CN112626677B - Moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN112626677B CN112626677B CN202011545322.6A CN202011545322A CN112626677B CN 112626677 B CN112626677 B CN 112626677B CN 202011545322 A CN202011545322 A CN 202011545322A CN 112626677 B CN112626677 B CN 112626677B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
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- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
- D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/18—Synthetic fibres consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/24—Polymers or copolymers of alkenylalcohols or esters thereof; Polymers or copolymers of alkenylethers, acetals or ketones
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
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- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/10—Physical properties porous
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/13—Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
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Abstract
The application relates to the field of garment materials, and particularly discloses a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile material and a production process thereof. The fabric comprises segment color yarns and Sirofil yarns; the segment of colored yarn comprises a first roving and a second roving; the first roving comprises first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and PVA fibers; the second roving comprises second colored antibacterial nylon fibers and tencel fibers; the sirofil yarn comprises a third roving yarn and a colored chinlon ATY filament yarn; the preparation method of the fabric comprises the following steps: taking the sectional color yarns and the sirofil yarns as warp yarns, and performing sectional warping, sizing and drafting; weaving the segment color yarn and the Sirofil yarn in an air jet weaving mode; and (3) shaping, desizing, softening and tentering the fabric, adjusting the pH value of the fabric, and finally performing preshrinking. The fabric has the advantages of strong moisture absorption and air permeability, strong antibacterial property, high softness and high comfort.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the field of garment materials, in particular to a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile material and a production process thereof.
Background
The existing clothes consist of three elements, namely clothes style, clothes color and clothes fabric, wherein the clothes fabric is used for making clothes and is the most basic element, and the clothes fabric can explain the style and the characteristics of the clothes and can directly control the expression effect of the color and the shape of the clothes. The common garment fabric has the characteristics of comfort in wearing, sweat absorption, air permeability, stiff and smooth suspension, noble vision, soft touch and the like.
Along with the improvement of the life quality of people, the wearing requirements of people are higher and higher, the attractive appearance is required, the comfort degree of the garment fabric is also emphasized, and the moisture absorption and air permeability of the garment fabric are one of important indexes for measuring the comfort degree of the garment fabric. Especially in summer, the human body can continuously discharge sweat due to high environmental temperature, and nearly 50% of the sweat discharged by the human body can be adsorbed by the underwear. If the moisture absorption and air permeability of the garment material are poor, sweat cannot be absorbed and discharged quickly, so that the relative humidity between a human body and clothes is increased, the clothes can be adhered to the human body, the stuffiness feeling of the human body is increased, and the comfort is poor. Therefore, the improvement of the moisture absorption and air permeability of the garment fabric is particularly important for improving the comfort performance of the garment fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to improve the moisture absorption and air permeability of the fabric and further improve the comfort of the fabric, the application provides the moisture absorption and air permeability novel textile fabric and the production process thereof.
First aspect, the application provides a novel moisture absorption breathable textile fabric, adopts following technical scheme:
a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric comprises section color yarns and Sirofil yarns; the segment of colored yarn comprises a first roving and a second roving;
the first roving comprises 50-65% of first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and 35-50% of PVA fiber in mass fraction;
the second roving comprises 30-70% by mass of second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and 30-70% by mass of tencel fiber;
the sirofil yarn comprises 35-50% of third roving and 50-65% of colored chinlon ATY filament; and the third roving adopts PVA fiber.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the PVA fibre that this application adopted has the water-solubility, can regard as the fibre that can be got rid of by water in the surface fabric under specific temperature for the surface fabric is at the back stage destarch in-process, because the PVA fibre is dissolved, and section colored yarn and sirofil yarn take place to relax, make the density of surface fabric become rare, has realized local burnt out effect, has improved the air permeability of surface fabric, thereby has improved the travelling comfort of surface fabric. And after the PVA fiber mixed with the colored nylon ATY filament is dissolved, the colored nylon ATY filament is bent, loosened and the like, and has the effect of yarn wrinkling.
Simultaneously this application is with the first coloured antibiotic polyamide fibre of the specific use amount scope of PVA fibre collocation, section various yarn is made to the mixing of day silk fibre and the coloured antibiotic polyamide fibre of second, and make the colored polyamide fibre ATY filament mixing of the specific use amount scope of PVA fibre collocation into the siro-field yarn, utilize the good heat conductivity of above-mentioned fibre and filament, bacterinertness and moisture absorption gas permeability, make section various yarn have excellent moisture absorption gas permeability and antibiotic performance, let human exhaust sweat can be absorbed fast and go out, make keep dry and comfortable between human and the surface fabric, restrain breeding of bacterium simultaneously, and day silk fibre can also improve the compliance and the drapability of surface fabric, the travelling comfort of surface fabric has further been improved. Meanwhile, the PVA fiber is dissolved, and the fabric can be fluffy, so that the fabric is more comfortable. In addition, the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the second colored antibacterial nylon fiber have different colors, and the contrast of the application is not particularly limited, and the skilled person can set the colors at will according to the design requirements of the fabric color.
In conclusion, the section color yarns and the sirofil yarns with the water-soluble PVA fibers are used as the warp yarns and the weft yarns, the density of the fabric is thinned after the PVA fibers are dissolved, and the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers, the tencel fibers, the second colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the colored nylon ATY filaments are matched, so that the prepared fabric has excellent moisture absorption and air permeability and antibacterial property, and the comfort of the fabric is improved.
Preferably, the segment color yarn is prepared by the following method:
a. first roving preparation
a1. Firstly, pre-loosening first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and PVA fiber, then adding wool blending oil, uniformly mixing the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the PVA fiber, blending the wool for 2-3 times, and standing for 8-12 hours to obtain blended raw materials; wherein the usage amount of the wool oil is 1.5-5% of the total mass of the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the PVA fiber;
a2. the raw materials after wool blending are subjected to opening, cotton carding, two-pass drawing and roving processes in sequence to obtain first roving;
b. second roving preparation
Mixing the second colored antibacterial polyamide fiber and tencel fiber, and then sequentially carrying out blowing-carding, secondary drawing and roving processes to obtain second roving;
c. preparation of segment-color yarn
And (3) after the first roving and the second roving are subjected to a spinning process, obtaining the section color yarn with the specification of 18.5tex, which is composed of a first roving section, a first roving/second roving transition section and a second roving section.
Preferably, in the step c, the mass fraction of the first roving section in the first roving/second roving transition section is 30-70%, and the mass fraction of the second roving section is 30-70%.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, this application is earlier with first coloured antibiotic polyamide fibre and PVA fibre process of loosening in advance, loose degree has been improved, be favorable to the mixture of two kinds of fibre, then adopt the specific use amount scope to soak the fibre with the crude oil, and the specific time of stewing, make and fully soak the fibre with the crude oil, antistatic and gentle and agreeable composition has in the crude oil, can improve fibrous compliance and toughness, reduce fibrous electrostatic action, thereby improve the spinning quality of section colored yarn. And then, the fiber after the wool mixing is subjected to a series of processes such as opening, carding, two-pass drawing, roving and the like to prepare a one-time roving, so that the first roving has good moisture absorption and air permeability and antibacterial property.
Meanwhile, the second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and tencel fiber are processed by multiple procedures to form second roving, so that the second roving also has good moisture absorption, air permeability and antibacterial property. And finally, mixing the first rough yarn and the second rough yarn to prepare the section color yarn with a specific specification, so that the section color yarn forms a three-section structure, uniformly mixing the PVA fiber in the section color yarn, and after the PVA fiber is dissolved, the density of the fabric becomes thin to form good and uniform air holes, thereby increasing the moisture absorption and air permeability of the fabric. And the section color yarn has a slub design in the spinning process, the fabric contrast at the dissolution position of the water-soluble PVA fiber is highlighted, and the style change of the section color yarn is reflected, so that the attractiveness of the pattern and the color of the fabric is improved.
Preferably, the sirofil yarn is prepared by the following method:
s1, pre-opening PVA fibers, mixing the PVA fibers with wool blending oil, blending the PVA fibers and the wool blending oil for 2 to 3 times, and standing for 8 to 12 hours to obtain blended PVA fibers; wherein the usage amount of the wool oil is 2-5% of that of the PVA fiber;
s2, subjecting the PVA fiber processed in the step S1 to opening, carding, secondary drawing and roving in sequence to obtain third roving;
s3, the third roving and the colored chinlon ATY filaments are subjected to a spinning and twisting process to obtain 18.5tex Sirofil yarns, wherein the twisting coefficient is 380-430.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, this application carries out the process of opening in advance to the PVA fibre, clear away the impurity in the fibre, then use the wool oil of specific use amount scope to carry out gentle and agreeable to the PVA fibre, the compliance and the toughness of PVA fibre have been improved, the electrostatic action of PVA fibre has been reduced, the spinning effect of siro-field yarn has been improved, later make the third roving with the PVA fibre through processes such as opening cotton, comb and parallel cotton, twice drawing and roving, then mix with coloured polyamide fibre ATY long filament, make the siro-field yarn through spun yarn, spooling and twist process, make the surface fabric produce the spun silk screen cloth style, just make the surface fabric that the siro-field yarn formed the heliciform structure after the PVA fibre dissolves, the moisture absorption air permeability of surface fabric has been improved.
Meanwhile, the twisting coefficient is controlled within a specific range, so that the style of the spun silk screen after the PVA fiber is dissolved is more obvious, the air permeability is stronger, the pattern effect is better, and the comfort of the fabric is integrally enhanced.
Preferably, in the step S3, the temperature of the twist setting process is 90-95 ℃, the pressure is 0.1-0.12MPa, and the time is 90-100 min.
By adopting the technical scheme, the temperature, the pressure and the time of the twist setting are controlled within a specific range, the sirofil yarns are subjected to heat setting treatment, the possibility of twisting of the sirofil yarns is reduced, and the possibility of warp shrinkage or weft shrinkage of the fabric in the weaving process of the sirofil yarns is reduced.
Preferably, the colored chinlon ATY filament is of a cross-shaped cross-section structure.
Through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the coloured polyamide fibre ATY filament that this application chooseed for use is cross section structure, can be so that human exhaust sweat rapid transit to the top layer of surface fabric, discharges away the sweat, improves the moisture absorption gas permeability ability of surface fabric, keeps the dry and comfortable nature between human body and the surface fabric to improve the travelling comfort of surface fabric.
In a second aspect, the application provides a production process of a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric, which comprises the following steps:
I. sizing process
The sectional color yarns and the Sirofil yarns are used as warp yarns, a sectional warping process is carried out at the speed of 50-60m/min, then the warping warp yarns are subjected to a sizing process by adopting sizing agents at the speed of 50-60m/min at the temperature of 40-45 ℃, the sizing rate is controlled to be 7-8%, and then a drafting process is carried out;
weaving Process
Weaving the segment color yarns and the Sirofil yarns at the rotating speed of 620-640r/min in an air jet weaving mode according to the warp density of 322-324 pieces/10 cm and the weft density of 307-313 pieces/10 cm to obtain the fabric;
finishing Process
The fabric is shaped at the temperature of 130-140 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 55-60m/min, desized by desizing enzyme aqueous solution with the concentration of 2-3g/L for 40-45min at the temperature of 80-90 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min, then subjected to softening and tentering by mercerizing smoothing agent aqueous solution with the concentration of 10-12g/L and softening agent aqueous solution with the concentration of 9-11g/L at the temperature of 140-150 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min, the pH of the fabric is adjusted within the range of 4-7.5 by citric acid, and finally preshrinked at the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min to obtain the fabric.
By adopting the technical scheme, the sectional color yarns and the sirofil yarns are taken as the warps, and the sectional warping process is carried out under specific conditions, so that the tensions of all the warps are equal, the warps are uniformly distributed on a warp beam or a loom beam, the processes of sizing, drafting and the like at the later stage are facilitated, and the color arrangement on the warps is in accordance with the process regulations. And then, under a specific condition, sizing is carried out on the warp yarns by adopting the sizing agent, and a layer of thin film is covered on the surface of the warp yarns, so that the strength and the wear resistance of the warp yarns are improved.
This application strict control starching process's temperature adopts the mode of low temperature starching in specific within range, because the fibrous dissolving temperature of water-soluble PVA that this application adopted is about 85 ℃, consequently controls starching process's temperature, has reduced the PVA fibre and has just taken place the possibility of dissolving at the starching process, if the PVA fibre just takes place to dissolve at the starching process, then can make the yarn thin, the later stage weaving process difficulty. Simultaneously, because at the starching in-process, the yarn takes place the adhesion easily, therefore the speed of this application control starching is in specific within range, has reduced the later stage to the warp and has separated into the possibility that the plastic film is torn when two-layer upper and lower. And, because the thick liquids dissolve the back to PVA fibre, the PVA fibre that dissolves can remain in the inside of yarn, can bond with other fibre in the yarn together after drying, consequently this application control sizing percentage is in specific scope for the thick liquids cover on the warp can, need not soak the warp completely, reduced the use amount of thick liquids, reduced manufacturing cost.
And (3) carrying out beating-up weaving on the warp yarns subjected to the sizing process in an air jet weaving mode under the condition of specific rotating speed. Because PVA fiber takes place to dissolve at later stage desizing process and makes the yarn count of warp and woof attenuate, the density of surface fabric becomes thin, and the degree of tightness of fabric can reduce, consequently this application control warp direction density and latitudinal direction density are in specific within range for the initial degree of tightness of fabric is higher, has reduced along with PVA fiber's dissolution, and the degree of tightness of fabric descends too big and makes the position of warp and woof take place to remove and the possibility that appears broken hole fault. However, if the initial tightness of the fabric is too high, the resistance of the beating-up process is increased, and the difficulty of the weaving process is increased.
Because the fabric contains a large amount of water-soluble PVA fibers and nylon fibers, the woven fabric is firstly subjected to a shaping process under specific conditions, so that the shape structure of the nylon fibers in the fabric is shaped, and after the water-soluble PVA fibers are dissolved in the later desizing process, the fibers in the fabric can also be in a spiral shape, so that the prepared fabric is more fluffy and has higher comfort.
After shaping, desizing is carried out on the fabric under a specific temperature condition, PVA fibers in the fabric are dissolved by water in desizing enzyme within a specific temperature range, other fibers in the fabric are loosened, and the density of the fabric is thinned, so that the air permeability of the fabric is enhanced. And then, a specific amount of mercerizing smoothing agent and softening agent is used for carrying out a softening and tentering process on the fabric under specific conditions, so that the softness of the fabric is improved, the comfort of the fabric is improved, the pH value of the prepared fabric is controlled in a better range, and the pH value of the fabric is too high or too low due to the weak acidity of the skin of a human body, so that the skin of the human body is stimulated, and the comfort of the fabric is reduced. And then the fabric is preshrunk, so that most of potential shrinkage stress in the fabric is fully eliminated, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric is reduced, so that the prepared fabric meets the standard requirement.
Preferably, in the step I, the slurry comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 25-27% of PVA slurry, 60-62% of modified starch, 7.5-8.5% of polyacrylic acid and the balance of polymethyl acrylate.
By adopting the technical scheme, the modified starch has excellent adhesion to tencel fibers, can be well attached to the surface of the fibers, then improves the elongation at break of the size film through PVA powder, reduces the possibility of occurrence of brittle fracture in the weaving process, and simultaneously, because the mortar coverage is higher, the yarns are easy to adhere to each other, so that polyacrylic acid and polymethyl acrylate with specific proportion are used to be added into the size film, the resistance met by warps when the warps are divided into an upper layer and a lower layer can be reduced, and the possibility of tearing the size film is reduced.
Therefore, PVA powder, modified starch, polyacrylic acid and polymethyl acrylate in a specific proportion range are mixed and matched to be used as slurry, the synergistic effect among the PVA powder, the modified starch, the polyacrylic acid and the polymethyl acrylate can be fully exerted, the strength of the yarn is increased, a layer of film with high breaking elongation is formed on the surface of the yarn, and the wear resistance of the fabric is improved.
Preferably, in the step II, the conditions of the air jet weaving mode are a main jet pressure of 0.4-0.43MPa, an auxiliary jet pressure of 0.45-0.48MPa and a breeze pressure of 0.1-0.15 MPa.
Because the sirofil yarn is comparatively easy to knot at weaving in-process, consequently through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, the application controls main jet pressure and assists the pressure of spouting and under great pressure, has reduced the possibility that the sirofil yarn takes place to knot, and the gentle breeze pressure of this application control simultaneously can reduce the possibility that the woof kinks at weaving in-process, improves the effect that the surface fabric was weavingd at specific within range.
Preferably, in the step II, an early shedding process and a high back beam process are adopted in the weaving process, the shedding angle is 290-.
Because the tightness of the fabric of this application control is higher, consequently weaving the in-process, difficult beating up during the beat-up, through adopting above-mentioned technical scheme, control opening angle adopts early opening process in specific range for during the beat-up, the clamping force ratio of warp to weft is great, is favorable to beating up the weft, has reduced because PVA fibre dissolves and makes the warp take place to shift the possibility that the broken hole fault appears. Meanwhile, a high back beam process is adopted, the tension of the upper layer warp and the tension of the lower layer warp are controlled within a specific range, so that the tension of the lower layer is greater than that of the upper layer, the rebound force of weft yarn is smaller during beating-up, and beating-up of weft yarn is further facilitated.
In summary, the present application includes at least one of the following beneficial technical effects:
1. the fabric prepared by the method contains the water-soluble PVA fibers, and the water-soluble PVA fibers are dissolved in the desizing process, so that other fibers in the fabric are loosened, the density of the fabric becomes thin, and the moisture absorption and breathability performance is strong;
2. according to the fabric, the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber, the second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the tencel fiber are adopted, so that the fabric is good in heat conduction performance and good in antibacterial performance;
3. the method for dissolving the PVA fiber after shaping is adopted, so that the fiber in the fabric can keep spiral, the fabric is fluffy and soft, and the fabric has higher comfort.
Detailed Description
The present application will be described in further detail with reference to examples.
The first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the second colored antibacterial nylon fiber are purchased from Beijing Jieershuang high-tech Co., Ltd, the specification of the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber is 1.65dtex multiplied by 51mm, the specification of the second colored antibacterial nylon fiber is 1.65dtex multiplied by 38mm, and the two fibers have different colors and do not have special requirements;
the tencel fiber of the application is purchased from Aoyun clothing Co., Ltd, Shandong province, and the specification is 1.33dtex multiplied by 38 mm;
the PVA fiber is purchased from Ningbo Shikeke New Material science and technology Co., Ltd, has the polymerization degree of 750, the dry strength of 2.83CN/dtex, the dissolution temperature of 85 ℃, the normal-temperature shrinkage rate of 4 percent and the maximum shrinkage rate of 48 percent;
the colored chinlon ATY filament is purchased from special nylon GmbH of Jiahua Zhejiang, does not have requirements on color, and has the specification of 100D/150F;
the wool oil of the present application was purchased from beijing spinningsatellite auxiliaries ltd;
the desizing enzyme of the application is purchased from Guangdong Kefeng New Material science and technology Co;
the mercerizing smoothing agent is purchased from Dongguan spinning new material science and technology company;
the softener of the application is purchased from Guangzhou Ruiki chemical technology, Inc.;
the PVA slurry of the application is purchased from Shanghai Yingjia industry development Co., Ltd., model 0588;
polyacrylic acid of the present application was purchased from Jiangsu Oufu Biotech, Inc.;
the polymethyl acrylate of the present application was purchased from Shandong Art Honghuaichi chemical Co.
Preparation of segment-color yarn
Preparation example 1
a. First roving preparation
a1. Firstly, pre-loosening first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and PVA fibers in a weight ratio of 50:50 in a loosening machine, then adding wool blending oil which is 1.5% of the total amount of the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, uniformly mixing the wool blending oil with the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers, blending the wool for 2 times, and standing for 8 hours to obtain a blended raw material;
a2. the raw materials after being blended are subjected to two-pass drawing by a cotton opener, carding by a carding machine and a drawing frame, and finally, the raw materials are made into roving by a roving machine to obtain first roving;
b. second roving preparation
Mixing second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and tencel fiber in a weight ratio of 30:70, blowing and carding, drawing by a drawing frame for two times, and finally making into roving by a roving frame to obtain second roving;
c. preparation of segment-color yarn
The first roving and the second roving are made into spun yarns through a spinning machine, and then spooling is carried out on the spooling machine, so that segment color yarns which are composed of a first roving segment, a first roving/second roving transition segment and a second roving segment and have the specification of 18.5tex are obtained; wherein the mass fraction of the first roving section in the first roving/second roving transition section is 30%, and the mass fraction of the second roving section is 70%.
Preparation example 2
a. First roving preparation
a1. Firstly, pre-loosening first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and PVA fibers in a weight ratio of 57.5:42.5 in a loosening machine, then adding wool blending oil which is 3.25% of the total amount of the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, uniformly mixing the wool blending oil with the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers, blending the wool for 3 times, and standing for 10 hours to obtain a blended raw material;
a2. the raw materials after being blended are subjected to two-pass drawing by a cotton opener, carding by a carding machine and a drawing frame, and finally, the raw materials are made into roving by a roving machine to obtain first roving;
b. second roving preparation
Mixing second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and tencel fiber in a weight ratio of 50:50, blowing and carding, drawing by a drawing frame for two times, and finally making into roving by a roving frame to obtain second roving;
c. preparation of segment-color yarn
The first roving and the second roving are made into spun yarns through a spinning machine, and then spooling is carried out on the spooling machine, so that segment color yarns which are composed of a first roving segment, a first roving/second roving transition segment and a second roving segment and have the specification of 18.5tex are obtained; the mass fraction of the first roving section in the first roving/second roving transition section is 50%, and the mass fraction of the second roving section is 50%.
Preparation example 3
a. First roving preparation
a1. Firstly, pre-loosening first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and PVA fibers in a weight ratio of 65:35 in a loosening machine, then adding wool blending oil which is 5% of the total amount of the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, uniformly mixing the wool blending oil with the first colored antibacterial nylon fibers and the PVA fibers, blending the wool for 2 times, and standing for 12 hours to obtain raw materials after the wool blending;
a2. the raw materials after being blended are subjected to two-pass drawing by a cotton opener, carding by a carding machine and a drawing frame, and finally, the raw materials are made into roving by a roving machine to obtain first roving;
b. second roving preparation
Mixing second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and tencel fiber in a weight ratio of 70:30, blowing and carding, drawing by a drawing frame for two times, and finally making into roving by a roving frame to obtain second roving;
c. preparation of segment-color yarn
The first roving and the second roving are made into spun yarns through a spinning machine, and then spooling is carried out on the spooling machine, so that segment color yarns which are composed of a first roving segment, a first roving/second roving transition segment and a second roving segment and have the specification of 18.5tex are obtained; wherein the mass fraction of the first roving section in the first roving/second roving transition section is 70%, and the mass fraction of the second roving section is 30%.
Sirofil yarn preparation
Preparation example 4
S1, pre-opening PVA fibers in an opening machine, adding wool blending oil accounting for 2% of the total amount of the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, mixing the wool blending oil with the PVA fibers for 2 times, and standing for 8 hours to obtain the wool blended PVA fibers;
s2, opening the PVA fiber processed in the step S1 through a cotton opener, carding through a carding machine, drawing through a drawing frame for two times, and finally putting the PVA fiber into a roving machine to be made into roving to obtain third roving;
s3, mixing third rough yarn and colored chinlon ATY filament (cross-shaped cross-section structure) in a weight ratio of 35:65, making the third rough yarn into spun yarn with the specification of 18.5tex through a spinning machine, then winding the spun yarn on a winding machine, and performing fixed twist for 90min under the conditions that the temperature is 90 ℃ and the pressure is 0.1MPa to obtain the sirofil yarn with the fixed twist coefficient of 380.
Preparation example 5
S1, pre-opening PVA fibers in an opening machine, adding wool blending oil which is 3.5 percent of the total amount of the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, mixing the wool blending oil with the PVA fibers for 3 times, and standing for 10 hours to obtain the wool blended PVA fibers;
s2, opening the PVA fiber processed in the step S1 through a cotton opener, carding through a carding machine, drawing through a drawing frame for two times, and finally putting the PVA fiber into a roving machine to be made into roving to obtain third roving;
s3, mixing the third rough yarn and the colored chinlon ATY filament (cross-shaped cross-section structure) in a weight ratio of 42.5:57.5, making the mixture into a spun yarn with the specification of 18.5tex by a spinning machine, then winding the spun yarn on a winding machine, and performing fixed twisting for 95min under the conditions that the temperature is 92.5 ℃ and the pressure is 0.11MPa to obtain the sirofil yarn with the fixed twisting coefficient of 415.
Preparation example 6
S1, pre-opening PVA fibers in an opening machine, adding wool blending oil accounting for 5% of the total amount of the PVA fibers in a wool blending machine, mixing the wool blending oil with the PVA fibers for 2 times, and standing for 12 hours to obtain wool blended PVA fibers;
s2, opening the PVA fiber processed in the step S1 through a cotton opener, carding through a carding machine, drawing through a drawing frame for two times, and finally putting the PVA fiber into a roving machine to be made into roving to obtain third roving;
s3, mixing third rough yarn and colored chinlon ATY filament (cross-shaped cross-section structure) in a weight ratio of 50:50, making the third rough yarn into spun yarn with the specification of 18.5tex through a spinning machine, then winding the spun yarn on a winding machine, and performing fixed twisting for 100min under the conditions that the temperature is 95 ℃ and the pressure is 0.12MPa to obtain the Sirofil yarn with the fixed twisting coefficient of 430.
Example 1
A production process of a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric comprises the following steps:
I. sizing process
Adopting a ZLGA01 sectional sizing and warping combination machine, winding the sectional color yarns prepared in preparation example 1 and the sirofil yarns prepared in preparation example 4 as warp yarns on a warp beam, performing a sectional warping process at the speed of 50m/min, then performing a sizing process on the warped warp yarns at the temperature of 40 ℃ and the speed of 50m/min by using size, controlling the sizing rate to be 7%, and then performing a drafting process;
wherein, the size comprises 25 percent of PVA size, 60 percent of modified starch, 7.5 percent of polyacrylic acid and 7.5 percent of polymethyl acrylate by weight percentage;
weaving Process
Controlling the main jet pressure to be 0.4MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure to be 0.45MPa and the breeze pressure to be 0.1MPa by adopting a GA708 type air jet loom at the rotating speed of 620r/min, weaving the section color yarns and the Sirofil yarns according to the warp density of 322 pieces/10 cm and the weft density of 307 pieces/10 cm, and obtaining the fabric by adopting the processes of early opening and high back beam in the weaving process and the back beam height of +1 cm; wherein the opening angle is 290 degrees, the warp yarns form two layers with the tension of 2000N at the upper layer and the tension of 2900N at the lower layer after opening;
finishing Process
The fabric is subjected to a sizing process under the conditions that the temperature is 130 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 55m/min, then the fabric is desized for 40min by adopting a desizing enzyme aqueous solution of 2g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 80 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 50m/min, then a soft tentering process is carried out by adopting a mercerizing smoothing agent aqueous solution of 10g/L and a softening agent aqueous solution of 9g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 140 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 50m/min, the pH value of the fabric is adjusted to be 4 by using citric acid, and finally the fabric is preshrunk under the vehicle speed of 50m/min to obtain the fabric.
Example 2
A production process of a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric comprises the following steps:
I. sizing process
Winding the sectional color yarn prepared in preparation example 2 and the sirofil yarn prepared in preparation example 5 as warp yarns on a warp beam by adopting a ZLGA01 sectional warping combination machine, performing a sectional warping process at a speed of 55m/min, then performing a sizing process on the warped warp yarns at a temperature of 42.5 ℃ and a speed of 55m/min by adopting size, controlling the sizing rate to be 7.5%, and then performing a drafting process;
wherein, the size comprises 26 percent of PVA size, 61 percent of modified starch, 8 percent of polyacrylic acid and 5 percent of polymethyl acrylate by weight percentage;
weaving Process
At the rotating speed of 630r/min, adopting a GA708 type air jet loom, controlling the main jet pressure to be 0.415MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure to be 0.465MPa and the breeze pressure to be 0.125MPa, weaving the section color yarns and the Sirofil yarns according to the warp density of 323/10 cm and the weft density of 310/10 cm, and adopting an early opening and high back beam process in the weaving process, wherein the back beam height is +1cm, thus obtaining the fabric; wherein the opening angle is 292.5 degrees, the warp yarns form two layers with the tension of 2050N at the upper layer and the tension of 2950N at the lower layer after opening;
finishing Process
The fabric is subjected to a sizing process under the conditions that the temperature is 135 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 57.5m/min, then the fabric is subjected to desizing for 42.5min by adopting a desizing enzyme aqueous solution of 2.5g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 85 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 52.5m/min, then the fabric is subjected to a soft tentering process by adopting a mercerizing smoothing agent aqueous solution of 11g/L and a softening agent aqueous solution of 10g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 145 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 52.5m/min, the pH value of the fabric is adjusted to 5.75 by using citric acid, and finally the fabric is subjected to preshrinking under the vehicle speed of 52.5m/min to obtain the fabric.
Example 3
A production process of a novel moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric comprises the following steps:
I. sizing process
Adopting a ZLGA01 sectional sizing and warping combination machine, winding the sectional color yarns prepared in preparation example 3 and the sirofil yarns prepared in preparation example 6 as warp yarns on a warp beam, performing a sectional warping process at the speed of 60m/min, then performing a sizing process on the warped warp yarns at the temperature of 45 ℃ and the speed of 60m/min by using size, controlling the sizing rate to be 8%, and then performing a drafting process;
wherein, the size comprises 27 percent of PVA size, 62 percent of modified starch, 8.5 percent of polyacrylic acid and 2.5 percent of polymethyl acrylate by weight percentage;
weaving Process
At the rotating speed of 640r/min, adopting a GA708 type air jet loom, controlling the main jet pressure to be 0.43MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure to be 0.48MPa and the breeze pressure to be 0.15MPa, weaving the section color yarns and the Sirofil yarns according to the warp density of 324 pieces/10 cm and the weft density of 313 pieces/10 cm, and adopting an early opening and high back beam process in the weaving process, wherein the back beam height is +1cm, so as to obtain the fabric; wherein the opening angle is 295 degrees, and after the opening, the warp yarns form two layers with the upper layer tension of 2100N and the lower layer tension of 3000N;
finishing Process
The fabric is subjected to a sizing process under the conditions that the temperature is 140 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 60m/min, then the fabric is subjected to desizing for 45min by adopting a desizing enzyme aqueous solution of 3g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 90 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 55m/min, then a soft tentering process is carried out by adopting a mercerizing smoothing agent aqueous solution of 12g/L and a softening agent aqueous solution of 11g/L under the conditions that the temperature is 150 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 55m/min, the pH value of the fabric is adjusted to 7.5 by using citric acid, and finally the fabric is subjected to preshrinking under the vehicle speed of 55m/min to obtain the fabric.
Comparative example 1
The difference from example 2 is that: in step II, the warp density is 290 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 300 pieces/10 cm.
Comparative example 2
The difference from example 2 is that: in the step II, the warp density is 360 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 320 pieces/10 cm.
Comparative example 3
The difference from example 2 is that: and step III, desizing the fabric and then shaping.
Performance detection
Detection 1: the air permeability (mm/s) of the fabrics of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-3 was tested with reference to GB/T5453-1997 determination of air permeability of textile fabrics;
and (3) detection 2: reference GB/T20944.2-2007 evaluation of antibacterial properties of textiles-part 2: the absorption method detects the bacteriostasis rate (%) of the fabrics of the examples 1-3 and the comparative examples 1-3;
and (3) detection: reference GB/T3923.1-2013 part 1 of tensile Properties of textile fabrics: determination of breaking strength and breaking elongation (bar method) the fabrics of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were tested for breaking elongation (%);
the results of the above tests 1 to 3 are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 table of performance test results
As can be seen from Table 1, the air permeability of the fabric prepared by the examples 1-3 is 49.5-55.2%, the antibacterial rate is 97.3-99.1%, which is far higher than the standard requirement, and the elongation at break is 150.6-152.6, which indicates that the fabric prepared by the examples 1-3 has higher moisture absorption and air permeability, antibacterial performance and strength.
Although the air permeability of the comparative example 1 is higher than that of the example 2, the elongation at break of the comparative example 1 is obviously lower than that of the example 2, which shows that when the warp density and the weft density are lower, the density of the fabric becomes more sparse after the PVA fibers are dissolved, so that the moisture absorption and air permeability performance is improved, but the quality of the fabric is poor because the distance between the fibers is too large and too loose, and the strength of the fabric is reduced to a large extent.
The air permeability, the bacteriostasis rate and the elongation at break of the comparative example 2 are lower than those of the example 2, which shows that when the warp density and the weft density are too high, the PVA fibers can not be dissolved in the desizing process, so that the fabric cannot be thinned, and the moisture absorption and air permeability of the fabric are reduced.
The air permeability, the antibacterial rate and the elongation at break of the comparative example 3 are lower than those of the example 2, which shows that the fabric is desized and then shaped, so that other fibers in the fabric are not shaped and the PVA fiber is dissolved, and other fibers in the fabric can not keep a fluffy structure, so that the moisture absorption, the air permeability and the strength of the fabric are reduced, and the comfort of the fabric is further reduced.
The embodiments of the present invention are preferred embodiments of the present application, and the scope of protection of the present application is not limited by the embodiments, so: all equivalent changes made according to the structure, shape and principle of the present application shall be covered by the protection scope of the present application.
Claims (10)
1. The production process of the moisture-absorbing and breathable textile fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
I. sizing process
The sectional color yarns and the Sirofil yarns are used as warp yarns, a sectional warping process is carried out at the speed of 50-60m/min, then the warping warp yarns are subjected to a sizing process by adopting sizing agents at the speed of 50-60m/min at the temperature of 40-45 ℃, the sizing rate is controlled to be 7-8%, and then a drafting process is carried out;
weaving Process
Weaving the segment color yarns and the Sirofil yarns at the rotating speed of 620-640r/min in an air jet weaving mode according to the warp density of 322-324 pieces/10 cm and the weft density of 307-313 pieces/10 cm to obtain the fabric;
finishing Process
The fabric is shaped at the temperature of 130-140 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 55-60m/min, desized by desizing enzyme aqueous solution with the concentration of 2-3g/L for 40-45min at the temperature of 80-90 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min, then subjected to soft tentering by mercerizing smoothing agent aqueous solution with the concentration of 10-12g/L and softener aqueous solution with the concentration of 9-11g/L at the temperature of 140-150 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min, the pH of the fabric is adjusted within the range of 4-7.5 by citric acid, and finally preshrinked at the vehicle speed of 50-55m/min to obtain the fabric;
the segment of colored yarn comprises a first roving and a second roving;
the first roving comprises 50-65% of first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and 35-50% of PVA fiber in mass fraction;
the second roving comprises 30-70% by mass of second colored antibacterial nylon fiber and 30-70% by mass of tencel fiber;
the sirofil yarn comprises 35-50% of third roving and 50-65% of colored chinlon ATY filament; and the third roving adopts PVA fiber.
2. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the segment color yarn is prepared by the following method:
a. first roving preparation
a1. Firstly, pre-loosening first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and PVA fiber, then adding wool blending oil, uniformly mixing the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the PVA fiber, blending the wool for 2-3 times, and standing for 8-12 hours to obtain blended raw materials; wherein the usage amount of the wool oil is 1.5-5% of the total mass of the first colored antibacterial nylon fiber and the PVA fiber;
a2. the raw materials after wool blending are subjected to opening, cotton carding, two-pass drawing and roving processes in sequence to obtain first roving;
b. second roving preparation
Mixing the second colored antibacterial polyamide fiber and tencel fiber, and then sequentially carrying out blowing-carding, secondary drawing and roving processes to obtain second roving;
c. preparation of segment-color yarn
And (3) after the first roving and the second roving are subjected to a spinning process, obtaining the section color yarn with the specification of 18.5tex, which is composed of a first roving section, a first roving/second roving transition section and a second roving section.
3. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 2, wherein: in the step c, the mass fraction of the first roving section in the first roving/second roving transition section is 30-70%, and the mass fraction of the second roving section is 30-70%.
4. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the Sirofil yarn is prepared by the following method:
s1, pre-opening PVA fibers, mixing the PVA fibers with wool blending oil, blending the PVA fibers and the wool blending oil for 2 to 3 times, and standing for 8 to 12 hours to obtain blended PVA fibers; wherein the usage amount of the wool oil is 2-5% of that of the PVA fiber;
s2, subjecting the PVA fiber processed in the step S1 to opening, carding, secondary drawing and roving in sequence to obtain third roving;
s3, the third roving and the colored chinlon ATY filaments are subjected to a spinning and twisting process to obtain 18.5tex Sirofil yarns, wherein the twisting coefficient is 380-430.
5. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 4, wherein: in the step S3, the temperature of the twist fixing process is 90-95 ℃, the pressure is 0.1-0.12MPa, and the time is 90-100 min.
6. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the colored chinlon ATY filament is of a cross-shaped cross-section structure.
7. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: in the step I, the slurry comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 25-27% of PVA slurry, 60-62% of modified starch, 7.5-8.5% of polyacrylic acid and the balance of polymethyl acrylate.
8. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: in the step II, the conditions of the air-jet weaving mode are main jet pressure of 0.4-0.43MPa, auxiliary jet pressure of 0.45-0.48MPa and breeze pressure of 0.1-0.15 MPa.
9. The process for producing a moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein: in the step II, an early opening process and a high back beam process are adopted in the weaving process, the opening angle is 290-.
10. A moisture-absorbing breathable textile fabric obtainable by the process according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
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