FR2957798A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, in water-in-oil emulsion type, for cosmetic treatment of keratin material e.g. skin, comprises an active living probiotic microorganism - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, where the composition is water-in-oil emulsion type, comprises at least one active living probiotic microorganism, where the microorganism is present in the aqueous phase, and comprises 0-0.001 wt.% of preservative. An independent claim is included for conditioning article comprising at least one sealed container containing the composition and means for distributing at least part of the composition, where the means allow for distributing the part of the composition without formal contact the remainder of the composition contained in the container with the external environment to the contents of the container.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of the pharmaceutical formulation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to formulations for maintaining the viability of live probiotic microorganisms and their stability in number over time. The invention relates to formulations, in particular for cosmetic or dermatological applications, administered, in particular, topically. Probiotic microorganisms are used in areas as diverse as cosmetics, dermatology, pharmacy or food. In cosmetics and dermatology, numerous compositions comprising probiotic microorganisms are proposed with a view to exerting different effects. For example, FR 2,920,300, FR 2,920,301, FR 2,920,307 or FR 2,922,450 propose compositions intended, respectively, to enhance the barrier function of the skin, to treat cutaneous dryness, to ensure a care of the skin. skin, or for the treatment of irritations or inflammations of the skin.

The interest of the use of probiotic microorganisms rests on the beneficial properties that they can exert with respect to the individual, in particular the human being, which shelters them. These properties result either from direct interactions between the cells of the individual and the microorganisms, or indirectly, through the release of active substances by these microorganisms or by a regulation of the microbial environment of the individual. made of the presence of these microorganisms. It appears that the maximum performance of the beneficial properties resulting from the use of the microorganisms would require to be able to use them in a living form. However, such use in cosmetics or dermatology proves to be difficult, even impossible, given the constraints of formulations of the compositions in these fields. Indeed the need to ensure, for the user, a constant quality of the compositions over time, during their use or their storage, generate formulation requirements resulting in the use of preservatives and / or of inactivated or dead probiotic microorganisms. The presence of these preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, isopropanol, or compounds of the paraben family, proves to be necessary to prevent the contamination of cosmetic or dermatological compositions by microorganisms, bacteria or yeast, undesirable , the presence of which may affect or even deteriorate the organoleptic and / or cosmetic properties of these compositions and make them unsuitable for the use intended for them.

These agents therefore generally have a bactericidal activity and their implementation is detrimental to the use of live probiotic microorganisms. Moreover, the maintenance of the viability of the probiotic microorganisms during the preparation of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions generates strong constraints as to the accessible formulations.

Thus, it can not be envisaged to subject these formulations to high temperatures, especially higher than 25 ° C, or shear forces or pressures necessary, for example, to a good homogeneity of these preparations, but which would be non-uniform. consistent with maintaining this viability. Finally, during the implementation of live microorganisms, it is necessary to be able to ensure the user a constant quality of the product over time, during its use and its conservation, and therefore of ensure that the amount of probiotic microorganisms used in the initial formulation remains stable, or varies in acceptable proportions, not likely to substantially affect the cosmetic or dermatological qualities of these compositions.

FR 2 913 337 teaches a partial solution to these various problems by proposing the use of inactivated microorganisms, in the form of a lyophilizate, introduced extemporaneously into the cosmetic composition to be used. This type of extemporaneous formulation is often deemed burdensome by the user in that it requires preparing the composition only at the time of use. Such a constraint makes it necessary to be able to have suitable conditions for the realization of the composition, so that it can not be used at will by the user. In addition, the extemporaneous preparation of cosmetic compositions by a user, not necessarily accustomed to galenic formulation techniques, can not ensure a consistent and consistent quality of these preparations and to obtain regularly the desired cosmetic or dermatological properties.

There remains therefore a need for formulations comprising live probiotic microorganisms and ensuring the maintenance of the viability of these microorganisms for periods of time compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological use.

There is still a need for cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising live probiotic microorganisms whose preparation is simple, easy and allows the maintenance of their viability. There is still a need for cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising live probiotic microorganisms whose use and handling are simple and easy. There is still a need for cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising live probiotic microorganisms and the amount of which is formulated initially remains stable over time. There is still a need for cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising live probiotic microorganisms which are devoid of preserving agents and whose organoleptic, dermatological or cosmetic properties can not be substantially affected or deteriorated by undesirable microbial contaminations. The present invention aims to satisfy these needs.

Thus, according to one of these aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the composition being of the water-in-oil emulsion type, and containing an effective amount of at least one active living probiotic microorganism, the said microorganism (s) being present in the aqueous phase and comprising from 0 to 0.001% by weight of preserving agent relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention is devoid of preservatives. For the purposes of the invention, the term "preservative agent" is intended to mean all the agents usually used in galenic formulation, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, whose function is to kill the microorganisms or to prevent their proliferation and survival.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that a continuous oil-phase composition with a dispersed aqueous phase, namely a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion, advantageously makes it possible to stably preserve live probiotic microorganisms. over a prolonged period of time, particularly extending from several tens of days to several months. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous phase" is intended to mean a phase comprising water, all of the water-soluble or hydrophilic ingredients used for the formulation of the composition, and the probiotic microorganisms. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil, and all fat-soluble or lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "living" is intended to mean a microorganism having the capacity to reproduce when it is placed in an environment favorable to this reproduction.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "active" is intended to mean a microorganism capable of being influenced by its environment and of influencing its environment through the activation or inhibition of its pathways. metabolic, as opposed to "inactive" or "dormant" microorganisms, for example obtained by lyophilization, which can not influence their environment and which undergo little or no influence of the latter. A microorganism in a "dormant state" can become active again. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "effective amount" means the minimum amount, sufficient and necessary, to obtain the desired effect, namely in the context of the present invention the beneficial properties of live probiotic microorganisms for a given indication. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may have an average internal temperature ranging from 4 ° C. to 25 ° C., preferably from 4 ° C. to 16 ° C., and in particular from 4 ° C. to 8 ° C. vs. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the said probiotic microorganism (s), at least one non-pathogenic, if appropriate live and active, accessory microorganism. .

For the purposes of the invention, the term "non-pathogenic accessory microorganism" means a microorganism distinct from the probiotic microorganism (s) used in the composition and not capable of exerting, under normal and healthy physiological conditions, a deleterious in respect of the individual receiving the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one emulsifying agent. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention is advantageously formulated for the topical route.

According to another of these aspects, the present invention relates to a packaging article comprising at least one hermetic container containing at least one composition according to the invention and means for dispensing at least a portion of said composition, said means allowing dispensing said portion of the composition without contacting the remainder of the composition contained in said container with the environment external to the contents of said container. According to another of these aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratinous substances of an individual comprising at least one step of topical administration on at least one keratin material of said individual of at least one layer. of a composition according to the invention.

A process or a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to provide the keratin materials with an improved cosmetic and / or care effect. For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratinous material" is intended to mean the skin, the mucous membranes such as the lips as well as the hair and the nails. Skin refers to all of the body's skin, including the scalp.

According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition may be applied to the skin, in particular the face, the cleavage, the scalp, the lips, the hair and the nails. Still more preferably, a method of the invention comprises the topical application to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and the décolleté, of at least one layer of a composition of the invention.

Advantageously, a method or a composition according to the invention allows an improved interaction between said individual and at least one active living probiotic microorganism. Advantageously, this improved interaction results in a positive modulation of the immune system, and a strengthening of the immunity of keratinous substances, and more particularly of the skin. Advantageously, this improved interaction makes it possible to reduce the sensitivity of sensitive or irritable skin, and in particular to prevent and / or reduce their irritation. The present invention advantageously allows the provision of compositions comprising high levels of live active probiotic microorganisms, while maintaining over time satisfactory organoleptic, cosmetic or dermatological properties. According to another advantage, the invention allows the provision of compositions comprising live active probiotic microorganisms that do not require an extemporaneous preparation. According to yet another advantage, the invention allows the provision of multidose compositions comprising active living probiotic microorganisms and whose microbiological qualities can be stably maintained over time. For the purposes of the invention, the term "microbiological qualities" of a composition means microbiological characteristics, namely the presence of an effective and constant content of probiotic microorganisms, and optionally additional microorganisms, and the absence thereof. or the presence of undetectable or non-deleterious levels of undesirable microorganisms. For the purposes of the invention, the term "undesirable microorganisms" means microorganisms not initially present in the formulation of a composition of the invention. According to another advantage, the invention allows the provision of compositions comprising live active probiotic microorganisms making it possible to obtain in a maximum manner the beneficial properties of these microorganisms.

According to another advantage, the invention allows the provision of compositions providing the beneficial effects of active living probiotic microorganisms and the presence of reduced content, or even the absence of preservatives.

Viability and stability A composition in accordance with the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain the viability of active living probiotic microorganisms formulated within a cosmetic or dermatological composition over a period of time compatible with its use, namely its provision for a user and its use by this user.

Also, a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to ensure the stable maintenance of the amount of living active probiotic microorganisms introduced initially during the formulation of the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stable amount of microorganisms" means an amount which remains substantially constant, or which varies in proportions which do not substantially modify the quality and the cosmetic or dermatological properties of the composition. The viability and the stability in number of living probiotic microorganisms advantageously result from their formulation in a dispersed aqueous phase of a composition of the invention formulated in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

According to one embodiment, the viability and number stability of the probiotic microorganisms can be advantageously obtained by preserving the composition under conditions such that its internal temperature varies from 4 ° C. to 25 ° C., preferably from 4 ° C. to 16 ° C, and in particular 4 ° C to 8 ° C. In particular, a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain the viability of living probiotic microorganisms formulated within a cosmetic or dermatological composition for at least 5 days, advantageously at least 10 days, in particular 15 days, more particularly during 20 days. days, or even up to a month, even better until two months, and even better until three months.

The viability and the stability in number of active living probiotic microorganisms contained in a composition of the invention are advantageously maintained over a period of time varying from at least 5 days to at least 4 months, preferably at least 10 days to at least 2 months, and in particular at least 15 days to at least 30 days. According to another embodiment, the viability and the stability in number of probiotic microorganisms of a composition of the invention may advantageously be obtained by preserving the composition in a hermetic container, particularly as described below. The viability and the number-stability of the probiotic microorganisms contained in a composition of the invention can be evaluated by means of the protocol described hereinafter.

More specifically, after formulating and preparing a composition of the invention, it can be stored at room temperature, for example 25 ° C, or at low temperature, for example 4 ° C. At different time intervals, after the preparation of the composition, for example at time 0, 10 days, 30 days or 60 days after the preparation and storage of the composition, different samples are taken and then cultured under conditions conducive to the growth and proliferation of probiotic microorganisms. The culture conditions are those generally used in microbiology, namely an agar culture, in a dry atmosphere at 37 ° C. After 48 to 72 hours of culture, the boxes are examined and the number of colonies recorded. The results are then reported in cfu per milliliter or gram of composition. Advantageously, the amount of active living probiotic microorganisms contained in a composition of the invention stored for 30 days at 4 ° C. does not decrease by more than 4 log, and preferably not more than 3 log, and more preferably not more of 2 log relative to the initial amount of live active probiotic microorganisms introduced into the composition. The evaluation of the variation of the amount of probiotic microorganisms in a composition of the invention can be carried out by one of the following protocols. At the end of the preparation of the composition, and a given storage time, for example at least seven days, at room temperature, about 25 ° C, or in a refrigerated atmosphere, for example at 4 ° C, a The sample of the composition is taken in order to count the living active microorganisms present in relation to the quantity initially introduced. The sample taken is subjected to successive dilutions and cultured, in accordance with the usual practice in the field, then is enumerated, either automatically or manually. Automated enumeration is performed by means of a device that automatically detects the presence of microorganisms. The results obtained are semi-quantitative and are expressed as the number of microorganisms per gram of composition. Manual counting is performed after culture of successive dilutions of the sample taken, on Petri dish agar, by colony counting visually or by image analysis. The detection limit of the manual counting method is 200 microorganisms / g of composition. The microbio logical result obtained can be read in log reduction log Dt according to the following formula: Dt = log ([microorganism], n ° cä1äm / [microorganism] t) = (t / T) * log (2), in which [ microorganism], wherein "1um" refers to the amount of microorganisms per gram of composition at time 0, and [microorganism] t refers to the amount of microorganisms in the composition at time t, t indicates elapsed time, and T represents period half-life between each division by two of the population.

Microorganisms For the purposes of the present invention, the term "probiotic microorganism" means a living microorganism which, when ingested in an adequate amount, has a positive effect on the health of its host ("Joint FAO / WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Milk Powder with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001 "), which can in particular improve intestinal microbial balance. According to one embodiment, a probiotic microorganism according to the invention may be used in an isolated or purified form, that is to say not mixed with a compound or compounds likely to be thereof. partner (s) in his home environment.

A microorganism can be implemented in different forms, such as a solution, a powder, or a concentrate. According to one embodiment, a probiotic microorganism that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from Lactobacillus sp., Bifidobacterium sp., Cocci, yeasts, sporulated bacteria, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a microorganism that is suitable for the invention is preferentially chosen from: ascomycetes: in particular Saccharomyces, in particular S. cerevisiae or S. boulardii, Yarrowia, in particular Y. Lipolitira, Kluyveromyces, Torulaspora, Schizosaccharomyces pombe, Debaromyces, Candida, Pichia, Aspergillus, in particular K. lactis and Penicillium, - spore-forming bacteria: in particular Bacillus sp., In particular B. cereus var toyo or B. subtilis, B. coagulons, B. licheniformis, Escherichia sp., In particular E. coli strain nissle, Propionibacterium sp., in particular P. freudenreichii, Bacteroides sp., Fusobacterium sp., and Weissella sp., - Cocci: in particular Melissococcus sp., Staphylococcus sp., in particular S. carnosus or S. xylosus, Peptostrepococcus sp. , Pediococcus sp., In particular P. acidilactici, Micrococcus sp., In particular M. luteis, Leuconostoc sp., In particular L. mesenteroides subsp. Dextranicum, Aerococcus sp., Oenococcus sp., Enterococcus sp., In particular E. faecalis or E. faecium, Lactococcus sp., In particular L. lactis subsp lactis or L. cremoris, Sporolactobacillus sp., In particular S. inulinus, and Streptococcus sp., In particular S. salivarius subsp. thermophilus or S. thermophilus; Lactobacillus species: in particular L. paracasei, L. acidophilus, L. amylovorus, L. casei, L. rhamnosus, L. brevis, L. crispatus, L. delbrueckii subsp. lactis, L. bulgaricus, L. fermentum, L. helveticus, L. gallinarum, L. gasseri, L. johnsonii, L. plantarum, L. reuteri, L. salivarius, L. alimentarius, L. curvatus, L. casei subsp . casei, L. sake, and - bifidobacteria or Bifidobacterium species: B. adolescentis, B. animalis, B. bifidum, B. breve, B. lactis, B. longum, B. infantis, B. pseudocatenulatum, - and mixtures thereof . More particularly, it may be a probiotic microorganism selected from Lactobacillus sp., Sporolactobacillus sp., Enterococcus sp., Lactococcus sp., Bacillus sp., Streptococcus sp., Pediococcus sp., Leuconostoc sp. Micrococcus sp., Or Bififobacterium sp., And in particular selected from Lactobacillus sp., Bifidobacterium sp., Micrococcus sp., And mixtures thereof. Even more particularly, a probiotic microorganism that is suitable for the invention is chosen from Lactobacillus sp., Bifidobacterium sp., And mixtures thereof. Examples of probiotic microorganisms that are suitable for the invention include Bifidobacterium adolescentis, B. animalis, B. bifidum, B. breve, B. lactis, B. longum, B. infantis, B. pseudocatenulatum, Lactobacillus acidophilus NCFB 1748, L. paracasei, L. amylovorus, L. casei (Shirota), L. rhamnosus strain GG, L. brevis, L. crispatus, L. bulgaricus, L. delbrueckii subsp. lactis, L. fermentum, L. helveticus, L. gallinarum, L. gasseri, L. johnsonii CNCM I-1225, L. plantarum, L. reuteri, L. salivarius, L. alimentarius, L. curvatus, L. casei subsp. . Casei, L. sake, Enterococcus faecalis, E. faecium, Lactococcus lactis, L. lactis subsp lactis, L. lactis subsp cremoris, Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp dextranicum, Microccus luteis, Pediococcus acidilactici, Sporolactobacillus inulinus, Streptococcus salvarius subsp. thermophilus, S. thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, S. xylosus, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, S. boulardii, Bacillus cereus var toyo, B. cereus var subtilis, B. coagulans, B. licheniformis, Escherichia coli strain nissle, Propionibacterium freudenreichii, and mixtures thereof .

As more specific examples of probiotic microorganisms that are suitable for the invention, it is advantageous to mention Bifidobacterium bifidum, B. infantis, B. longum, Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. alimentarius, L. casei subsp. casei, L. casei shirota, L. paracasei, L. curvatus, L. delbruckii subsp. lactis, L. gasseri, L. johnsonii, L. reuteri, L. rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), L. sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, S. xylosus, Microccus luteis, and mixtures thereof. More particularly probiotic microorganisms that are suitable for the invention include Lactobacillus johnsonii or acidophilus, L. reuteri, L. rhamnosus, L. paracasei, L. casei, L. alimentarius, L. curvatus, L. delbruckii subsp. lactis, L. gasseri, L. sake, Bifidobacterium bifidum, B. breve, B. longum, B. animalis, B. lactis, B. infantis, B. adolescentis, B. pseudocatenulatum, Microccus luteis, and mixtures thereof. The species which are particularly suitable for the invention are Lactobacillus johnsonii, L. paracasei and Bifidobacterium adolescentis, B. longum respectively deposited according to the Budapest Treaty with the Institut Pasteur (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15). 30/06/92, 12/01/99, 15/04/99 and 15/04/99 under the following designations CNCM I-1225, CNCM I-2116, CNCM I-2168 and CNCM I-2170, and the genus Bifidobacterium lactis (Bb 12) (ATCC27536) or Bifidobacterium longum (BB536). The strain of Bifidobacterium lactis (ATCC27536) can be obtained from Hansen (Hansen AIS Chr., 10-12 Boege Alle, PO Box 407, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark). Advantageously, a microorganism that is suitable for the invention may be a probiotic microorganism with lactic acid, which produces lactic acid by fermentation of the sugar.

According to a preferred embodiment, a probiotic microorganism that is suitable for the invention, for example topically, may in particular be a microorganism of the genus Lactobacillus sp. Preferably, a microorganism of the genus Lactobacillus sp. suitable for the invention may be chosen from Lactobacillus johnsonii, L. acidophilus, L. reuteri, L. paracasei, L. casei, L. rhamnosus, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, a microorganism that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from Lactobacillus paracasei, L. johnsonii, L. acidophilus, L. rhamnosus, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, a microorganism suitable for the invention may be a Lactobacillus paracasei. According to another preferred embodiment, a microorganism that is suitable for the invention may in particular be the strain Lactobacillus paracasei ST11 deposited according to the Budapest Treaty at the Institut Pasteur (28 rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) on 30/06/92 under the designation CNCM I-2116. According to one embodiment, a probiotic microorganism that is suitable for the invention can be used topically. The topical route advantageously makes it possible to obtain a local action with regard to the desired effect. In general, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 10 'to 1015 cfu of microorganisms per gram of composition (cfu / g), in particular from 103 to 1012 cfu / g, in particular from 104 to 1010 cfu / g, and more particularly from 105 to 108 cfu live active probiotic microorganisms per gram of composition. By "cfu" is meant "unit forming a colony". This is the standard unit of measurement used to quantify live microorganisms. According to one embodiment of the invention, a probiotic microorganism that is suitable for the invention may be associated with at least one non-pathogenic, accessory microorganism. According to a preferred embodiment, a non-pathogenic accessory microorganism may also be an active living microorganism. In particular, an auxiliary microorganism that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from non-pathogenic microorganisms of the cutaneous flora, and in particular chosen from Staphylococcus sp., Corynobacterium sp., Probionobacter sp., Micrococcus sp., Streptococcus sp., Brevibacterium sp., and mixtures thereof. By way of illustration of non-pathogenic accessory microorganisms of the cutaneous flora, there may be mentioned Staphylococcus epidermis, S. haemolyticus, S. homonis, S. similans; Lipophilic Corynobacterium, C. jeikeium, C. urealyticum, C. minutissimum; Propionobacter granulosum, P. avidum; Micrococcus luteus, M varions; Streptococcus A, C and G; Brevibacterium; and their mixtures. A composition of the invention may comprise from 102 to 105 cfu / g, in particular from 103 to 104 cfu / g of ancillary microorganisms, especially living active, per gram of composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium A probiotic microorganism suitable for the invention is formulated in a composition capable of maintaining its viability and stability in quantity over time, and constituting a physiologically acceptable medium for the user intended to receive this composition. A composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) consisting of a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed. The compositions according to the invention may advantageously have a liquid, semi-liquid, soft, semi-solid or solid consistency. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods provided that they do not affect the viability and stability of the probiotic microorganisms. A composition according to the invention may advantageously be formulated in any dosage form which may comprise a water-in-oil emulsion such as, for example and without limitation, a cream, a gel, a mask or a lotion. The galenic forms are suitable The invention may also impregnate nonwoven carriers, such as wipes, patches, or pads. The composition may be a skin care product, especially the face or body, a conditioner, a hair mask, a nail care product.

The composition is preferably a skin care composition, in particular dedicated to the skin of the face, décolleté, arms, or thighs.

Oily phase A cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least one oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" is intended to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the composition. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 ° to 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. An oil suitable for the invention may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. An oil suitable for the invention may advantageously be selected from mineral hydrocarbon oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil which is suitable for the invention may, in addition, optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester or ether groups. and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups. As examples of oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, of squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RICOOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as PARLEAM® oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; , oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile silicone polymers (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and butyltrisiloxane; and ethyltrisiloxane polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, the alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - and their mixtures. Advantageously, according to a preferred embodiment, an oily phase according to the invention may comprise an oil chosen from silicone oils, vegetable oils, synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.

An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in oil, other fatty substances. Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid; and oleic acid; a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as waxes polyethylene, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - and their mixtures. An oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 90% by weight, in particular from 10% to 80% by weight, in particular from 20% to 80%, or even 25% by weight. at 75% by weight, and more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water. According to one embodiment, an aqueous phase of a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one water-soluble organic solvent of the polyol type. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble organic solvent" is intended to mean any compound which is liquid at ambient temperature and which is miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure). . Water-soluble solvents which are suitable for the invention are naturally excluded from compounds whose use would be detrimental to the maintenance of the viability of active living probiotic microorganisms. The water-soluble organic solvents which are suitable for the invention may be chosen, in particular, from C 2 to C 6 and preferably C 3 to C 6 hydrocarbon compounds, and comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 3 to 5 hydroxyl groups, and their mixtures. Among the water-soluble organic solvents that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Glycerol, sorbitol, and their mixtures. Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvents are chosen from glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular propylene glycol, or glycerol. The aqueous phase may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, in particular from 25% to 75% by weight, and more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The water-soluble organic solvent may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Emulsion A water-in-oil emulsion suitable for a composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least one emulsifying agent. An emulsifying agent that is suitable for the invention may, in particular, be chosen from silicone emulsifiers, fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols, polymers of the fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol type, and polyolefins with ) polar (s), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, an emulsifying agent is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of active material ranging, for example, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. to 7% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicone emulsifier According to a preferred embodiment, an emulsifying agent that is suitable for the invention is chosen from silicone emulsifiers. The term "silicone emulsifier" means a silicone compound containing a hydrophilic chain and capable of emulsifying an aqueous phase in a fatty phase. This silicone emulsifier may be chosen especially from emulsifying silicone elastomers, alkyldimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyols, and mixtures thereof.

Emulsifying silicone elastomer By "silicone elastomer" is meant a partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane, a flexible and deformable material having viscoelastic properties. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

The term "emulsifying silicone elastomer" is understood to mean a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, this chain possibly being in particular oxyalkylenated or glycerolated. A silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane. The emulsifying silicone elastomer can therefore be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and / or a glycerolated chain. The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain may be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon (Al), and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (B1), especially in the presence of a catalyst (Cl), in particular platinum catalyst, as described for example in US-A-5,236,986 and US-A-5,412,004.

The compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (Al) with the compound (Bl) in the presence of the catalyst (Cl). The compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated compound comprising at least two vinyl groups in the α-w position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of the compound (Al). The compound (B1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations. The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (Al) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethyl-hydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers. The compound (Cl) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum supported . The catalyst (Cl) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as a clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (Al). ) and (Bl). In particular, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, in the presence of platinum catalyst. The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain used according to the invention is preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain. In addition, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is preferably transported in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is often in the form of non-spherical particles. Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are described in US Pat. No. 5,236,986, US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and US Pat. No. 5,837,793 and US Pat. No. 5,811,487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

As silicone elastomers comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated chain, those marketed by Shin Etsu under the names: KSG-21 (active ingredient 27%) INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-20 (95% active ingredient, INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), - KSG-30 (100% active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), 10 -KSG-3 1 (at 25% active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (at 25% active matter) INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-33 (20% active ingredient), 15 -KSG-210 (27% active ingredient) INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer), - KSG-310: Polyoxyethylenesiloxane crosslinked lauryl modified in mineral oil (mineral oil) - KSG-330, 20 -KS G-340, - X-226146 (at 32% active ingredient. INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), or those marketed by Dow Corning under the names: DC9010 (9% active ingredient INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone 25 crosspolymer) - DC9011 11% in active matter). These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the silicone elastomer particles. KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-30 10/15 crosspolymer) is preferably used which is about 27% active material of silicone elastomer in silicone oil.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerolated chain. The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain may be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen (A2) and a polyglycerolated compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups ( B2), especially in the presence of catalyst (C2), in particular platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2). The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B2). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl,; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups. The compound (A2) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

The compound (B2) can be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'2): CmH2m 1-0- [Gly] R1 CmH2m_1 (B'2) in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferentially from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 20, even more preferably from 2 to 10, and even more preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; Gly means: -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-O- or -CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O-

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4. It is advantageous that the compound (A2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum supported . The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as a clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A2) and (B2).

The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain used according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one glycerolated chain is often in the form of non-spherical particles. Such elastomers are described in particular in document WO-A-2004/024798. Silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerolated chain may be those sold by Shin Etsu under the names: KSG-710 (20-30% active ingredient in mineral oil) INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), - KSG-810, - KSG-820, - KSG-830, - KSG-840.

Alyldimethicone copolyols and dimethicone copolyols The silicone emulsifier may also be chosen from alkyldimethicone copolyols and dimethicone copolyols. Examples of alkyldimethicone copolyols that may be used are those containing a C10-C22 alkyl group, such as lauryldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning, cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name ABIL EM. 90 by the Goldschmidt Company or as the 4 polyglyceryl isostearate / cetyldimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt, oleyldimethicone copoylol such as that sold under the name KF-6026 by the company Shin -Etsu, stearyldimethicone copolyol such as that sold under the name X-22-904 by the Shin-Etsu Company. It is preferably cetyldimethicone copolyol. As dimethicone copolyols, it is possible to use, for example, dimethicone copolyols containing oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups, such as that comprising 18 oxyethylenated groups and 18 oxypropylene groups, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names Dow Corning 3225 C and Dow Corning 5225 C (INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone) by Dow Corning, and that comprising 14 oxyethylenated groups and 14 oxypropylene groups such as the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) marketed under the name Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane). It is also possible to use dimethicone copolyols containing only oxyethylenated groups, such as the products sold under the trade names KF-6015 or KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone) by the company Shin-Etsu.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an alkyl dimethicone copolyol having an alkyl radical containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90, is used as silicone emulsifier. by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclopentasiloxane (85/15) sold under the name Abil EM-97 by the company Goldschmidt; lauryl dimethicone copolyol and for example the mixture of about 91% lauryl dimethicone copolyol and about 9% isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Q2-5200 by Dow Corning, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols According to another embodiment, an emulsifier suitable for the invention may be chosen from fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols. The term "fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols" according to the invention means esters of fatty acids or of fatty acid and polyol polymers in which the fatty acid or the fatty acid polymer comprises a C6-C22 alkyl chain, preferably C16-C20, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid). In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. Examples of C16-C20 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer is poly12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof are used.

By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula in which the degree of condensation n is from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol). , di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, oligoglycerols).

Even more preferentially, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles' or units) of poltol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol. According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (C10), and polyol. As examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan GI34® by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI® denomination by Cognis; polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA® by the Nihon emulsion company; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Unigema, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred fatty acid and polyglycerol esters according to the invention include: polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan GI34® by Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl 4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name Isolan GPS® by Goldschmidt, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690® by the company Unigema, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and polyol ester according to the invention is an ester of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, still more preferably from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably isostearic acid. Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 and 40%, preferably between 40 and 70%.

Such esters of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol are described in application US 2005/0031580. According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is an ester of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester is an ester of polyhydroxystearic acid and dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 polyglycerol units. (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid) and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms ( preferably isostearic acid). As a preferred example of a polyhydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol acid ester, mention may be made of 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate of formula D ## STR1 ## where PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid and IS denotes isostearic acid. Such a compound is prepared according to the application US2005 / 0031580 and sold under the name ISOLAN GPS® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT (DEGUSSA). Even more preferably, the 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS® by Goldschmidt will be used in the composition of the invention. Polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type As an emulsifying agent that can be used in the The invention for obtaining a W / O emulsion includes polymers of the polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester type having water-in-oil emulsifying properties. The fatty acid ester of said polymer is preferably polyhydroxylated. In particular, this polymer is a block polymer, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly (hydroxylated ester) sequences and polyethylene glycol sequences. The fatty acid ester of said emulsifying polymer as defined above generally has a chain having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The esters may especially be chosen from oleates, palmitates or stearates.

The polyethylene glycol sequences of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. An emulsifying agent that is particularly suitable for producing the compositions of the invention is the polyethylene glycol dihydroxystearate 30 OE sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by the company ICI.

Polyolefins with Polar Part (s) The polyolefins with polar part (s) that can be used in the present invention are already known in other fields and are for example described in documents US-A-5,129,972 and US Pat. A-4,919,179, as stabilizers of explosive emulsions and in US-A-5,518,517 and US-A-5,858,055 as stabilizers of fertilizer compositions. The polyolefins with a polar portion (s) that may be used in the compositions of the invention may comprise a polyolefinic apolar part and at least one polar part. They may have a block or comb type structure. The polyolefinic apolar portion comprises at least 40 carbon atoms and in particular from 60 to 700 carbon atoms. This polyolefin apolar part may be chosen from oligomers, polymers and / or copolymers of C2 to C20 monomers, and especially of ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, isobutene, 1-pentene, 2 -methyl-1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-undecene, 1-dodecene, 1-tridecene , 1-tetradecene, 1-pentadecene, 1-hexadecene, 1-heptadecene and 1-octadecene. These polyolefins can be hydrogenated or not. Furthermore, the polyolefins with polar part (s) used in the compositions of the invention, for example in the form of emulsions, comprise at least one polar part. This polar part is advantageously present to give them amphiphilic properties. Thus, these polyolefins with polar portion (s) can lower the interfacial tension (water / oil) by at least 10 mN / m when present at a concentration of 0.01% by weight with respect to total weight of the oily phase. For example, the succinic-terminated polyolefin sold under the name Lubrizol 2724® by Lubrizol, at a concentration of 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, lowers the interfacial tension by 15 mN / m 2. the interface of an aqueous phase consisting of a 1% aqueous solution of MgSO4, and an oily phase comprising a mixture of oils (isohexadecane / hydrogenated polyisobutene / volatile silicone in an 8/6/4 ratio), the ratio of the aqueous phase and the oily phase being equal to 1. The polar part of the polyolefins with polar part (s) of the invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric. It may for example consist of polyalkylene glycols, polyalkyleneimines, acids or dicarboxylic acids, their anhydrides or their derivatives such as their esters, their amides and their salts. The polyolefins with polar (s) carboxylic acid (s) may for example be derived from the reaction between a polyolefin and at least one carboxylic acid or anhydride, optionally totally or partially salified, chosen from the group comprising the acid or the succinic anhydride, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid (or methyl maleic acid), mesaconic acid (or methyl fumaric acid), aconitic acid , their ester or amide derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the polar part of the polyolefin may be chosen from the group comprising polyoxyethylene, succinic acid or anhydride, esters or amides of succinic acid or anhydride, metal salts. alkali or alkaline earth metal or organic salts of the succinic acid or anhydride, or the partial salts of the monoesters or monoamides of the succinic acid or anhydride.

The polyolefins with polar part (s) polyoxyethylene (s) may for example be chosen from polyisoprene-polyoxyethylene diblock polymers, poly (ethylene-co-propylene) -polyoxyethylene polymers and mixtures thereof. These polymers are described in particular in the publication by Allgaier et al., Macromolecules, 1997, vol. 30, p.1582-1586.

The polyolefins having a polar portion (s) of acid or succinic anhydride may be chosen in particular from the polyolefin derivatives of succinic acid or anhydride described in patents US-A-4,234,435 and US-A-4,708,753, US-A. -5,129,972, US-4,931,110, GB-A-2,156,799, US-A-4,877,756 and US-A-4,919,179. The polyolefin portion may consist for example of polyisobutylene, hydrogenated or not, with a molecular weight ranging from 400 to 5000 g / mol. In the succinically terminated polyisobutylene thus obtained, the succinic moiety may be optionally modified, i.e., esterified, amidated, or salt form. It may be modified with alcohols, amines, alkanolamines or polyols, or may be in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or organic base salts such as the diethanolamine and tethanolamine salts, of diethylethanolamine. The esterified or amidified succinic terminated polyolefins are reaction products of (a) a succinic terminated polyolefin, and (b) an amine or an alcohol, to form an amide or an ester. The term "amine" used herein includes all types of amines including alkanolamines. It may be for example primary, secondary or tertiary mono-amines, these amines may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic, heterocyclic, saturated or unsaturated. As an example of alkanolamines, there may be mentioned diethylethanolamine, and triethanolamine.

In addition, the alcohols may be mono- or poly-alcohols. Monoalcohols include primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic alcohols, and phenols. The polyalcohols may be, for example, chosen from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, aromatic and heterocyclic polyalcohols.

Examples of polyalcohol include glycerol. The modified succinic terminated polyolefins (esterified or amidated) and their method of preparation are described in particular in US-A-4,708,753. Esterified succinic terminated polyolefins are preferably used. As succinically terminated polyolefins, there may be mentioned in particular polyisobutylenes with a modified succinic terminus, especially esterified, for example with diethanolamine, and their salts, especially the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol® 5603 by Lubrizol. Another example of a polyolefin with a polar part that can be used in the invention is the product of the reaction of maleic anhydride with polyisobutylene, such as the products sold under the names Glissopal® (Glissopal® 2300, 1300 and 1000) (INCI name polyisobutene) by BASF. The polyolefin with a particularly preferred polar portion (s) is a reaction product of polyisobutenyl succinic anhydride with diethylethanolamine, thereby forming a diethylethanolamine salt of 2- (N, N-diethyl) aminoethyl polybutene succinate. This product is sold for example under the name Lubrizol®5603 by the company Lubrizol, and can be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a polyisobutenyl group, in particular with a molecular weight of 1000 g / mol. This product is INCI hydroxyethyldiethonium polyisobutenyl triethylaminosuccinate (and) diethyl ethanolamine Another polar polyolefin (s) particularly contemplated is a polyisobutenyl succinate ester of diethanolaminoethyl and triethanolamine which is sold, for example, under Chemccinaté 2000 denomination by the company Chemron As polyolefin with polar part (s), it is also possible to use a glyceryl polyisobutenyl succinate ester, in particular that sold under the name Chemccinaté 1000 AF by the company Chemron.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight of polyolefin (s). in part (s) polar (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. The polyolefins with polar part (s) according to the invention may for example be used as an additive in an emulsion, and in this case be solubilized in the oily phase thereof. They can also be used as an emulsifier and allow the formation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions as described in application FR 2 811 565.

Aqueous Gelling Agent According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous gelling agent. An aqueous gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from polysaccharide polymers, and mixtures thereof. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polysaccharide polymer" is intended to denote any carbohydrate macromolecule formed by the linking of a large number of elementary sugars, for example xylose, glucose, galactose, rhamnose, mannose, fucose, arabinose and their respective acids. The polysaccharide polymers according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers having a molecular weight ranging from 10 to 250 kDa. In particular, polysaccharide polymers suitable for the invention may be mentioned as pectin; guar gum; cellulose; dextrin; maltodextrin; starch; the gum of Tara; the carob gum; inulin; acacia gum; gum arabic; fucose-rich polymers, such as Fucogel; carrageenans; Konjac gum; xanthan gum; dextran; chitosan; gum tragacanth; ghatti gum; Karaya gum; tamarind gum; Agar-agar; alginate; Gellane's gum; and their mixtures. Xanthan gum, locust bean gum, guar gum, gellan gum, agar-agar, alginate, and mixtures thereof are preferably used. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of polysaccharide polymer (s), by relative to the total weight of said composition.

Charges According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition, at least one particulate filler selected from organic or inorganic fillers.

For the purpose of the invention, the fillers are distinct from the dyestuffs. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition; The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 atoms carbon, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearl ®, for example ), the polyurethane powders, in particular the crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. A filler suitable for the invention may be present in a composition of the invention in a proportion of 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a proportion of 0.5 to 4%, in particular from 1 to 3% and more particularly from 1.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adi uvant The compositions according to the invention may further comprise various adjuvants commonly used for the formulation of compositions applied orally or topically, such as sequestering agents, plasticizers, essential oils, emollients, moisturizers, trace elements , softeners, neutralizers, UV filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a composition according to the present invention is devoid of preserving agents. According to another embodiment, a compliant composition is devoid of bactericidal agents or antiseptic agents. A composition according to the invention may comprise bacteriostatic agents, but preferably is devoid of such agents. Dyestuff A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble, materials with an optical effect. specific, and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify a composition or the film resulting from the application of a composition by the topical route.

Additional active ingredient A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional active agent, in particular of the cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical type, for example plant extracts, in particular an extract of Prunus armeniaca, anti-UV agents, agents anti-aging / anti-wrinkle, such as anti-glycation agents, stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle relaxants , moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, anti-pollution and anti-radical agents, slimming agents, agents acting on the microcirculation, agents acting on the energetic metabolism of the cells, tensors, depigmenting or pro-pigmenting agents , desquamating agents, anti-acne agents or even anti-inflammatory / anti-irritant agents.

It pertains to the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the additional active agents, dyestuffs and adjuvants in a composition according to the invention, so as not to affect the properties desired for this, in particular with regard to the viability of active living microorganisms, their stability in quantity, and the route of administration considered.

Packaging article According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a packaging article comprising at least one hermetic container containing at least one composition according to the invention and means for dispensing at least a portion of said composition, said means allowing dispensing said portion of the composition without contacting the remainder of the composition contained in said container with the environment external to the contents of said container. A hermetic container according to the invention makes it possible to isolate the composition contained in the latter from the external environment, and in particular to isolate the composition from contamination by external gases, and in particular air, but also from contamination by external microorganisms, such as bacteria or fungi, which can be introduced during the use of the composition.

An airtight container that is suitable for the invention makes it possible to avoid any contamination of the composition by the external environment, and especially by outside air and other microorganisms external to the contents of the container during its storage.

By "external environment" is meant the entire space immediately to the container and distinct from that constituting its internal volume. A container according to the invention makes it possible to keep a composition of the invention under vacuum or under an inert atmosphere, for example of the nitrogen or argon type. Advantageously, a hermetic container according to the invention makes it possible to avoid contamination of the composition of the invention by undesirable microorganisms, or even its deterioration by oxidation phenomena, during the distribution of the composition. The dispensing means associated with a container of the invention allow the dispensing and application of at least a portion of a composition of the invention contained in the container while preventing any contamination of the remaining composition in the container by the external environment to the contents of the container, including air or undesirable microorganisms. The dispensing means attached to a container of the invention make it possible to maintain the hermetic nature of the latter, in particular during the dispensing of the composition. Advantageously, a packaging article that is suitable for the invention can be adapted to the storage of a composition of the invention in liquid, semi-liquid or pasty form. A packaging article that is suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a reservoir with flexible walls, and therefore of variable volume, containing the composition to be dispensed, the reservoir being in communication with a hand pump, surmounted by a push button equipped with a dispensing orifice, operable by the user. To ensure a lack of contamination between the stored product and the ambient air, the pump equipping such a packaging item is a pump without air intake, thus avoiding the absence of any return of air into the tank after distribution. a dose of composition.

According to one embodiment, such a packaging article may further be provided with a rigid enclosure enclosing the flexible-walled container. This enclosure may be made of a flexible material or not. By way of example of a packaging article that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the bottles described in EP 1 510 472, EP 1 262 241 or EP 1 022 062. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be packaged in a packaging article comprising at least one or a plurality of container (s) containing a single-use dose of composition according to the invention.

Method According to one embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous substances of an individual comprising at least one stage of topical administration on at least one keratin material of said individual of at least one layer of a composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, a method of the invention may comprise at least one step consisting of disposing a composition of the invention under conditions that are suitable for giving it an average internal temperature ranging from 4 ° C. to 25 ° C., preferably from 4 ° C to 16 ° C, and in particular from 4 ° C to 8 ° C. According to one embodiment, the step of disposing a composition of the invention under conditions conducive to imparting an average internal temperature ranging from 4 ° C to 5 ° C can be performed before the first topical application of said composition on keratin materials. According to yet another preferred embodiment, the step of disposing a composition of the invention under conditions conducive to imparting an average internal temperature ranging from 4 ° C to 25 ° C can be advantageously performed after the first application by topical route of said composition on keratin materials. According to another embodiment, a method of the invention may further comprise at least one step of disposing a composition of the invention in a packaging article comprising at least one hermetic container intended to receive said composition and containing means dispensing at least a portion of said composition, said means for dispensing said portion of the composition are brought into contact with the remainder of the composition contained in said container with the environment external to the contents of said container. Advantageously, such a container containing a composition of the invention can allow the preservation thereof at room temperature.

According to one embodiment, the keratin materials more particularly considered for the present invention may be the skin of the face and décolleté, the scalp, the lips, the skin of the hands and feet, and the nails. According to an advantageous embodiment, a method of the invention may comprise a step of applying a composition according to the invention to the skin of the body, in particular the skin of the face or décollete, on the scalp, on the skin, lips, on the hair, and on the nails. Still more preferably, a method of the invention comprises the topical application to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and décolleté, of at least one layer of a composition of the invention.

According to another preferred embodiment, the keratin materials considered by the present invention may be more particularly the skin of the face, the skin of the neckline or the scalp. Advantageously, a method of the invention topically may comprise the application of a composition according to the invention, for example in the form of a mask, on keratin materials, especially on the skin of the face. Such an application can be carried out according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions. For example, it may consist of the application of creams on the skin or mucous membranes. A topical cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out daily, for example, for example for a single administration per day or twice a day administration, for example once in the morning and in the morning. times in the evening. A topical cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out over a period of time varying from one week to several weeks, or even several months, this period being able to be repeated after periods of non-treatment, for several months, even several years.

By way of example, the topical administration of a composition according to the invention may be repeated, for example, 2 to 3 times a day, or more, and generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods of interruption if necessary.

A method according to the invention may advantageously comprise the application of a composition of the invention in combination, simultaneously, sequentially or separately in time, with an additional cosmetic or dermatological composition, distinct from the composition of the invention. , and intended for the care or makeup of keratin materials.

Any additional cosmetic or dermatological composition may be suitable for the invention subject, of course, to the fact that its association with a composition of the invention does not affect the properties sought for the latter. The person skilled in the art knows how to appreciate on the basis of his knowledge the additional cosmetic or dermatological compositions that may be suitable.

According to one embodiment, this additional composition can be administered topically to the keratin materials. According to another embodiment, a method of the invention may comprise the application to the keratin materials of a composition of the invention in combination with a successive application, topically to said keratinous substances, of an additional composition. cosmetic or dermatological. The composition of the invention and the additional composition can be applied to one another according to a cosmetic gesture called "double gesture". According to one embodiment, a method according to the invention may comprise the application to keratin materials, as a first layer or "base layer" or "base coat", of a composition of the invention and, as second layer or "top layer" or "top coat", a layer of an additional composition as defined above. According to an alternative embodiment, the first layer may comprise the additional composition, and the second layer may comprise a composition of the invention.

According to one embodiment, a method of the invention may be dedicated to the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and more particularly to the care and / or makeup of sensitive or irritable skin.

In the following description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are percentages by weight and ranges of values in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper bounds. The ingredients are mixed, before they are shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The content and the nature of the ingredients used in the compositions of the invention are adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to substantially affect the properties required for the compositions of the invention. The following examples are presented for illustrative and not limiting of the invention.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Emulsion of water-in-oil type% by weight Microorganisms see Table I below Apricot almond oil 3 DC 556 COSMETIC Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (Dow Corning Graded Fluid from Dow Corning) 4 Mixture of cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane and of polydimethylsiloxane (6 cst) (24/76) (KSG 16 from Shin Etsu) 5 PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (Dow Corning Fluid 190 from Dow Corning) 20 Nylon-12 Powder (ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS from Arkema) 5 Glycerol 23 Propylene glycol 6 Water qs 100 Table I: Microorganisms tested Composition 1-a 1-b 1-c Microorganisms Lactobacillus Lactobacillus Micrococcus luteis rhamnosus paracasei Quantity 1.5.105 1.0.104 1.0.105 (in cfu / g Three compositions 1-a, 1-b and 1-c, differing from each other by the nature of the microorganism tested, are prepared according to the following protocol. The aqueous phase is added, with vigorous stirring, to the oily phase. The stirring is maintained until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained, comprising drops of microscopic size, and having a white, smooth and shiny appearance. The composition, before introduction of the microorganisms according to the protocol given below, is autoclaved for 20 min at 120 ° C. at 1 atm. After culturing, the microorganisms are centrifuged and washed, then resuspended in physiological saline to have a theoretical concentration of 108 cfu / ml. Inoculation of the composition is carried out on pots containing 100 ml of formula. 1 ml of bacterial suspension is introduced into each pot to give a theoretical concentration of approximately 106 cfu / g. It is mixed using a spatula so as to homogenize the bacteria in the formula. A count is then made during this inoculation to find the exact number of live seeds present per gram of product, at t0 as detailed previously in the description. The compositions thus obtained are maintained between 4 ° C. and 8 ° C. in a refrigerated storage chamber. The viability of the microorganisms is then evaluated over time, at 10, 30, and 60 days after preparation and preservation of the compositions, according to the principle of the protocol detailed previously in the description. In short, after homogenizing the product with a spatula, 1 g of formula (+/- 2%) is taken using a spatula.

One tube (9mL) of LT100 broth (Tryptone Salt + neutralizer) is added to obtain the dilution -1 and successive dilutions are carried out (up to -4 on the first week of enumeration, then -2 or -3 depending on the results. previously obtained counts).

50 .mu.l of each dilution are then spread on LT100 agar plates using the Eddyjet spiral collector and the boxes obtained in an oven are placed for 2 to 3 days before reading them and the number of tablets is recorded. colonies of microorganisms per box in cfu per gram. The results are detailed in Table II below.

Table II: Quantity of Microorganisms Lactobacillus Lactobacillus Micrococcus (in cfu / g) rhamnosus paracasei luteis Time (in days) 0 1.5.105 1.0.104 1.0.105 10 4.0.104 1.0.103 5.0.104 30 7.0.104 9.0.103 The results indicate that the formulation of active live probiotic microorganisms in a composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a dispersed aqueous phase makes it possible to maintain the viability of these microorganisms during the course of the period. time and keep them in a relatively stable amount compared to the initial amount (TO). In particular, such a formulation proves to be very effective for the preservation of living and active Micrococcus luteis for at least 30 days, or even at least 60 days. Moreover, a cosmetic composition in the form of an W / O emulsion and comprising high levels of live probiotic microorganisms is found to have particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of the care of keratin materials, and especially the skin. . Such a composition makes it possible to reduce the sensitivity of sensitive or irritable skin, and in particular to prevent and / or reduce their irritation.

Example 2 Water-in-oil type emulsion% by weight Microorganisms see Table III below Magnesium sulphate 0.7 Shea butter 4.0 Apricot almond oil 1.4 Acetylene ethylene glycol stearate mixture glyceryl tri-stearate (Unitwix from United Guardian) 0.5 Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from Dow Corning) 9.0 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90 from Goldschmidt) 1.5 Polyisobutene hydrogenated (PARLEAM from NOF Corporation) 10.0 Isofearate polyglyceryl-4 (Isolan GI 34 from Goldschmidt) 0.5 Glycerol 7.0 Water qs 100

Table III: Microorganisms tested Composition 2-a 2-b 2-c Microorganisms Lactobacillus Lactobacillus Micrococcus luteis rhamnosus paracasei Amount cfu / g) 1.5.105 1.0.104 3.0.105 Three compositions 2-a, 2-b and 2-c, differing from each other by the nature of the microorganism tested, are prepared according to the protocol described above. The compositions thus obtained are maintained between 4 ° C. and 8 ° C. in a refrigerated storage chamber. The viability of the microorganisms is then evaluated over time, at 10, 30 and 60 days after preparation and preservation of the compositions, by culturing a sample taken from the compositions stored according to the protocol described above at example 1.

The results are detailed in Table IV below.

Table IV: Quantity of Microorganisms Lactobacillus Lactobacillus Micrococcus (in cfu / g) rhamnosus paracasei luteis Time (in days) 0 1.0.105 1.0.104 3.0.105 10 2.0.104 5.0.103 2.0.104 30 8.0.104 1.0.104 The results indicate that the formulation of live probiotic microorganisms active in a composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a dispersed aqueous phase makes it possible to maintain the viability of these microorganisms over time and to keep them in a relatively stable quantity relative to the initial quantity (TO). In particular, such a formulation proves to be very effective for the preservation of living and active probiotic microorganisms for at least 30 days, or even at least 60 days, and particularly attractive, by the presence of microorganisms, in terms of cosmetics and care. keratin materials and in particular the skin. What is more, such a composition makes it possible to reduce the sensitivity of sensitive or irritable skin, and in particular to prevent and / or reduce their irritation.

EXAMPLE 3 Comparative Example: Composition with a continuous aqueous phase% by weight Microorganisms see Table V below Soda 0.006 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 2.0 Jojoba seed oil 2.5 Glycerol 3.0 Dimethicone 10 cst (WACKER-BELSIL DM 10 at Wacker) 6.0 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (PARLEAM from NOF Corporation) 4.5 Copolymer (polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid / alcohol methacrylate C12 / C14 ethoxylated) (8 mole EO) (80/20) 1.0 ( Aristoflex LNC® from Clariant) Polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles) 0.5 Water qs 100 Table V: Microorganisms tested Composition 3-a 3-b Microorganisms Lactobacillus Micrococcus luteis rhamnosus Quantity cfu / g) 5.0.105 5.0.104 Two compositions 3-a and 3-b, differing from each other by the nature of the microorganism tested, are prepared according to the following protocol. The oily phase is introduced with medium stirring, with the rotor stator in the gelled aqueous phase until a smooth cream, white and homogeneous. The composition is autoclaved under the same conditions as those described in Example 1.

The compositions thus obtained are maintained between 4 ° C and 8 ° C in a refrigerated storage chamber. The viability of the microorganisms is then evaluated over time, at 1 and 3 days after preparation and storage of the compositions, by culturing a sample taken from the compositions stored according to the protocol described above in Example 1 .

The results are detailed in Table VI below. Table VI: Quantity of microorganisms Lactobacillus Micrococcus (in cfu / g) rhamnosus luteis Time (in days) 0 5.0.105 5.0.104 1 3.0.105 1.0.102 3 0 05 There is a total disappearance of active microorganisms active from 3 days . The results indicate that the formulation of live probiotic microorganisms active in a composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase does not allow these living microorganisms to be conserved over time in a satisfactory manner and results in cosmetic and skincare properties. significantly reduced keratin levels, especially for sensitive or irritable skin.

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, said composition being of the water-in-oil emulsion type, and containing an effective amount of at least one live active probiotic microorganism, said microorganism (s) ( s) being present in the aqueous phase, and comprising from 0 to 0.001% by weight of preserving agent relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the average internal temperature varies from 4 ° C to 25 ° C, preferably from 4 ° C to 16 ° C, and in particular from 4 ° C to 8 ° C. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, said composition being devoid of preservatives. 4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the probiotic microorganism is selected from Lactobacillus sp., Bifidobacterium sp., Cocci, yeasts, sporulated bacteria, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is selected from Lactobacillus sp., Bifidobacterium sp., and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the probiotic microorganism is present in a content ranging from 102 to 1015 cfu per gram of composition, in particular from 103 to 1012 cfu / g, in particular from 104 to 1010 cfu. / g, and more particularly from 105 to 108 cfu / g of active live probiotic microorganisms per gram of composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition further comprising at least one non-pathogenic accessory microorganism. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from mineral hydrocarbon oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous phase additionally comprises at least one water-soluble organic solvent chosen from C 2 to C 6, preferably C 3 to C 6, hydrocarbon compounds comprising from two to six hydroxyl groups. preferably from three to five hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 25% to 75%, and more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emulsifying agent, in particular selected from silicone emulsifiers, fatty acid esters and emulsifying polyols, polymers of the fatty acid ester type. and polyoxyalkylene glycol, polyolefins with polar portion (s), and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the silicone emulsifying agent is selected from emulsifying silicone elastomers, alkyldimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyols, and mixtures thereof. 12. The composition of claim 10, wherein the fatty acid ester and emulsifying polyols is selected from esters comprising a fatty acid or a fatty acid polymer comprising a C6-C22 alkyl chain, preferably C16 alkyl chain. -C20, and a polyol selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, and sorbitan. 13. A packaging article comprising at least one hermetic container containing at least one composition according to any preceding claim and means for dispensing at least a portion of said composition, said means for dispensing said portion of the composition without contacting the remainder of the composition contained in said container with the environment external to the contents of said container. 14. Cosmetic process for treating keratinous substances of an individual comprising at least one stage of topical administration on at least one keratin material of said individual of at least one layer of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 12.