FR2885049A1 - Topical cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful to protect the skin and to fight against the climatic and environmental effect, comprises a seed extract of Araucaria - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical cosmetic and/or dermatological composition to protect the skin, comprises a seed extract of Araucaria. ACTIVITY : Antidepressant; Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to a new cosmetic composition and / or

  dermatological agent intended to ensure the protection of the epidermis, and more particularly a composition based on Araucaria seed extract having a protective effect.

  protection of the skin against climatic aggressions, especially in high temperature.

  Araucaria is a tree of the family Araucariaceae with a very variable trunk and often high, up to 25 to 30 m or more for some species, whose branches bear evergreen leaves in the form of sharp scales. This plant family is very old since there are traces of it at the Triassic boundary, that is to say at a period whose age is several million years.

  The main araucaria species are Araucaria araucana, sometimes referred to as Araucaria imbricata, which is mainly found in Chile, Araucaria angustifolia (or Araucaria brasiliensis) native to Brazil and Argentina, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians, and Araucaria excelsa. Araucarias are generally exploited in the construction and decoration, and preference is given to using species established in temperate and subtropical areas to facilitate cultivation and exploitation. Various useful substances have been extracted from certain species of araucarias, and for example JP 7025719 discloses an antimicrobial containing a resin extracted from the trunk of Araucaria angustifolia, while EP 95133 describes polyprenyl derivatives useful in the synthesis of substances. for therapeutic purposes, obtained by extraction of araucariaceae leaves, in particular Araucaria brasiliana. It is also known that araucaria seeds are sometimes consumed in the diet, particularly in parts of South America, in the same way as pine nuts.

  B1567en The skin constitutes a real organ comprising several integrated layers, going from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each has specific properties allowing the whole to react and to adapt to the conditions of its environment.

  The epidermis, mainly composed of keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, varies in thickness in different parts of the body. Since it constitutes the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis plays a fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. This is why many compositions have been developed to protect and improve its functions, including strengthening its elasticity and firmness.

  The dermis, thicker, solid, rich in nerves, blood vessels and sweat glands, consists mainly of collagen, elastin and proteoglycans.

  These three types of molecules are synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers, which account for 70% of the dry weight of the dermis, provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for elasticity, and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin. the skin. Other cells such as macrophages and leucocytes are also present in the dermis layer.

  The hypodermis, which is the deeper layer of the skin, contains the lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects the muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock.

  The aging of the skin can be intrinsic, or extrinsic, that is to say caused by the environment, including climatic aggressions, which can notably contribute to accelerate the degradation of collagen of the dermis, and in particular exposure to the sun, temperature variations and free radicals. The first signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, are usually caused by stress and biological and physiological changes, accelerated by the external environment. In fact, the ability of the skin to replace damaged collagen decreases over time, and spaces and irregularities appear in the collagen network. At the skin level, aging causes in particular a decrease in protein synthesis (collagen, elastin), a decrease in the synthesis of proteoglycans among others, as well as an increase in MMP3 type metalloproteinases.

  Although many dermatological and cosmetic compositions have been proposed, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative topical compositions that make it possible to effectively combat the effects of skin aging, and in particular topical compositions based on appropriate plant extracts coming from more especially of plants known for their favorable properties.

  The studies carried out by the Applicant have shown that it is possible to protect the epidermis and to act effectively against climatic and environmental aggressions, in particular against the effects of exposure to heat and temperature variations. using topical compositions based on Araucaria extracts.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on Araucaria, and more particularly on the basis of Araucaria seed extract.

  The subject of the present invention is also the use of an extract of Araucaria seeds for the preparation of a topical composition intended to combat the aggressions of the climate and the environment, in particular against the effects of exposure to heat and temperature variations.

  The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for combating the effects of climatic and environmental stress on the skin, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a topical composition containing an effective amount of the seed extract of Araucaria according to the present invention.

  The invention also relates to the use of a Araucaria seed extract for the preparation of a dermatological drug for the protection of the epidermis against environmental and climatic aggressions.

  The compositions according to the present invention are distinguished in that they comprise an Araucaria seed extract in an amount effective to provide epidermal protection, as well as acceptable carriers and excipients in dermatology and cosmetology.

  Thus, the topical compositions of the invention may be advantageously used in dermatology and cosmetology for the treatment or prevention of disorders related to skin stress resulting from a temperature change, and more particularly to prevent or reduce the effects exposure to heat and temperature changes.

  Araucaria seeds are advantageously selected from the seeds of Araucaria araucana (Araucaria imbricata), Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians, and Araucaria excelsa. Araucaria araucana and Araucaria cunninghami are preferably used.

  The tests carried out by the applicant have shown that, among the various parts of the plant, it is preferable to use the seeds, which are readily available and whose preservation does not generally raise any technical difficulty.

  The Araucaria seed extracts used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably in the form of a hydroglycolic extract of the pulverized seed, for example in butylene glycol-1,3, butylene glycol-1,4, pentyl glycol, capryl glycol, bipropylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, and glycerine.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract that can be used in the invention is obtained by maceration from reduced powdered Araucaria seeds.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the araucaria seeds are crushed and macerated in water, and after expression and filtration the extract is stabilized with the glycol. According to one variant, the seeds reduced to powder are macerated and the macerate is depleted with a water / glycol mixture (50/50), and the product is then decanted, expressed, clarified and filtered.

  The extract (Araucaria araucana) in a butylene glycol-water mixture (50/50) is in the form of a color liquid between yellow and amber, of characteristic odor, soluble in water, characterized by: dry matter 0.64% - density at 22 C 1.014 - refractive index at 22 C 1.391 - pH 6.17 The Araucaria seed extracts included in the compositions according to the present invention have shown in vitro tests of the effects protection of the epidermis vis-à-vis the stress induced by significant differences in temperature.

  The tests were carried out using samples assayed at 0.64% of extract, on reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic) maintained at constant temperature (20 C and 42 C).

  The results, detailed below, have highlighted the anti-stress effect without harmful side effects, and in particular: E perfect safety vis-à-vis the epidermis; A significant decrease in the level of HSP70 stress proteins compared with the positive control at 42 C.

  The reduction in the level of HSP 70 stress proteins was observed at 20 C and is significant at 42 C. This result was confirmed by immunohistochemical analysis on reconstituted epidermal sections.

  These results were obtained with: an extract of araucaria seeds (Araucaria araucana), and. confirm that, in topical application, such an extract, or a composition containing it, has a protective effect vis-à-vis the stress induced by climatic aggressions and more particularly temperature differences. The same results are confirmed with a dry extract and a lyophilisate.

  The results are explained in the examples below.

  The araucaria seed extract according to the present invention can be used alone or in combination with other compatible active principles that is to say not likely to react on one another or to mask or limit their respective effects .

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the araucaria seed extract is supplemented with active ingredients or auxiliary ingredients chosen for their complementary properties, in order to reinforce the effect of inhibiting facial muscular contractions or to supplement the protective effects of the composition.

  As a complementary active agent, it is possible, for example, to use a product exerting a relaxing effect on the skin, such as, for example, a blue lotus extract, a poppy or marshmallow extract or Hibiscus esculentus extracts commercially available under the trade mark Myoxinol. The protective effect of the araucaria extracts of the invention can also be advantageously supplemented by polyphenols extracted from cocoa or grapes, or by products promoting cutaneous microcirculation such as flavonoids and larch extracts such as Cryocytol. .

  The compositions according to the present invention may be in any of the usual dosage forms suitable for topical application, and preferably in the form of lotion, cream, milk or serum.

  They may comprise between 0.1% and 20% by weight of araucaria seed extract, as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 and 10% by weight. The choice of the dose in the composition can be made according to the intended use. For prolonged protective treatment, lower doses, in the form of milk or cream dosed at about 1 to 5%, are preferably used, while spot treatment may require higher doses, for example a serum dosed between 5 and 5%. and 10%.

  The compositions in accordance with the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of a lotion, gel, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), mask, ointment, nanocapsules, liposomes or patches transdermal, containing excipients and common supports compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable. They may also be in the form of wipes soaked in a solution containing the araucaria seed extract according to the invention. These forms of topical administration are prepared by the usual techniques, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. In the case of creams, it is preferred to use lamellar structure emulsions containing little or no ethoxylated products.

  In the case of nanocapsules and liposomes, it may be advantageous to use an aqueous extract preferably a hydroglycoic extract.

  The topical compositions according to the invention may for example comprise excipients suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients. These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art and include in particular penetrating agents such as ethoxydiglycol, phytantriol, octyl dodecanol and escin; thickeners such as natural gums and synthetic polymers; emollients and surfactants such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, cetyl phosphate; emulsifiers; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl parahydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propylparaben parahydroxybenzoate (propylparaben) and Phenonip associating phenoxyethanol and methyl, ethyl, butyl and isobutyl parahydroxybenzoates; dyes; the perfumes; etc. Other ingredients may be used in the compositions: moisturizing agents such as propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and also antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol, vitamin C, natural polyphenols. It is also possible to add skin conditioning agents such as nylon and boron nitride to the composition, as well as agents for protecting against ultraviolet rays, and for example hydrophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens. or lipophilic, chosen from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Eusolex 4360), or a cinnamic acid ester and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292), methoxycinnamate or 2-ethylhexyl (Parsol MCX), or alternatively a cyano-3α, (3-diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (Eusolex OCR), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300), and derivatives of dibenzoylmethane such as 4- isopropyl dibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 8020), t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), and 4-methoxydibenzoylmethane can also be used as anti-ultraviolet screen pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, oxide zirconium or aluminum oxide.

  The following examples illustrate the invention in more detail without limiting its scope. In all of the following examples of compositions, parts are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1

  According to conventional techniques, a care cream for sensitive skin is prepared having the following weight composition.

  Hydrogenated coconut oil 3.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.00 Squalane 5.00 Borage oil 3.00 Glycerol monostearate 3.00 B.H.A. 0.05 Demineralized water qs 100.00 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 4.00 Butylene glycol-1.3 4.00 Glycolic burdock extract 1.00 Glycol camomile extract 1.00 Sodium Glycerrhetinate 0.10 Preservatives 0, 80 Araucaria araucana seed extract 5.00 The Araucaria araucana seed extract used in the above composition is a glycolic extract obtained by treating crushed and ground seeds of Araucaria araucana.

  The cream having the composition indicated above is used in application on the face, once or twice a day.

Example 2

  According to a conventional technique, a sunscreen cream having the following weight composition is prepared.

  Demineralised water qs 100.00 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 4.00 Butylene glycol-1.3 4.00 Preservatives 0.70 Chlorphenesin 0.05 Xanthan gum 0.15 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 10.00 Coconut oil Hydrogenated 3.50 Cetyl Palmitate 1.50 Di-isopropyl Dilinoleate Dimer 6.00 Phenyltrimethicone 2.00 Sorbitan Stearate 2.50 PEG 20 Sorbitan Stearate 3.50 Ceteart 20 0.20 Shea Butter 3.00 Methoxycinnamate octyl (ParsolMCX) 2.50 Octyl salicylate 3.00 Butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane 2.50 Araucaria araucana seed extract 6.00

Example 3

  According to conventional techniques, a tonic lotion having the following weight composition is prepared.

  Demineralised water qs 100.00 Preservatives 0.50 Trisodium EDTA 0.05 Glycerin 3.00 Butylene glycol-1.3 4.00 Sodium lactate 2.00 Urea 0.20 Water of roses 20.00 Water of lime 20.00 Tween 20 0.50 a-bisabolol 0.05 ethyl alcohol 96% vol. 5.00 Sodium Glycerrhetinate 0.10 Araucaria Araucana Seed Extract 10.00

Example 4

  The study of the effects of the araucaria seed extract according to the present invention on the protection of the epidermis with respect to the stress induced by temperature differences was made on an in vitro model of reconstituted epidermis. , as indicated above.

  The epidermal protection is evaluated by assaying the HSP 70 stress proteins, which are proteins released as a result of stress resulting from ultraviolet irradiation, and by immunohistochemical staining.

  Experimental protocol The study was performed on reconstituted epidermis (Skinethic). Each test was performed in triplicate.

  Keratinocytes of human origin are seeded on polycarbonate filters of 0.63 cm 2 in a defined medium (modified MCDB 153) and supplemented. The cells are cultured for 14 days at the air-liquid interface, the culture medium being changed every two days.

  The epidermis thus formed were used for the realization of the study from the 17th day of culture.

  Preliminary test The test is carried out in triplicate after 6 hours of treatment (contact of the hydroglycolic extracts of araucaria with the epidermis). Four lots were formed.

  lot 1: control epidermis not receiving any product lot 2: epidermis treated with Araucaria araucana extract lot 3: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 20 C lot 4: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 42 C The epidermis fixed in a solution of 10% formaldehyde are included in paraffin blocks. Vertical sections of 4 microns are stained with hematoxylin / eosin (HES) and photographed under a microscope.

  Histo-pathological interpretation is as follows. The cultures must have intact, orthokeratotic basal, spinous, granular and corneal cell layers, and the epidermal stratification must be regular and normal. The cells of the basal layer must be vertically polarized. Many grains of keratohyalin must be visible (of purple color) in the granular layer just below the stratum corneum.

  Evaluation of the anti-stress effect The test is conducted in triplicate after 6 hours of contact between the product sample and the reconstituted epidermis. 6 batches are prepared. Lot 1: control epidermis not receiving any products. Lot 2: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 20 ° C. lot 3: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 42 ° C. Lot 4: epidermis treated with the extract of Araucaria araucana E lot 5: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 20 ° C. and treated with Araucaria araucana extract lot 6: epidermis maintained at a temperature of 42 ° C. and treated with Araucaria araucana extract Araucaria araucana is used at 2 pl / cm2.

  The HSP 70 stress proteins were quantified by immunoassay using a specific antihuman antibody (Stressgen). The revelation was carried out by means of a secondary antibody, then the reaction was stopped by addition of an acidic solution. The absorbance measurement was made at 450 nm.

  Moreover, at the end of the incubation time (6 hours) the epidermis were fixed in a formalin solution and then dehydrated by successive baths of alcohol. After inclusion, the epidermis was cut and treated with immunohistochemistry. This reaction was carried out by the anti-HSP 70 monoclonal antibody (Sigma).

  The results are summarized in the tables below. The evaluation of the anti-stress effect of the HSP 70 proteins without induction by the temperature variation gives the following results: HSP 70 (μg / ml)% Control 1325 183 - Araucaria extract 1281 143 ns Evaluation of the The anti-stress effect of HSP 70 proteins after induction by temperature variation gives the following results: HSP 70 (μg / ml)% Control 1325 183 - T = 20 C 1519 127 +15 (ns) T = 42 C 1897 165 +43 T = 20 C + Extract 1420 97 -7 (ns) of Araucaria T = 42 C + Extract 1508 _t 112 -21 of Araucaria These results show that the incubation of the epidermis at 20 C and 42 C leads to increase of HSP 70 stress proteins. Treatment of the epidermis with the araucaria extract according to the invention induces a significant decrease in HSP 70 after incubation at 42 ° C.

  In addition, it has been shown that the Araucaria araucana extract according to the invention, deposited at a rate of 2 μg / cm 2, on reconstituted epidermides treated for 24 hours, compared to control epidermides, did not induce any toxicity. The histological images, after HES staining, are comparable for the treated epidermis and for the control epidermis.

  These results demonstrate the protective effect of the epidermis exerted by the araucaria seed extract of the invention.

Claims (9)

  1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for topical application, intended to ensure the protection of the epidermis, characterized in that it comprises an effective amount of an extract of araucaria seeds.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained from seeds of Araucaria araucana (Araucaria imbricata), Araucaria angustifolia, Araucaria heterophylla, Araucaria bidwilli, Araucaria cunninghami, Araucaria cooki, Araucaria luxurians, and Araucaria excelsa .   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract is in the form of glycolic.   4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the extract is obtained by maceration from araucaria seeds (Araucaria araucana or Araucaria cunninghami) reduced to powder.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the araucaria seed extract is a liquid characterized by: - dry matter 0.64% - density at 22 C 1.014 - refractive index at 22 C. 1.391 - pH 6.17 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 0.1% and 20% by weight of araucaria seed extract.   10. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises between 1 and 10% by weight of araucaria seed extract.   8. Use of an araucaria seed extract for the preparation of a topical composition for combating climate and environmental stress.   9. Cosmetic process for combating the effects of climatic and environmental aggressions on the skin, comprising applying to the areas of the skin concerned a composition containing an effective amount of the topical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.   10. Use of araucaria seed extract for the preparation of a dermatological medicament for the protection of the epidermis against environmental and climatic aggressions.