DE10214054A1 - Oil-soluble or -dispersible alpha-olefin/maleic anhydride copolymers are used to increase the water-resistance and foaming of sunscreen compositions and O/W emulsions - Google Patents

Abstract

Use is claimed of oil-soluble or -dispersible alpha-olefin/maleic anhydride copolymers in improving the water-resistance of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing conventional UV filters. Independent claims are also included for use of the copolymers in: (1) improving the salt water-, perspiration- and chlorine water-resistances of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing conventional UV filters; (2) improving the water-resistance of O/W formulations; (3) improving the water-resistance of cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing conventional water-soluble UV filters; and (4) reinforcing foaming in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

Description

The present invention relates to waterproof cosmetic and dermatological Sunscreen preparations containing oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible Alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers and the use of such Substances to increase the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological Sunscreen preparations.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. Depending on their respective wavelength, the rays have different effects on the organ skin:

The so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength between 100 and 280 nm absorbed by the ozone layer of the earth's atmosphere and is found accordingly not in the sun spectrum. It is therefore of no physiological importance Sunbathing.

The so-called UV-B range is between 290 nm and 320 nm. UV-B rays are essential for long-lasting tanning of the skin, but can at the same time an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less cause severe burns. Also chronic light damage, photodermatosis and herpes solaris can be caused by UV-B radiation.

It has long been erroneously assumed that the boring UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm only a negligible one has biological effects and accordingly the UV-B rays for most Light damage to human skin are responsible. In the meantime, however proven by numerous studies that UV-A radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the Skin is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation. The harmful influence of UV-B radiation can be intensified by UV-A radiation.

So it is u. a. proved that even the UV-A radiation under normal Everyday conditions are sufficient to quickly reduce the collagen and elastin fibers damage that are essential for the structure and firmness of the skin. This leads to chronic light-related skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely. The clinical appearance of light-aged skin is part of it for example folds and wrinkles as well as an irregular, furrowed relief. Further the areas affected by light-induced skin aging can become irregular Have pigmentation. Even the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even Carcinoma or malignant melanoma is possible. One through everyday UV exposure prematurely aged skin is also characterized by a lower activity of the Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A Rays. While the UV-B radiation is strong depending on numerous factors varies (e.g. time of year and day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains Relative to day and day or geographic factors day by day constant. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living Epidermis, while about 70% of UV-B rays come from the horny layer be held back.

The more recent findings on the effect of UV-A rays on the skin have this led that the protective measures for this radiation area now increased Devotes attention. Virtually no sun protection product comes without effective UV-A filter effect off, pure UV-B filter preparations are rare.

When applying a sunscreen to the skin, the ultraviolet Rays are weakened by two effects: firstly by reflection and scattering the rays on the surface of powdery solids (physical Light protection) and on the other hand by absorption on chemical substances (chemical Sunscreen). Depends on which wavelength range is absorbed one between UV-B filters (absorption range 280 to 320 nm), UV-A filters (Absorption range 320 to 400 nm) and broadband filters (absorption range 290 to approx. 380 nm).

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation, and their Absorption maximum should be around 308 nm if possible, since this is the highest The erythema effect of solar radiation is present. Typical UV-B filters are e.g. B. Derivatives of 3- Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, des Benzophenone and also of 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Some compounds are also known for protection against UV-A radiation, such as especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives. However, dibenzoylmethane derivatives are usually not photostable, which is why cosmetic or dermatological preparations with one The content of this substance expediently also includes certain UV stabilizers should contain. Other known UV-A filter substances are certain water-soluble, sulfonated UV filter substances, such as. B. Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5.5- tetrasulfonic acid and its salts.

In addition to pure UV-A or UV-B filters, there are substances that cover both areas cover. This group of broadband filters includes, for example, asymmetrical substituted s-triazine compounds, such as. B. that 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine), certain benzophenones, e.g. B. that 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (INCI: Benzophenone 3) or the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylenebutylphenol).

In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very high well known and documented, especially in most industrialized countries positive lists for the use of such substances exist, which are quite strict standards Create documentation. Since not only the position of the filter substance is used to characterize it Absorption maximums, but especially the absorption range is important from absorption spectra recorded for each substance. For dosing the substances in the finished formulations, however, the absorbance values can at most be one Offer guidance, because of interactions with ingredients of the skin or Skin surface itself can cause imponderables. Furthermore, as a rule difficult to estimate in advance how uniform and in what layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.

The IPD method is usually used to test UV-A protection (IPD immediate pigment darkening). Here - similar to the determination of the Sun protection factor - a value determined, indicating how much longer the one with the Sunscreen-protected skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same Pigmentation occurs like unprotected skin.

The use concentration known as solid Light protection filter substances, which also have a high filter effect, especially in the UV-A range however often - especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved - limited. It therefore presents certain formulation difficulties, higher ones To achieve sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

Since light protection filter substances are usually expensive and some Sunscreen filter substances also difficult in higher concentrations in cosmetic or to incorporate dermatological preparations, it was an object of the invention to simple and inexpensive way to get preparations that are unusual low concentrations of conventional UV filter substances nevertheless a achieve acceptable or even high UV-A and / or UV-B protection performance.

Emulsions also play a role in the field of sun protection formulations decisive role. Flowable or low-viscosity emulsions are preferred because they are easier to apply than viscous creams.

Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sporting activities (Sweating) applied, which is why the water resistance of such formulations is of particular importance. A waterproof sunscreen protects the user not only after bathing, but also saves him during the Bathing before a sunburn. It is a common misconception that water is a good one or even provides adequate protection against ultraviolet radiation. Rather have it Investigations showed that the permeability was still 1 m below the water surface for UV-B rays is approximately 50%. It is therefore advisable that water sports enthusiasts, which z. B. swim, surf or snorkel, and especially children who often play for hours on or in the water, the skin with a well-adhering, through Water and sweat difficult to rinse off sun product before too intense and Protect excessive sunlight.

In order to achieve high sun protection factors with very good water resistance, W / O formulations are usually an advantage. However, W / O emulsions show often unsatisfactory cosmetic properties: when used, they can leave a greasy, shiny and sometimes sticky impression on the skin and are difficult to spread, especially on hairy skin.

O / W emulsions, on the other hand, have a less greasy effect on the skin, are rather matting and are quickly absorbed into the skin. They are generally perceived by the consumer as lighter and more cosmetically elegant than W / O emulsions. Since water is the outer phase, O / W emulsions are usually only partially waterproof. In order to improve the water resistance of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, it can be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations. According to the prior art, z. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVPNA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF), C _{20 -40} carboxylic acid with polyethylene (Performacid 350 from New Phase Technologies) and film former from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP):

Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone are particularly preferably used, for example the PVP Hexadecen Copolymer and the PVP Eicosen Copolymer, which under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation are available, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

However, a disadvantage of such preparations is that which film formers are effective (i.e. increasing the water resistance) contain concentration that at the Application on the skin leaves a sticky and greasy impression.

In addition to the influence of the basis, the binding ability of the UV filter is also in or on the skin of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understandable that oil-soluble UV filters better on the (lipophilic) surface of the skin are bound or more difficult to wash off than water-soluble UV filters.

Another object of the invention was therefore to provide a simple and inexpensive way Preparations (especially O / W formulations), which are characterized by have good water resistance. In particular, preparations should be found which have a high content of water-soluble UV filters and still show very good water resistance.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that the use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha olefin / maleic anhydride Copolymers to improve the water resistance of cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one common UV filter substance, would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

It was also surprising that the use of oil-soluble and / or in oils dispersible alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers to improve Water resistance of O / W formulations the disadvantages of the prior art would help.

It was also particularly surprising that the use of oil-soluble and / or alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers dispersible in oils for Improving the water resistance of cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one common water-soluble UV filter substance, the disadvantages of the prior art would help.

The preparations according to the present invention represent in every respect extremely satisfactory preparations, which are not restricted to a limited choice of raw materials are limited. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to be used as a basis for Forms of preparation to serve a variety of uses. The preparations according to the present invention show very good sensory and cosmetic Properties such as the spreadability on the skin or the Absorbency in the skin, and are also characterized by a very good sun protection effectiveness, a extremely high UV-A and / or UV-B protection and excellent Water resistance combined with excellent skin care data. It was In particular, it is surprising that conventional film formers, which are based on the prior art can be used to increase water resistance, can be dispensed with entirely.

It was particularly surprising that the use of oil-soluble and / or in Oils dispersible alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers also the UV-A or UV-B protection performance of cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one conventional UV filter substance improved since the invention substances used themselves do not show any absorption performance in the UV range.

So far, there is no Europe-wide binding method for determining the Waterproofness of cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations, however the prior art knows a number of possible examination methods: the preparation to be examined is applied to the skin and the Sun protection factor determined. Then you let water act on the skin for a certain time and then determines the sun protection factor again. This basic principle of Measurement is the same for all methods. However, there are differences in the details the experimental setup such as the type of contact (pool / whirlpool or Gush shower), the duration of the water exposure, the water temperature or the Type of water used (tap, salt or chlorine water).

• - Auftrag von 2 mg/cm² der zu untersuchenden Zubereitung auf zwei Hautareale (vorzugsweise am Rücken des Probanden)
• - 15- bis 30-minütiges Einwirken (Warten)
• - Bestimmung des (ursprünglich vorhandenen) Lichtschutzsfaktors an einem der beiden Areale
• - 2 × 20-minütiger Kontakt mit Wasser (Leitungswasser) im Whirlpool bei 25 bis 35°C (mindestens 15 Minuten Pause zwischen den Bädern)
• - 15- bis 30-minütiges Trocknen (Warten)
• - Bestimmung des Lichtschutzsfaktors am anderen der beiden Areale

For the purposes of the present invention, preparations are referred to as waterproof which, according to the following test, still have at least 50% of the sun protection factor originally present:

• - Application of 2 mg / cm ^{2 of} the preparation to be examined on two areas of the skin (preferably on the back of the subject)
• - 15- to 30-minute exposure (wait)
• - Determination of the (originally available) sun protection factor in one of the two areas
• - 2 × 20-minute contact with water (tap water) in the whirlpool at 25 to 35 ° C (at least 15 minutes break between the baths)
• - 15 to 30 minutes drying (waiting)
• - Determination of the sun protection factor at the other of the two areas

The above-mentioned criterion for the water resistance of the tested product results accordingly from the quotient of the sun protection factors (LSIF) determined before and after exposure to water:

It was particularly surprising that the preparations within the meaning of the present Invention also against salt water (sea water, sweat) and even chlorinated Water (swimming pool) are waterproof and therefore also sweat-resistant or chlorine resistant.

Alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers according to the invention are copolymers of one or more alpha olefins and maleic anhydride, where can be advantageous if other monomers are copolymerized into the copolymer will / have been.

This is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention under the Trade name "Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer, CAS-No .: 75535-27-2) Alpha available from "New Phase Technologies" Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymer.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention contain - based on the total weight of the preparations - advantageously 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of one or more alpha Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers.

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention can preferably be in addition to a or one or more oil phases additionally contain one or more water phases and for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also be microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called Mousse), solid emulsions (i.e., emulsions stabilized by solids are, e.g. B. Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or be aqueous / alcoholic solutions.

(Macroscopic) two-phase or multi-phase systems are also in accordance with the invention advantageous. "Two or more phases" in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are stacked separately. It is special advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopic visible phases is a (W / O, O / W, micro) emulsion. The emulsion is at perceived this (macroscopic) consideration as a phase, although it is the It is of course known to those skilled in the art that emulsions per se consist of two or more homogenized phases are formed. The "emulsion phase" is long-term stable, see above that there is no segregation even over a long period (months, years) or phase separation within the emulsion.

The macroscopically visible phases or layers can be advantageous - for Example by shaking - briefly emulsify to a homogeneous emulsion, which but is not stable over the long term, but rather over a period of minutes, Hours or days again in two or more phases stacked on top of each other unmixed. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a microemulsion and at least one another of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.

Sprayable emulsions, especially microemulsions

Sprayable are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention O / W emulsions, especially O / W microemulsions.

The droplet diameters of the usual "simple", ie non-multiples Emulsions range from about 1 µm to about 50 µm. Such "macro emulsions" are without other coloring additives, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macro emulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 0.5 µm to approx. 1 µm, again without coloring additives, bluish white colored and opaque. Such "macro emulsions" usually have a high viscosity.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions in the sense of the present invention on the other hand is in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are bluish white colored to translucent and mostly low viscosity. The viscosity of many Microemulsions of the O / W type are comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances are much finer in the disperse phase can be dispersed than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". On Another advantage is that they are sprayable due to their low viscosity. Become Corresponding products are characterized by microemulsions used as cosmetics high cosmetic elegance.

• - ihre Lipophilie ist abhängig von der Temperatur, dergestalt daß durch Erhöhung der Temperatur die Lipophilie zunimmt und durch Senkung der Temperatur die Lipophilie des Emulgators abnimmt.

O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and which contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention:

• - Their lipophilicity depends on the temperature, such that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature.

Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, Isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth-9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, palmity) Glycosides etc.).

If the phase inversion is essentially initiated by varying the temperature O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions, are available, the Size of the oil droplets essentially by the concentration of the or emulsifiers used is determined such that a higher emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration to larger droplets leads. The droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

In the sense of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers that do not fall under the definition of emulsifier A, for example to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here z. B. alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), W / O emulsifiers (such as, for example, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3-polyglycerol, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl) -3 diisostearate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, acrylate C _10-30 -alkyl acrylate-crcsspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, dipolyglyceryl-4 PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetylphosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8-phosphate, cetearyl) sulfate be used.

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions in the sense of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions, which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the Preparation is stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily Must contain emulsifiers, but can contain one or more emulsifiers.

Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR1, TR2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations. Are carbopole Polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Examples of advantageous carbopoles are types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984, as well as the ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Other advantageous gelling agents for such preparations are xanthan Gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.

Possible (optional) emulsifiers are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated Fatty acids (especially PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or others non-ionic surface-active substances can be used.

• - mindestens einen Silikonemulgator (W/S) mit einem HLB-Wert ≤ 8 und/oder mindestens einen W/O-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert < 7 und
• - mindestens einen O/W-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert > 10 enthalten.

Furthermore, the very thin to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous

• - At least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value ≤ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and
• - Contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10.

Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the Lipid phase advantageously also contain silicone oils or can even consist entirely of such oils. The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of Alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols can be selected (e.g. dimethicone copolyols, which from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97], Laurylmethicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd. I Dow Corning © 5200 Formulation Aid], Octyl Dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [from Wacker].

The W / O emulsifier (s) with an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryi-3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methylglucose dioleate, methylglucose dioleate Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 - alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be obtained from the following Group can be selected: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40- Castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, Sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, Propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40- Stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium Cetylstearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, Steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, Glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4- Phosphate, polyglyceryl methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isosteareth-10, Polyglyceryl-2-sesquíisostearate, ceteth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate mixed with Ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetyl stearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can range from 0% by weight Contain 90 wt .-% ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can be used in the sense of present invention advantageously also contain solubilizers, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be used as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with which in particular water-insoluble substrates - such as B. woven or non-woven wipes - are moistened, be used. Such impregnation solutions are preferably thin, especially sprayable (such as PIT emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa.s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa.s (measuring device: Haake Viskotester VT- 02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sunscreen wipes, Wipes and the like are available, which combine the soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological Represent impregnation solution.

oils

The preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes. Advantageous oils are e.g. B. synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyl dodecanol and the like. Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (eg N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous.

foams

Are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention self - foaming, foam - like, post - foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

Under "self-foaming", "foam-like", "post-foaming" or "foamable" are Preparations to understand what foams - be it during the Manufacturing process, be it by the consumer or in any other way - Can be produced by introducing one or more gases in principle. In such Foam the gas bubbles are distributed (arbitrarily) in one (or more) liquid Phase (s) before, the (foamed) preparations macroscopically not necessarily have the appearance of a foam. invention (foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations (hereinafter the For the sake of simplicity also referred to as foams). B. macroscopically visible represent dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids. The Foam character can, for example, only be seen under a (light) microscope become. In addition, foams according to the invention - especially when the Gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - even on the strong increase in volume of the system can be seen.

It was particularly surprising and is also based on inventive step that by using the alpha olefin / maleic anhydride according to the invention Copolymers support the entry of gases as well as over a longer storage period as well at higher temperatures (e.g. 40 ° C) a stabilizing as well as clearly foam-increasing effect can be achieved. It was particularly amazing that the use of special surfactants can be dispensed with. The entry of Gases are surprisingly extraordinary compared to the prior art elevated. For example, a foam reinforcement with up to 100% increased Gas volumes can be achieved without conventional foaming agents such as To use surfactants.

This enables recipes with a high gas volume (air and / or others Gases such as oxygen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, helium, argon and the like a.) over a long storage period generate stable at high temperatures.

The subject of the invention is therefore furthermore
the use of one or more alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers for foam reinforcement of self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

For the purposes of the present invention, “foam reinforcement” is understood to mean that the entry of gases in the foams according to the invention compared to the entry in otherwise the same preparations which do not have any alpha according to the invention Contain olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers, is extremely increased. The Foams according to the invention can accordingly have a significantly higher gas volume take up as preparations that do not alpha according to the invention Contain olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers.

By "foam reinforcement" is also meant that the stability of the foamed preparations (the "foam stability") compared to otherwise the same Preparations which do not contain alpha olefin / maleic anhydride according to the invention Contain copolymers, is significantly improved, d. H. by the invention Use of the foams is delayed in time.

• A) mindestens einem Emulgator A, gewählt aus der Gruppe der ganz-, teil- oder nicht neutralisierten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• B) mindestens einem Emulgator B, gewählt aus der Gruppe der polyethoxylierten Fettsäurester mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen und mit einem Ethoxylierungsgrad von 5 bis 100 und
• C) mindestens einem Coemulgator C, gewählt aus der Gruppe der gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Fettalkohole mit einer Kettenlänge von 10 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen besteht.

For the purposes of the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of

• A) at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• B) at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
• C) at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

The emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of Fatty acids which are wholly or partly with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or Potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) are neutralized. For example, stearic acid and stearates are particularly advantageous. Isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates as well as myristic acid and Myristate.

The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 Glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG 30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG 20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Are particularly advantageous for example polyethoxylated stearic acid esters.

According to the invention, the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ₁₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C ₁₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols) , which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous according to the invention to increase the weight ratios of Emuigator A. Select emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c can independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

It is advantageous, in the sense of the present invention, for the total amount of Emulsifiers A and B and co-emulsifier C from the range of 2 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

Pickering / solid stabilized emulsions

Cosmetic or are also particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention dermatological preparations, which only consist of finely divided solid particles are stabilized. Such "emulsifier free" emulsions are also called Pickering emulsions designated.

The solid substance accumulates in the Pickering emulsions Phase boundary oil / water in the form of a layer, which causes a confluence of the disperse phases is prevented. In particular, the Surface properties of the solid particles, which are both hydrophilic and should show lipophilic properties.

The stabilizing solid particles can also advantageously be superficial treated to be water-repellent ("coated"), with an amphiphilic character Solid particles are formed or should be preserved. The surface treatment can be in it exist that the solid particles by a known method with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer are provided.

The average particle diameter of the microfine used as a stabilizer Solid particles are preferably smaller than 100 μm, particularly advantageously smaller than 50 μm selected. It is essentially irrelevant in what form (platelets, sticks, Beads etc.) or modification of the solid particles used.

• - Titandioxide (gecoatet und ungecoatet): z. B. Eusolex T-2000 von der Fa. Merck, Titandioxid MT-100 Z von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• - Zinkoxide z. B. Z-Cote und Z-Cote HP1 von der BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 und MZ-505M von der Fa. Tayca Corporation
• - Eisenoxide

The microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:

• - Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation
• - Zinc oxides e.g. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation
• - iron oxides

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles from the following Group can be selected: boron nitride, starch derivatives (Tapioca Starch, Sodium Corn Starch Octynyl succinate etc.), talc, latex particles.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the solid-stabilized emulsions are clear contain or even less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers are completely emulsifier free.

pencils

Preparations in the form of pens are also advantageous for the purposes of the invention. Technically speaking, most pen formulations are anhydrous fat blends from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, whereby highly purified Paraffin oils and waxes represent the base of the stick.

Common base materials for stick-like preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite) and / or high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax). Water-containing stick-like preparations are also known per se, although these can also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic or dermatological Sun protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological Compositions within the meaning of the present invention, for example, can be used as a skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream etc. It is optionally possible and advantageous, the compositions according to the invention as Use base for pharmaceutical formulations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations are used in the for cosmetics usual way on the skin and / or the hair in sufficient quantity applied.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, Bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, Oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives in the sense of the present invention are For example, formaldehyde releasers (such as DMDM hydantoin, which, for example, under the trade name Glydant ™ is available from Lonza), Iodopropylbutylcarbamate (e.g. those sold under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S by Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (i.e. p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), Phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. This usually includes Preservation system according to the invention also advantageously preservation aids such as for example octoxyglycerin, glycine soy etc.

Advantageous complexing agents in the sense of the present invention are, for example EDTA, [S, S] -Ethylenediamindisuccinat (EDDS), which, for example, under the Trade name Octaquest is available from Octel, Pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonate, which, for. B. under the trade name Dequest 2046 from is available from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. from the company Bayer AG under the trade name Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is permanently available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained when added or Active ingredients antioxidants are used. According to the Preparations advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional Antioxidants to be used can all be for cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications suitable or customary antioxidants can be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble ones can be particularly advantageous Antioxidants are used, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and their derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A. and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, the respective concentrations of which range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or the antioxidants are advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, wherein preferred active ingredients are antioxidants, which protect the skin from oxidative stress can protect.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural Active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic Isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or β-alanine and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such Flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like are particularly suitable for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at the Skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of Wrinkles due to dryness, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and training of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. Age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of the dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can be advantageous Contain conventional cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular such a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, Butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or -monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes as well in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which advantageously selected can be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the Group of the so-called Carbopole [from Bf. Goodrich], for example Carbopole types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, respectively individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously also Contain self-tanning substances, such as dihydroxyacteon and / or Melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.

The preparations according to the present invention can also be advantageous Repellents to protect against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like are included. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-Diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadelphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and especially ethyl 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (under the Trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 available from Merck). The repellents can can be used both individually and in combination.

Substances or mixtures of substances are referred to as moisturizers, which are cosmetic or give dermatological preparations the property after application or Distribute the release of moisture from the horny layer on the skin surface (also reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and / or hydration To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers in the sense of the present invention are, for example Glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, especially sodium lactate, butylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to polymerize moisturizers from the Group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or with the help of To use water gellable polysaccharides. Are particularly advantageous for example hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which in the Chemical Abstracts filed under registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available from SOLABIA S.A. under the name Fucogel®1000. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle agents for prophylaxis and Treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. at the Skin aging occur.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can further advantageous, although not mandatory, contain fillers which, for. B. the further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and for example, to create or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as z. B. tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenyl succinate and the like), pigments that have neither primarily UV filter nor coloring effect have (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the Group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and Fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, Palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, Macadamia nut oil and the like.

According to the invention, z. B. natural animal and waxes of vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, as well Berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

Further advantageous polar oil components can be used for the purposes of the present invention furthermore selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such Ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, Octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodekanol, cetearyl isononanoate, Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n- Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, Tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and Dialkyl carbonates, z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC from Fa. Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component or components from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C _12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12- aryl triethyl, di-C _12-13 aryl Hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), Hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in To use the sense of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, especially mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), Paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

The oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils have or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred besides the silicone oil or oils an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula


are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are for example dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl) are also advantageous Trimethicones), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also called cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene Copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which as various Abil-Wax types are available from Th. Goldschmidt. But others too Silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

• a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten,
  wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24 -Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
• b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind,
  wobei die verwendeten Mengenanteile so gewählt werden, daß die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2)
  • - im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und
  • - im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• a) siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ ,
  where the individual radicals R each independently represent hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
• b) siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups,
  the proportions used are chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • - Is in the range of 1 to 20 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and
  • - Is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

The siloxane elastomer (s) are advantageous in the sense of the present invention In the form of spherical powder or in the form of gels.

Advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade name DOW CORNING 9506 powder available.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is combined with oils Hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof is used.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with unbranched silicone oils that are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic Silicone oils or their mixtures is used. Are particularly advantageous Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, whole especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, available from Grant Industries Inc. DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 Gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is in the form of a gel from siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase is used, the content of the Siloxane elastomer in the gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, each based on the total weight of the gel.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to determine the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose. The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which applied to the face, it is beneficial to dye one or more Select substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'- phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and Barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4- Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and Zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, β-carotene or Cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z. B.
  • - "Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
  • - "Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.
  • - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
  • - "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or Castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Z are particularly preferred. B. from the Merck company under the trade names Pearlescent pigments available from Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be beneficial to move entirely towards a substrate such as mica dispense. Iron pearlescent pigments are particularly preferred, which without the Be made using mica. Such pigments are e.g. B. under the Trade names Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 available from BASF.

Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which under the Trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) from are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are mixed with them various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and be mutually coated with one another, with different Coating thicknesses are generally caused by different color effects. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, chosen in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparations.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against Sunlight is, but still contains other UV protection substances contain. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well Antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the Preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain within the meaning of the present invention preferably at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The Formulations may, although not necessary, also include an or contain several organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously in Form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV liquid that is liquid at room temperature Contain filter substance as a further phase and which in particular advantageously also free of other oil components.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances liquid at room temperature in the sense of present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4- methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis Ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol® SLX.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be in the form commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions are used. These predispersions can advantageously be dispersing agents and / or Solubilization promoters may be added.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer. The various surface coatings can be used in the sense of the present Invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n, silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Advantageous according to the invention Latex particles are those described in the following documents: US 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which consist of water and Styrene / acrylate copolymers are formed and z. B. under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" are available from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

• - Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonat (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• - 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfatoverbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4- di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4-di ( 2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are characterized by the following structural formula,


wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3, 5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula


distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

The one or more benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if if the or the benzoxazole derivatives in pigmentary, d. H. undissolved form - for example in particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm.

• - R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• - R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Aikyl Rest bedeutet.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:


wherein

• - R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• - R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:


and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• - 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxypheny()-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxylphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3 V erhältlich ist;
• - 4,4',4"-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltrümino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL® T 150 vertrieben wird;
• - 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725- 22-6).

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxypheny () - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3 V;
• - 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150;
• - 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also that 2,2-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (INCI: methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) which, for. B. under the trade name Tinosorb® M is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is that 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3- Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon sowie
• - an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
• - UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Qxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts.

Another light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is the ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the Name Uvinul® N 539 T is available.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are: characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, contained in addition to the or the filter substance (s) according to the invention preferably further UV-A and / or Broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) - 3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any Combinations with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The preparations according to the present invention advantageously contain the Substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in one Total amount of e.g. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin protect the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also advantageously be further Contain substances that increase the water resistance of the products.

For example, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (CTFA name: Polaxamers, CAS No. 9003-11-6) with the following structure are advantageous:


where x, y and z represent integers from the range from 2 to 130, in particular from 15 to 100 and x and z are the same, but are chosen independently of y.

Among these are in particular Polaxamer 188 [with x = 75, y = 30 and z = 75], which under the trade name Lutrol F 68 (old: Pluronic F 68) from BASF the polyxamer 185 [with x = 19, y = 30 and z = 19] (Lubrajel WA from ISP), the polyxamer 235 [with x = 27, y = 39 and z = 27] (Pluronic F 85 from BASF) and / or the Polyxamer 238 [with x = 97, y = 39 and z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 from BASF) advantageous to use.

Further advantageous substances which can contribute to increasing the water resistance but are incorporated into the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention are certain wax components, such as acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (e.g. Unitwix from ISP with the INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearate and Tristearin), C _18-36 fatty acid triglyceride (e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride) and also those under the trade name "Perfroma V 825" (synergic wax) from New Phase Technologies available substance as well as PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer), PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer), methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer) use which are available from AKZO Nobel.

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention that according to the invention used polymers with one or more of the substances mentioned combine to further improve the water resistance of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples

• - UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]j-6-(2- ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin [CAS Nr. 288254-16-0]
• - Uvinul® A Plus = 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon)

1. O/W Sonnenschutz Emulsionen



2. schaumförmige O/W-Emulsionen



In the following examples means:

• - UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] j-6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5- triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0]
• - Uvinul® A Plus = 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone)

1. O / W sun protection emulsions



2. Foam-shaped O / W emulsions

Combination of the grease / light protection filter phase heated to 78 ° C with the water / light protection filter phase heated to 75 ° C. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring in the Becomix while gassing with helium at 1 bar with cooling to 30 ° C. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 23 ° C. 3. PIT emulsions (for use as an impregnation solution, spray or aerosol)





4. Low-viscosity to sprayable W / O emulsions (for use as a soaking solution , fluid, spray or aerosol)



5. W / O sun protection emulsions (creams & lotions)





6. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)



7. Solid stabilized emulsions





8. Oils and oil gels



9. Sun protection pens (for lips and / or face)



10. W / O sun protection pens (for lips and / or face)

Claims (14)

1. Use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha olefin 1 Maleic anhydride copolymers to improve water resistance cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one usual UV filter substance. 2. Use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers to improve the water resistance of O / W formulations. 3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the O / W formulation is an emulsion or a hydrodispersion. 4. Use according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the O / W formulation is a microemulsion. 5. Use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers to improve water resistance cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one conventional one water-soluble UV filter substance. 6. Use of one or more alpha olefin I maleic anhydride copolymers for foam reinforcement self-foaming, foam-like, after-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations - based on her Total weight - 0.05 to 7% by weight of one or more alpha Contain olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations as UV-A Filter substance one or more water-soluble UV-A filter substances, especially water-soluble UV-A filter substances selected from the group phenylene-1,4-bis- (2- benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, Potassium or triethanolammonium salts and / or the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially that Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological light protection preparations contain at least one UV filter substance, selected from the following group:
water-soluble UV filter substances, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature, organic and / or inorganic pigments, broad-band filters (such as bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives, in particular the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine) and / or benzotriazoles. 10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that the cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations at least a UV filter substance selected from the benzoxazole derivatives (especially that 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino- 1,3,5-triazine and / or from the group of the hydroxybenzophenones (in particular the 2- (4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester) contains. 11. Use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers to improve salt water resistance and / or the sweat resistance of cosmetic or dermatological Formulations containing at least one common UV filter substance. 12. Use of oil-soluble and / or oil-dispersible alpha Olefin / maleic anhydride copolymers to improve chlorine resistance cosmetic or dermatological formulations containing at least one usual UV filter substance. 13. Use according to at least one of the preceding claims, thereby characterized in that the alpha olefin / maleic anhydride copolymer the C30-38 Olefin / isopropyl maleate / MA copolymer (CAS No. 75535-27-2). 14. Use according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains further substances which increase the water resistance of the preparations, in particular substances selected from the group consisting of:
water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (in particular Polaxamer 188),
acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: Acetylated Glycol Stearate and Tristearin),
C _18-36 fatty acid triglyceride (INCI: C18-36 acid triglyceride) as well
Polyoxyethylene / polydocecyl glycol block polymers, especially the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer.