EP2167015A2

EP2167015A2 - Dms (derma membrane structure) in foaming creams

Info

Publication number: EP2167015A2
Application number: EP08761225A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Neubourg
Original assignee: Neubourg Skin Care GmbH and Co KG
Current assignee: Neubourg Skin Care GmbH and Co KG
Priority date: 2007-06-19
Filing date: 2008-06-19
Publication date: 2010-03-31
Also published as: IL202088A0; PT2020221E; JP6381379B2; KR20170016013A; DK2020221T3; CA2691393C; EP2020221A1; UA98499C2; EP2815737A1; JP5971891B2; RS52337B; US20200289381A1; WO2008155389A2; HRP20120423T1; KR20100031749A; MX2009013348A; EA201070028A1; EP2020221B1; JP2015007115A; CN101686903A

Abstract

The invention relates to a foam formulation comprising an emulsion, comprising an oil phase and a water phase, the oil phase comprising at least one membrane-forming substance forming a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation.

Description

DMS in foam creams

Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological foam formulations, in particular foam creams, based on emulsions, in particular of the oil-in-water type, wherein the oil phase comprises at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation.

Background of the invention

1. Emulsions

Emulsion is generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely dispersed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, for example, milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g., butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character here being determined by the oil.

In order to achieve the permanent dispersion of one liquid in another, emulsions in the conventional sense require the addition of a surface-active substance (emulsifier). Emulsifiers have an amphiphilic molecular structure consisting of a polar (hydrophilic) and a nonpolar (lipophilic) moiety, which are spatially separated. In simple Emulsions are in one phase finely dispersed, enclosed by an emulsifier shell droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) before. Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the phases by being located at the interface between the two liquids. They form at the phase boundary

Oil / water interface films, which counteracts the irreversible flow together of the droplets. Emulsifier mixtures are often used to stabilize emulsions.

Conventional emulsifiers can be subdivided into ionic (anionic, cationic and amphoteric) and nonionic according to their hydrophilic moiety:

The most well-known example of an anionic emulsifier is the soap, usually referred to as the water-soluble sodium or potassium salts of the saturated and unsaturated higher fatty acids.

• Important representatives of the cationic emulsifiers are the quaternary ammonium compounds.

The hydrophilic moiety of non-ionic emulsifiers often consists of glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitans, carbohydrates or polyoxyethylene glycols and is usually linked to the lipophilic moiety via ester and ether bonds. This usually consists of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or iso-fatty acids.

The term "emulsifier" or "conventional emulsifier" is known in the art. Conventional emulsifiers and their use are described, for example, in the publications: Pflegekosmetik, 4th edition, Wissenschaftliche Verlagsgesellschaft mbH Stuttgart, pages 151 to 159, and Fiedler Lexikon der Hilfsstoffe, 5th edition Editio Cantor Verlag Aulendorf, pages 97 to 121 described. By varying the structure and size of the polar and non-polar part of the molecule, the lipophilicity and hydrophilicity of emulsifiers can be varied within wide limits.

Decisive for the stability of a conventional emulsion is the correct choice of emulsifiers. The characteristics of all substances contained in the system must be taken into account. Consider, e.g. Skin care emulsions, so polar oil components such. B. UV filters lead to instabilities. In addition to the emulsifiers therefore other stabilizers are used, for example, increase the viscosity of the emulsion and / or act as a protective colloid.

Emulsions represent an important product type in the field of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, which are used in a wide variety of applications

Application areas are used. Thus, a variety of products - such as lotions and creams - are available for the care of the skin, in particular for the refatting of dry skin. The aim of skin care is to compensate for the loss of fat and water caused by daily washing of the skin. In addition, skin care products should protect against environmental influences - especially from sun and wind - and delay the aging of the skin.

Cosmetic emulsions are also used as deodorants. Such formulations serve to eliminate body odor that results when the odorless fresh sweat is decomposed by microorganisms.

Also for cleaning the skin and skin appendages find emulsions in the form of cleaning emulsions use. They are mostly the facial cleanser and especially used for the removal of decorative cosmetics. Such cleaning emulsions have - in contrast to other cleaning preparations such as soap - the advantage of being particularly tolerated by the skin, since they may contain nourishing oils and / or non-polar active substances such as vitamin E in their lipophilic phase.

2. Emulsifier-free emulsions

For decades, conventional emulsifiers have been the basis for the development of skincare products. Emulsifiers were used as adjuvants for

Production and used especially for the stabilization of emulsions. More recently, there is evidence that the use of emulsifiers in skin care preparations e.g. sensitive skin can cause problems, as the emulsifiers typically interfere with the integrity of the natural skin barrier and skin cleansing may result in loss of natural skin barrier. The loss of natural barrier fabrics can cause increased roughness, dry skin, cracking and erosion.

Furthermore, the use of emulsifiers usually results in the lamellar structures of the lipid barrier being transformed into vesicular structures such as micelles or mixed micelles. These vesicles "destroy" at least part of the barrier layer of the skin and thereby locally increase the permeability of the barrier layer membrane, which at least temporarily increases the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and at the same time decreases the moisture binding capacity of the skin Skin Continuous use of care products with conventional emulsifiers may even result in the skin being unable to maintain its protective function. A particular form of the emulsion are emulsifier-free emulsions. These are free of emulsifiers in the conventional sense, ie of amphiphilic substances with low molecular weights (ie molecular weight <5000), which can form micelles and / or other liquid-crystalline aggregates in suitable concentrations. The term "emulsifier" is defined by the IUPAC as follows: Emulsifiers (ie conventional emulsifiers) are surface-active substances, which preferentially adhere to the interface between the oil and water phases and thus lower the interfacial tension Emulsifiers facilitate emulsification even at low concentrations In addition, these substances can improve the stability of emulsions by reducing the rate of aggregation and / or coalescence, according to a definition of the Society for Dermopharmacy (https://www.dermotopics.org/) adopted in an interdisciplinary consensus between pharmacists, dermatologists and other professionals A formulation can be termed "emulsifier - free" if it is stabilized with surfactant macromolecules (molecular weight of more than 5,000) instead of emulsifiers in the narrower sense (conventional emulsifiers) English:. / en / german / edition_ 1 _03_e / emulsifier_free_ 1 _2003_e.htm.

To stabilize pharmaceutical and cosmetic emulsions, predominantly so-called true emulsifiers, i. conventional emulsifiers in the sense of the present description, which belong to their structure and their physical-chemical behavior according to the class of surfactants. They are characterized by an amphiphilic structure and the ability to micellar association. Compounds or mixtures of substances to be used instead of

Micellization lead to the formation of a lamellar membrane arranged in the context of the present invention, but are not considered conventional emulsifiers. Examples of such compounds are, for example, phospholipids, such as lecithins, Sphingolipids, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their mono- and / or diesters, as well as sterols, etc., when dispersed under certain conditions as described below. Such mixtures may also contain triglycerides (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic), squalene (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic), or squalane (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic). Preferred examples of membrane-forming substances of the present invention are phospholipids, sphingolipids, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their mono- and / or diesters, and sterols. These compounds, for example phospholipids, in contrast to typical emulsifiers, in particular surfactants with a comparable HLB value of about 10, are insoluble in water. They usually do not form micelles or hexagonal liquid crystalline phases alone. They form spontaneously above the phase transition temperature in water exclusively large multilamellar vesicles (LUVs). Below the phase transition temperature they can be dispersed in water with high energy input and form lamellar structures. The named

Phase transition temperature indicates the temperature at which a gel phase changes into a liquid-crystalline phase. Below the phase transition temperature there is a gel phase above which there is a liquid-crystalline phase. The phase transition temperatures vary depending on the composition (saturated / unsaturated, short / long) and are typically between 10 ^° C. and 70 ^° C., for example for phospholipids. For a given system, the phase transition temperature can be easily measured by DSC.

Membrane-forming substances typically also contain lipophilic and hydrophilic parts of the molecule. The ability of a membrane - forming substance in the

In contrast to micelles, lamellar structures depend in particular on the optimal area a ₀ (carbon / water interface), the volume V, and the critical chain length l _c (Israelachvili, Jacob N: "Intermolecular and Surface Forces: With Applications to Colloidal and Biological Systems. "2 ^nd Edition Academic Press, London, UK, 1992).

Furthermore, it may be necessary to choose specific manufacturing conditions for a system to form lamellar structures. These will be described in more detail below for the systems according to the invention. While systems are known in the art in which micellar structures can be converted to lamellar structures under appropriate conditions, there are also systems in which no phase transformation into another phase, e.g. a micellar, hexagonal phase, etc. is possible. Still other systems allow the formation of a lamellar phase under suitable conditions; however, a change in concentration does not cause other mesophases to be formed.

Lamellar structures thus form under well-defined conditions and are not arbitrary by changing the concentration to other mesophases, e.g. micellar structures convertible. In the case of water-soluble surfactants (emulsifiers), micelles, hexagonal and lamellar liquid-crystalline phases form as a function of the surfactant concentration. It is also possible that, depending on the concentration mixtures of different states

(hexagonal and lamellar) in equilibrium next to each other. In contrast, membrane-forming substances of the present invention are typically insoluble in water. These water-insoluble lipids, such as e.g. Phospholipids, liposomal structures are usually not next to lamellar structures, but either one structure or the other.

An example of emulsifier-free emulsions are Pickering emulsions. Pickering emulsions are solids-stabilized emulsions in which the finest-distributed Solid particles stabilize the emulsion, so that can be dispensed largely conventional emulsifiers. This results in an accumulation of the solid material at the interface oil / water in the form of a layer, whereby a confluence of the disperse phase is prevented. Such suitable solid emulsifiers are particulate inorganic or organic solids which are wettable by both lipophilic and hydrophilic liquids. Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, Fe ₂ O ₃ , Veegum, bentonite or ethylcellulose are preferably used as solids in the Pickering emulsions.

However, even these solid emulsifiers can lead to irritation in sensitive skin or even cause allergies.

There are already cream bases used today, which work with a variety of natural or skin-like ingredients that better

Skin compatibility especially on sensitive skin promise. It has been shown that the use of skin-like ingredients to achieve improved skin care. Thus, in these cream bases, e.g. some components of the natural skin lipids such as e.g. Triglycerides by (caprylic) caprylic acid / capric triglycerides, squalene by (vegetable) squalane, ceramides by ceramides 3 (from yeast), cholesterol by (plant) phytosterols and phospholipids by (plant) phospholipids.

Preferably, this concept dispenses with many customary auxiliaries, such as fragrances, dyes, comedogenic lipids (eg mineral oils), preservatives and physiologically questionable emulsifiers, since these are potentially sensitizing and can cause skin irritation. These formulations are preferably prepared without conventional emulsifiers to avoid the above-mentioned disadvantages of conventional emulsifiers.

Without being bound to any particular theory, it is believed that the particular effect of these specifically assembled membrane lipids is related to the lamellar structure. The elimination of conventional emulsifiers prevents micelles or vesicles from being formed so that the lamellar structure of the formed membrane is retained in the emulsion. This lamellar structure is modeled on the (physical) structure and the (chemical) composition of the natural epidermal skin lipids, which are preferably found as a cement substance between the cells (corneocytes) of the stratum corneum.

Systems which rely on specifically assembled membrane lipids having a lamellar structure of the membrane are known by the term "DMS®" (Derma Membrane Structure) in the art.

3. foam formulations

A special form of application of cosmetic and / or dermatological

Emulsions is the application as foams. Foam formulations have the advantage of being easily distributed on the skin. The foamy consistency is perceived as pleasant and the products usually leave a good skin feeling. In particular, however, the physical structure of the foam also has a positive effect on the skin protection function. Foams are complicated physical structures that require special tuning of the foam-forming components. Foams are generally obtained by spraying an emulsion formulation or an aqueous surfactant (stabilizer) solution. For example, the propellant-added emulsion is discharged from a pressurized container (such systems are also referred to in the literature and patent literature as aerosol foams). In this case, the pressurized mixture of emulsion and propellant gas expands and forms the foam bubbles. In particular, there is an expansion of the dispersed oil phase in which the oil-soluble gas is dissolved. However, foams can also be produced using other systems, such as pump sprays.

Coordinated foam formulations have a stable two- or more-phase polydisperse structure on application which forms a network structure on the skin comparable to a membrane. Such network structures have the advantage that they form a protective function, for example before contact with water, but allow unimpeded gas exchange with the environment. In such foams, there is virtually no obstruction of Perspiratio insensibiles and no corresponding heat accumulation. Thus, the positive properties of a protective and care function are associated with an unchanged skin respiration.

Foam formulations known heretofore include conventional surfactants / emulsifiers which provide for the stabilization of the emulsion and for the subsequent foam stability.

However, conventional emulsifiers or surfactants, as previously discussed, are repeatedly referred to as the cause of incompatibilities in skin care products, e.g. a disturbance of the skin barrier or Mallorca acne.

Therefore, a need exists for individual skin care compositions that better meet skin needs than conventional emulsion systems Emulsifier basis and thus provide better skin protection and improved skin care.

A use of cream bases which have a lamellar structure in the composition similar to the membrane-forming epidermal lipids has not previously been described in foam formulations.

The object of the present invention is to provide improved foam formulations, in particular better foam creams, which circumvents the above-mentioned disadvantages of the prior art formulations.

Summary of the invention

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that emulsions comprising an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation, are suitable as the basis for foam formulations. In a preferred embodiment, the foam formulations are substantially emulsifier-free, i. they contain substantially no conventional emulsifiers, wherein the substance or the substance mixture, which leads to the formation of a lamellar membrane arranged, does not apply as a conventional emulsifier. For example, in the field of traffic awareness, e.g. to call the commercial product Physiogel® cream containing DMS® concentrate "emulsifier-free".

The membrane-forming substances and substance mixtures according to the present invention are typically insoluble in water, while conventional emulsifiers, in particular surfactants having a comparable HLB value of about 10, are usually water-soluble. Further, the water-insoluble membrane-forming substances according to the present invention are not capable of spontaneously emulsifying oils, whereas conventional emulsifiers, especially those having a high HLB value, can spontaneously emulsify oils. Conventional low HLB emulsifiers, unlike membrane-forming substances according to the present invention, eg phospholipids, are not capable of forming lamellar structures or liposomes alone. A peculiarity of membrane-forming substances of the present invention in contrast to conventional emulsifiers is that, for example, phospholipids have an HLB of 10 and yet are water-insoluble.

Preferably, the membrane-forming substances of the invention have an HLB value greater than 8, more preferably from 9 to 11, and most preferably from 9.5 to 10.5.

According to the present invention, the positive properties of the foam formulations are combined with those of the emulsions in which the oil phase comprises at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation. In particular foam formulations can be produced which combine the positive properties of the foam, namely the physical structure and the pleasant applicability with a good skin compatibility. This feature allows the use of foam formulations for cosmetic and dermatological formulations used on sensitive skin types. Compatibility and ease of use are advantageously combined. The lamellar structure of the at least one membrane-forming substance, which is important for the skin compatibility, has not been taken into account in foam formulations of the prior art. It is not self-evident that these emulsions lead to stable foam products during foaming. As already mentioned, foams are obtained, for example, by incorporating propellant gases in O / W emulsion systems. Evaporates during foaming, for example, dissolved in the disperse oil phase propellant gas, a foam forms (gas in liquid dispersion). Upon evaporation or expansion of the propellant gas dissolved in the disperse oil phase, dilatation of the dispersed oil phase occurs. It has now surprisingly been found that during foaming of the foam formulations of the invention does not break the preparation and a suitable foam is formed. The foam formed is stable enough, for example, to be applied to the skin.

The invention relates to foam formulations comprising an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase comprises at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation.

The invention preferably relates to foam formulations which work on the basis of natural or skin-like ingredients which make better skin compatibility possible.

Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of foam formulations based on emulsions as carriers for active ingredients, as skin care agents, as skin cleansing agents or as sunscreen agents. The foam formulation can therefore be used as a cosmetic, medical device or pharmaceutical.

In addition, the invention comprises a process for the preparation of foam formulations based on emulsions, in which the oil phase a comprises membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation. The method comprises the steps:

a) preparing an emulsion preferably of the oil-in-water type b) filling the emulsion and propellant gas into a pressure vessel, or c) filling the emulsion into a pressure vessel other than a pressure vessel producing a foam when the emulsion is dispensed.

Description of the picture

FIGS. 1-3 show polarization micrographs of the foam formulation from Example 3.

FIG. 1 shows lamellar membrane-forming structures that can be recognized by so-called Maltese crosses (in particular in the left, upper image area).

In addition, FIG. 2 shows the gas phase of the foam formulation in the form of gas bubbles. Maltese crosses are particularly evident at the phase boundary to the gas phase.

Likewise, in Figure 3 Maltese crosses at the phase boundary to the gas bubbles of the foam can be seen.

Detailed description of the invention

According to the present invention, foam formulations are formulations, in particular emulsions, which are prepared to produce foam. The formulations may in particular either with propellant in a Be bottled pressure vessel or filled without propellant in a container other than a pressure vessel, which makes it possible to produce a foam on delivery of the formulation / emulsion. For example, pump spray containers may also be used.

In a preferred embodiment, the foam formulation is a foam cream.

According to the present invention, substantially emulsifier-free emulsions are those emulsions containing not more than 1.5% by weight, preferably not more than 1.0%, more preferably not more than 0.5% of conventional emulsifiers. According to the invention emulsifier-free emulsions are those which do not contain conventional emulsifiers.

According to the present invention, a membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane is a substance which preferably at the same time has both a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic molecular moiety. Preference is given to substances such as phospholipids, such as lecithins, sphingolipids, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their mono- and / or diesters, as well as sterols, etc. triglycerides (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic), squalene (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic), Squalane (non-hydrophilic and lipophilic) may also be included in mixtures containing membrane-forming substances. Preferred membrane-forming substances are phospholipids, sphingolipids, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their mono- and / or diesters, and sterols. Such substances or corresponding mixtures of substances may be suitably dispersed with an aqueous phase to form lamellar membranes. This can be done, for example, by dispersing under high energy input (eg high-pressure homogenization, Ultrasound) can be achieved. In the case of high-pressure homogenization, pressures in the range of 50,000-250,000 kilopascals (500-2500 bar), more preferably 100,000-150,000 kilopascals (1,000-1500) bar are used. In other cases, high energy input is not required to form lamellar membrane structures (often when using unhydrogenated low transition temperature lecithins and in conjunction with suitable lipids such as isopropyl trimate). The use of certain concentrates which form a lamellar phase is also possible.

The presence of lamellar structures in the dispersion can be readily ascertained by those skilled in the art by methods known in the art. Suitable measuring methods are described, for example, in Claus-Dieter Herzfeld et al. (Ed.), Grundlagen der Arzneiformlehre, Galenik 2, Springer Verlag, 1999. Particularly worth mentioning here is the method of polarization microscopy. In this case, two polarizing films in the so-called cross position, in which the vibration planes of the generated polarized light are perpendicular to each other above and below the object to be examined attached. The plane of oscillation of the incident light is changed by the sample, so that a portion of the light can pass through the second polarization film. The presence of Lammellarphasen is here typically recognizable by so-called Maltese crosses.

According to the present invention, a lamellar membrane is arranged to have a layered structure such that the respective upper layer of the substance is aligned with a lower layer of the substance. The alignment of the individual substance layers is independent of the solvent used in such a way that, for example, the hydrophilic radicals of Point substance to the outside and the hydrophobic residues are aligned inwardly to each other or vice versa.

If two layers of the substance are oriented in the sense described above, this is referred to as a single membrane, while in a superimposition of two further layers, this lamellar structure is referred to as a double membrane. According to the present principle, further layers can be associated with the already existing (double) membrane, which leads to a multiple membrane structure. According to the present invention, the membrane may be present as a single membrane, as a double membrane or as a multiple membrane.

The "wash out" effect is understood to mean a lowering of the skin moisture after the application of the care composition has ended below the initial value.

In accordance with the present invention, body-identical fats are fats of plant origin found in the body.

oil phase

Suitable components which can form the oil phase can be selected from the polar and non-polar lipids or mixtures thereof.

The oil phase of the formulations of the invention is advantageously selected from the group of phospholipids, such as lecithins, (mono-, di-, tri) -glycerides (especially triglycerides, such as the fatty acid triglycerides), sphingolipids, from the group of propylene glycol or butylene glycol -Fatty acid esters, from the group of natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, from the group of ester oils, from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes and from the group of cyclic and linear silicone oils.

The foam formulations according to the present invention, due to the lamellar membrane structure and the resulting structural similarity to the construction of the intercellular lamellar lipid structure of the epidermal lipids, in particular the stratum corneum, allow an improved conditioning effect of the formulation. The analogous structure of the lamellar structure of the skin results in easier integration of the membrane into the skin. The integration also leads to an improvement, in particular the stabilization and restoration of the skin barrier. An intact skin barrier protects the skin from excessive moisture loss. Improvement of the skin barrier may also provide improved skin smoothness and reduce the "wash-out" effect, advantageously achieving a better long-term effect compared to conventional foam formulations.

Preferred foam formulations of the present invention use "skin-like" ingredients to indicate the similarity of the lamellar

Membrane, which is present in the foam formulation to produce with the skin.

Particularly preferred embodiments replace e.g. the natural glycerides present in the horny layer (the skin contains predominantly a mixture of

Di- and triglycerides) by e.g. (vegetable) triglycerides containing squalene by e.g. the less oxidation-susceptible squalane, ceramides by ceramides 3 (from

Yeast), cholesterol by (plant) phytosterols and the phospholipids

(vegetable) phospholipids replaced. In a preferred foam formulation of the invention, the membrane-forming substance comprises a lipid, more preferably a triglyceride and / or phospholipid. In a particularly preferred foam formulation of the invention, the triglyceride is caprylic / capric triglyceride and / or the phospholipid is hydrogenated lecithin.

In another preferred foam formulation of the present invention, the formulation may further comprise lecithin, preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

The preferred foam formulations of the invention may further comprise other ingredients, e.g. Stabilizers such as e.g. Alcohols or glycols may be included. Preference is given to glycols, in particular propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof.

In preferred foam formulations of the invention, further ingredients such as e.g. Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter), squalane, glycerides, ceramides, preferably ceramide 3 or mixtures of the aforementioned.

A preferred foam formulation of the invention comprises a substantially emulsifier-free emulsion. A particularly preferred foam formulation of

Invention is emulsifier-free. In a preferred embodiment, the

Foam formulation free of water-soluble conventional emulsifiers with an HLB value of about 10. In a preferred embodiment, the

Formulation in particular free of the following compounds:

Carboxylates, e.g. Sodium stearate, aluminum stearate;

Sulfates such as Na dodecyl sulfate, Na cetyl stearyl sulfate, Na lauryl ether sulfate

Sulfonate: Na dioctyl sulfosuccinate; Quaternary ammonium compounds, such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide,

benzalkonium bromide;

Pyridinium compounds, e.g. Cetylpyrdiniumchlorid;

Betaines, such as betainemonohydrate; Macrogol fatty acid esters, e.g. Macrogol-30 stearate;

Glycerol fatty acid esters, e.g. Glycerol monostearate, glycerol monooleate,

Glycerol monoisostearate, partial glycerides, medium chain

Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, e.g. Tween®, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate; Sorbitan fatty acid esters, e.g. Sorbitan laurate, sorbitan monooleate,

Sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan sesquioleate;

Sucrose fatty acid esters, e.g. sucrose monostearate; sucrose,

Sacharosecocoat;

Macrogolfettalkoho lether, such. Cetomacrogol 1000, Macrogolcetostearyl ether, Macrogololeyl ether, Lauromacrogol 400;

Sterol alcohols, e.g. Cholesterol, wool wax, acetylated wool wax, hydrogenated

Wool wax, wool wax alcohols;

Macrogolglycerol fatty acid esters, e.g. Macrogol-1000-glycerol monooleate,

Macrogol 1000 glycerol monostearate, Macrogol 1500 glycerol triricinoleate, Macrogol 300 glycerol tris (hydroxystearate), Macrogol 5 glycerol stearate,

hydrogenated castor oil;

Polyglycerol fatty acid esters, e.g. Triglyceroldiisostearat.

In the present invention, the oil phase comprising a substance or mixture of substances suitable for forming lamellar membranes is dispersed with a water phase under conditions which result in the formation of a lamellar phase. If necessary, this is done for example by dispersing under high energy input, such as under ultrasound or by means of High pressure homogenization, wherein pressures of about 50,000 to about 250,000 kilopascals (about 500 to about 2500 bar), preferably about 100,000 to about 150,000 kilopascals (about 1000 to about 1500 bar) are used. In other cases, in particular when using non-hydrogenated lecithin with a low phase transition temperature as a membrane-forming substance, even simple dispersion often suffices without additionally requiring a high energy input. The presence of a lamellar phase can, as stated above, be readily ascertained by a person skilled in the art by means of methods known in the art, such as polarization microscopy.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the membrane-forming substance comprises a phospholipid, such as lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin, and additionally a lipid. More preferably, the phospholipid is a mixture of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of lecithin to hydrogenated lecithin is about 10: 1 to about 1:10, more preferably about 5: 1 to about 1: 5, and even more preferably, the ratio of lecithin to hydrogenated lecithin is about 1: 1. The lipid present in addition to the phospholipid in a preferred embodiment comprises a liquid wax ester such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate or the like. Further optionally other lipids, such as peanut oil or medium chain triglycerides can (preferably Cs-Ci ₂ triglycerides), in addition to the wax Sesterheim be present. The weight ratio of total phospholipid (eg about lecithin + hydrogenated lecithin) to total lipid (eg wax ester + optional triglycerides) in this embodiment is preferably about 1: 5 to about 1: 1, preferably about 1: 2.

The mixture of phospholipid and lipid is dispersed, for example, as a melt with water under a high energy input. The high energy input can be carried out by ultrasound or by high-pressure homogenization, with pressures of 50,000 to 250,000 kilopascals (500 to 2,500 bar), preferably 100,000 to 150,000 kilopascals (1000 to 1500 bar) are used. In the water phase optionally further additives as described in the present specification, such as glycerol or thickening agent (eg xanthan gum and / or hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (hypromellose)) may be present.

Other optional ingredients are listed below in the context of DMS® compositions. In particular, the resulting formulation may be substantially emulsifier-free, preferably emulsifier-free, i. that in the

Formulation substantially no or no conventional emulsifiers are present, wherein the membrane-forming substance or the membrane-forming substance mixture does not apply as a conventional emulsifier. In dispersing this mixture in the manner described, a dispersion is obtained which is suitable for forming as a foam formulation (e.g., using propellant gases or a pump spray) and which further forms a lamellar membrane.

Other base creams that rely on the "skin-like" ingredients described above are also known in the art as DMS® base creams.

The DMS® base compositions may include the following ingredients: caprylic / capric triglyceride, shea butter, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin, palm glycerides, persea gratissima, palm oil (Elaesis guinea sis).

As stabilizers, for example, alcohols or glycols such as pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof may be used in the DMS® compositions. A commercially available DMS® base includes caprylic / capric triglyceride, shea butter, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin and pentylene glycol.

Another commercially available DMS® base includes caprylic acid capric triglyceride, shea butter, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin and alcohol.

Another commercially available DMS® base comprises caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride, shea butter, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin, persea gratissima and caprylyl glycol.

Another commercially available DMS® base comprises caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride, shea butter, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin, palm glycerides, elaesis guinea sis and pentylene glycol.

A preferred DMS® base includes caprylic / capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii, squalane, ceramide 3, hydrogenated lecithin and pentylene glycol.

A particularly preferred caprylic / capric triglyceride is available under the name Miglyol 812 from Sasol and its blending with other oil and wax components.

Furthermore, particularly preferred are the caprylic / capric triglyceride obtainable under the name Miglyol 812 from Sasol / Myritol 312 from Cognis. The emulsions according to the invention preferably contain from 5 to 50% by weight of oil phase, particularly preferably from 10 to 35% by weight and more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight of oil phase. The data are in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion without propellant gas.

These cream compositions are used in particular in irritated, dry to very dry, sensitive to very sensitive, allergic and eczemic skin.

In addition, the oil phase may preferably contain other ingredients, e.g. Fatty acids, especially stearic acid or oils, e.g. Cetiol V included.

In the case of the DMS concentrates and in the formulations according to the invention, preference is given to further (not body-identical) conventional adjuvants such as

Fragrances, dyes, comedogenic lipids (e.g., mineral oils) and physiological emulsifiers are eliminated because they are potentially sensitiser and may cause irritation to the skin.

water phase

The water phase may contain cosmetic adjuvants, e.g. lower alcohols (e.g., ethanol, isopropanol), lower diols or polyols, and their ethers (e.g., propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and ethylene glycol), foam stabilizers, and thickeners.

Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners which are partially water-soluble or at least water-dispersible and in aqueous Systems gels or viscous solutions form. They increase the viscosity of the water either by binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, thereby restricting the mobility of the water. Suitable polymers are, for example:

^■ modified natural products such as cellulose ethers (eg hydroxypropylcellulose ethers, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose ethers); ■ Natural compounds, such as agar-agar, carrageenan,

Polyoses, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein;

^■ Synthetic compounds such as vinyl polymers, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides and derivatives of polyacrylic acid; and ■ inorganic compounds such as polysilicic acid and

Clay minerals.

Preferably, a cellulose ether is included as a thickener in the formulation of the invention. Particular preference is given to hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. A preferred hydroxypropylmethylcellulose according to the invention is Metolose 90SH100. The generic pharmacopoeia for hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is hypromellose.

Another preferred thickener is xanthan gum, especially Keltrol® CG xanthan gum.

The hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and xanthan gum can also be used side by side in the formulation according to the invention. The emulsions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight of thickener (based on the dry weight of the thickener and the total weight of the emulsion without propellant gas). Particularly preferred are 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% thickener.

drugs

The active ingredient contained can be chosen from among all surface-applied on the skin agents and mixtures thereof. The active ingredient may be cosmetic or pharmaceutical. Accordingly, one obtains cosmetic or dermatological (to be used as a medical device or drug product) foam formulations. Furthermore, the formulation can be used to protect the skin from environmental influences. The active substance can be purely vegetable or synthetic. The group of drugs may also be combined with the other ingredient groups, e.g. the oil component, the thickening agents or the solid emulsifiers overlap. For example, some oil components may also serve as active ingredients, e.g. Oils with polyunsaturated fatty acids, or solid emulsifiers, e.g. particulate titanium dioxide can serve as a UV filter. Depending on the property profile, the substances can be assigned to several groups.

Active ingredients of the formulations according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of substances with moisturizing and barrier-strengthening properties, such as, for example, B. hydro viton, a replica of NMF, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycerol,

Sorbitol, propylene glycol and urea, substances from the group of proteins and protein hydrolysates such. As collagen, elastin and silk protein, substances from the group of glucosaminoglucans, such as. B. hyaluronic acid, from the group of Carbohydrates, such as. As pentavidin, which corresponds in composition to the carbohydrate mixture of the human horny layer, and the group of lipids and lipid precursors such as ceramides. Further advantageous agents may be further selected in the context of the present invention from the group of vitamins, such as. As panthenol, niacin, α-tocopherol and its esters, vitamin A and vitamin C. In addition, the active ingredients selected from the group of antioxidants z. G., Galate and polyphenols. Urea, hyaluronic acid and pentavitin are preferred substances.

It is further preferred that substances with skin calming and regenerating action are used as active ingredients, such as. As panthenol, bisabolol and phytosterols.

Advantageous active ingredients in the context of the present invention are also plants and plant extracts. These include e.g. Algae, aloe, arnica, beard braid, comfrey, birch, nettle, calendula, oak, ivy, witch hazel, henna, hops, chamomile, butcher's broom, peppermint, calendula, rosemary, sage, green tea, tea tree, horsetail, thyme and walnut and their extracts.

The preparations according to the invention may also contain as active ingredients antimycotics and antiseptics / disinfinents of synthetic or natural origin.

Other active ingredients are glucocorticoids, antibiotics, analgesics, antiphlogistics, antirheumatics, antiallergic drugs, antiparasitics, antipruriticosa, antipsoriatics, retinoids, local anesthetics, vein therapeutics, keratolytics, hyperemic substances, coronary therapeutics (nitrates / nitro compounds), antivirals, cytostatics, hormones, wound healing promoting agents, eg growth factors, enzyme preparations and insecticides. Other ingredients of the emulsion

The formulations may also optionally contain dyes, pearlescent pigments, fragrances / perfume, photoprotective substances, preservatives,

Complexing agents, antioxidants and repellents and pH regulators included. In a preferred embodiment, however, the formulations of the invention are devoid of ingredients that can cause irritation of the skin, in particular free of fragrances / perfume, dyes and conventional emulsifiers.

The foam formulations according to the invention can contain, in addition to the constituents already mentioned above, further natural fats, such as e.g. Shea butter, neutral oils, olive oil, squalane, ceramides and moisturizers, as are common in the art.

The above enumeration of the individual components of the emulsion should be understood so that individual example components can be assigned to several groups due to their different properties.

propellants

Suitable propellant gases are, for example, N ₂ O, propane, butane and i-butane. The finished foam formulation contains from about 5 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight, of propellant gas. production method

The foam formulations of the present invention are prepared by providing an emulsion, preferably of the oil-in-water type, and filling the emulsion and, optionally, charging propellant gas into a suitable container such as e.g. provided a pressure vessel. As an alternative to the propellant gas and pressure vessel, the emulsion can also be filled into another container, which is also suitable without propellant gas to deliver the emulsion as a foam. Such systems are known to the person skilled in the art.

In particular, the emulsions according to the invention are prepared by a process comprising the following steps:

(1) providing an oil phase optionally comprising at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the formulation,

(2) providing a water phase,

(3) Combine and homogenize, e.g. by ultrasound or high-pressure homogenization of the two phases,

(4) optionally adding at least one or at least one further membrane-forming substance,

(5) Optionally homogenizing such as by ultrasound or high-pressure homogenization to obtain an emulsion, wherein in at least one of the steps (1) or (4) at least one membrane-forming substance is formed, which forms a lamellar membrane in the formulation. The oil phase and the water phase are preferably each at a temperature in the range of about 40 is mixed to about 90 ⁰ C and homogenized, particularly preferred is a temperature range of about 60 to about 80 ⁰ C, more preferably at a temperature of about 70 ⁰ C.

For the homogenization, any means or method known in the art may be used. The phases are preferably homogenized using a high-speed stirrer. In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization is carried out by means of high-pressure homogenization. In another embodiment, the homogenization is assisted by means of ultrasound.

In a preferred production process, the oil phase is stirred into the water phase and homogenized. If necessary, the emulsion is cooled to room temperature with stirring. In a particularly preferred process, a suitable amount of a DMS® concentrate is added to this mixture and the concentrate is incorporated into the present emulsion. The process, which will be described below, can also be carried out with lamellar phases other than the DMS® concentrate.

The DMS® concentrate can be added to the oil phase prior to homogenization with the water phase or added to the mixture after homogenizing the oil and water phase. It is preferred that the DMS® concentrate is added to the mixture after the first homogenization step and the mixture is homogenized.

When the emulsion comprises a thickening agent, the process advantageously comprises the following further steps: (6) providing an aqueous thickener solution

(7) Mixing the thickener solution with the emulsion

Preferably, the erfϊndungsgemäße emulsion is applied with about 10 wt .-% propellant gas.

uses

The foam formulations of the present invention can be used for all cosmetic and dermatological (medical or pharmaceutical) purposes. For example, the formulations could be used as a skin care or skin cleanser. They can also serve as carriers for active ingredients and be used in the medical dermatological field. In particular, the formulations can be used as sunscreen agents.

Examples

Composition of the foam formulation

a) water phase

The water phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients.

b) oil phase

example 1

Example 2

The stearic acid is dissolved under heating to about 70 ⁰ C in Miglyol 812 (Example 1) or in the mixture of Miglyol 812 and Cetiol V (Example 2).

This oil phase is stirred into the water phase and homogenized using a high-speed stirrer. The resulting emulsion is cooled to room temperature with stirring and the DMSO concentrate incorporated with a high speed stirrer. The DMS® concentrate used has the following INCI ingredients:

Aqua (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (and) Pentylene Gly Col (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (and) Glycerol (and) Squalane (and) Ceramides 3

Preparation of foam formulation

90 g of the emulsion prepared in this way are filled into aerosol containers and, after their closure, subjected to a valve cover with 10 g of blowing agent.

Example 3

manufacturing

The mixture of soya lecithin and hydrogenated soya lecithin (eg Phospholipon 80 H and Phospholipon 85 G) are mixed in medium-chain triglycerides (eg Miglyol 812) and isopropyl myristate dissolved at 60 ⁰ C. At high energy input (eg ultrasound or high-pressure homogenization), the lipid melt is dispersed in a mixture of water and glycerol (high-pressure homogenizer: Avestin Emulsiflex-C3, pressure: 1400 bar). Subsequently, the solution of xanthan gum (eg Keltrol CG) and hypromellose (eg Meto loose 90SH 100) in water zugemsicht with stirring.

Preparation of foam formulation

90 g of the membrane-forming emulsion prepared in this way are filled into aerosol containers and, after their closure, subjected to a valve cover with 10 g of blowing agent.

foam generation

A stable, fine-bubble cream foam is formed when removing the foam formulation from the compressed gas package by means of a suitable valve with attached foam applicator. The structure of the cream foam is maintained for a period of time sufficient to evenly distribute the foam on the skin.

Claims

claims

Foam formulation comprising an emulsion comprising an oil phase and a water phase, wherein the oil phase has at least one membrane-forming

Substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the foam formulation.

Foam formulation according to claim 1, wherein the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the at least one membrane-forming substance comprises a lipid, preferably a triglyceride.

Foam formulation according to claim 3, wherein the triglyceride comprises caprylic acid / capric triglyceride.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-4, wherein the lipid further comprises a phospholipid, preferably lecithin.

A foam formulation according to claim 5, wherein the lecithin comprises a hydrogenated lecithin.

A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the emulsion further comprises at least one thickening agent, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, xanthan gum and mixtures of foregoing.

A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the emulsion further comprises a stabilizer.

A foam formulation according to claim 8 wherein the stabilizer comprises pentylene glycol.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-9, wherein the emulsion further includes other conventional ingredients such as shea butter, glycerin, squalane,

Ceramide, preferably ceramide 3 or mixtures of the aforementioned.

A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-10, wherein the emulsion further comprises other conventional ingredients such as oils and greases.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-11, wherein the emulsion further comprises at least one active ingredient.

13. A foam formulation according to claim 12, wherein the active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of hydroviton, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, urea, collagen, elastin, silk protein, hyaluronic acid, pentavitin, ceramides, panthenol , Niacin, α-tocopherol and its esters, vitamin A, vitamin C, galate, polyphenols, panthenol, bisabolol, phytosterols, glucocorticoids, antibiotics, analgesics, antiphlogistics, antirheumatics,

Anti-allergic, antiparasitic, antipruritic, antipsoriatic, retinoid, local anesthetic, veno-therapeutic, keratolytic, hyperemic, coronary (nitrate / nitro), antivirals, Cytostatics, hormones, wound healing promoting agents, growth factors, enzyme preparations, insecticides and plant material such as, or plant extracts of, algae, aloe, arnica, beard lichen, comfrey, birch, stinging nettle, calendula, oak, ivy, witch hazel, henna, hops, chamomile, butcher's broom , Peppermint, calendula, rosemary, sage, greener

Tea, tea tree, horsetail, thyme and walnut or mixtures thereof.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-13, wherein the emulsion is a substantially emulsifier-free emulsion.

Foam formulation according to claims 1-14, wherein the emulsion is emulsifier-free.

The foam formulation of claims 3-15, wherein the lipid comprises body-identical fats.

A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-16, wherein the formulation is a foam cream.

18. A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-17, wherein the emulsion comprises at least one phospholipid and at least one liquid wax ester, preferably in the weight ratio phospholipid: wax ester of 1: 5 to 1: 1, more preferably 1: 2.

Foam formulation according to claim 18, wherein the phospholipid comprises lecithin, preferably a mixture of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin preferably, in the weight ratio of about 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably about 5: 1 to 1: 5, even more preferably about 1: 1; and / or wherein the wax ester is isopropyl myristate; and / or wherein furthermore a triglyceride, preferably a Cs-Ci ₂ triglyceride, is contained.

Foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-19, wherein the membrane-forming substance is insoluble in water.

21. A foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-20, wherein the membrane-forming substance has an HLB value of greater than 8, preferably between 9 to 11, more preferably between 9.5 to 10.5.

22. Use of a foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-21 as a skin care agent.

23. Use of a foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-21 as a skin cleanser.

24. Use of a foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-21 as a sunscreen.

25. Use of a foam formulation according to any one of claims 1-21 for the preparation of a cosmetic, medical device or drug.

26. A process for producing a foam formulation comprising the following steps: a) preparing an emulsion preferably of the oil-in-water type b) filling the emulsion and propellant gas into a pressure vessel, or c) filling the emulsion into a pressure vessel other than a pressure vessel producing a foam when the emulsion is dispensed.

27. The method according to claim 26 for the preparation of a foam formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 21.

28. The method of claim 27, wherein preparing the emulsion comprises the steps of:

(1) providing an oil phase optionally comprising at least one membrane-forming substance which forms a lamellar membrane in the formulation, (2) providing a water phase,

(3) combining and homogenizing the two phases,

(5) Optionally homogenize to obtain an emulsion

wherein in at least one of steps (1) or (4) at least one membrane-forming substance is included which forms a lamellar membrane in the formulation.

29. The method of claim 28, wherein the oil phase and the water phase at a temperature between about 40 to about 90 ⁰ C, preferably between about 60 to about 80 ⁰ C, more preferably about 70 ⁰ C are homogenized.

30. A method according to claim 28 or 29, wherein the emulsion comprises a thickener, further comprising the steps of:

(6) providing an aqueous thickener solution

(7) Mix the thickener solution with the emulsion.

31. The method according to any one of claims 28 to 30, wherein the foam formulation contains 10% by weight of propellant gas.

32. The method according to any one of claims 28 to 30, wherein the homogenization is carried out under high energy input, preferably by means of

High pressure homogenization and / or ultrasound.

A method according to any one of claims 28-30 and 32, wherein the homogenizing is carried out at a pressure of about 50,000 to about 250,000 kilopascals, preferably about 100,000 to 150,000 kilopascals.