCH qs 100 g (REMI DR 1 by the company BENEO-REMY) Example 2: Deodorant powder Ingredients Quantities SODIUM BICARBONATE IN 15 FINE POWDER ESSENTIAL OIL 0.14 OF EUCALYPTUS THYME ESSENTIAL OIL 0.055 TAPIOCA AMIDON MODIFIED (NATRASORB BATH from the 0.5 company AKZO NOBEL) NON MODIFIED MAIZE STARCH (C * GEL 04201 from the company CARGILL) GLYCEROL CAPRYLATE 1.5 ULTRAFINE POWDER OF 10 BAM BOO KAOLINITE 20 TALC (GRANULOMETRY: 4.5 qs 100 g MICRONS) (IMPERIAL 400 - LUZENAC) 20

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition in powder form comprising in a cosmetically acceptable particulate phase a) at least one essential oil or a mixture of essential oils; b) at least one modified tapioca starch having a fat absorption capacity greater than 1 ml / g; c) at least one different charge of said starch. 10 The composition of claim 1, wherein the filler is composed of a mixture of spherical particles, lamellar particles or a mixture of spherical particles and lamellar particles. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the organic or inorganic spherical particles are chosen from silica powder; polyamide particles; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymer; expanded polymeric spherical powders; natural organic powders such as bamboo powders; native or modified cellulose powders, unmodified or modified starch powders; silicone resin microbeads and mixtures thereof. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 3, wherein the lamellar particles are lamellar silicates and more particularly chosen from clays, talcs, micas, nacres, pearlites and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the modified tapioca starch has a capacity for absorption of a fatty substance ranging from 2 to 6 ml / g. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the modified tapioca starch is present at levels ranging from 0.1 to 100/0 by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 50/0 relative to the total weight of the composition. 35 The composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the particulate phase comprises at least one unmodified starch. 8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein the unmodified starch is chosen from cereals or tubers, in particular from starches of maize, rice, tapioca, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, palm, pea and preferably from native maize or rice starches. 9. The composition of claim 7 or 8, wherein the unmodified starch is present at levels ranging from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 20 to 900/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 further comprising at least one hydroxyl ester resulting from the esterification of polyol and carboxylic acid (s) C4-C16. 30 50 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is packaged in the form of single-dose sachet. 12. A method for the cosmetic treatment of body odors, in particular axillary odors consisting in applying to the skin, in particular the axillaries, a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 11. 13. Device type "salt" with a container comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and surmounted by a dispensing opening including a distribution grid comprising a plurality of holes; this opening can be fixed by a fixing ring connecting to the container by any appropriate means such as screwing, latching, crimping and generally comprising a cover reversibly closing said dispensing opening by any suitable means such as screwing, latching. 14. Applicator comprising a reservoir containing a composition, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, a cap for closing the reservoir and an applicator holder supporting a deformable element for application of the product, foam or elastomer low hardness and the deformable element bearing on the surface of the asperities and having a large shape memory, characterized in that the reservoir is limited by a capillary end piece in the form of a thimble having a bottom provided with a seat pierced with at least one capillary orifice against which the deformable element is applied and deformed in the closed position of the reservoir by the cap. 15. A packaging device comprising a container having an interior space in which a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is contained, a housing for receiving the applicator element and a permeable wall disposed between said housing and the housing. interior space containing the composition, the applicator element and the housing being arranged such that the applicator element has, when in said housing, at least one surface portion located without substantial axial compression, view of an opening of the permeable wall, said interior space being of variable volume, characterized in that compression means are provided for selectively passing said interior volume from a first volume greater than the volume of the composition, to a second volume, lower than the first, this reduction of volume accompanied by a suppression, which is able to favor the transfer of compo sition through said permeable wall to the applicator element.