CA1168158A - Cosmetic composition with an aqueous dispersion of lipidic globules - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition with an aqueous dispersion of lipidic globulesInfo
- Publication number
- CA1168158A CA1168158A CA000380902A CA380902A CA1168158A CA 1168158 A CA1168158 A CA 1168158A CA 000380902 A CA000380902 A CA 000380902A CA 380902 A CA380902 A CA 380902A CA 1168158 A CA1168158 A CA 1168158A
- Authority
- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- composition according
- oil
- charac
- spherules
- fact
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 62
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 title abstract description 40
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims description 45
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 29
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 229930182558 Sterol Natural products 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000003702 sterols Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- RXKJFZQQPQGTFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N dihydroxyacetone Chemical compound OCC(=O)CO RXKJFZQQPQGTFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000003432 sterols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 5-oxo-L-proline Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H]1CCC(=O)N1 ODHCTXKNWHHXJC-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000009854 Cucurbita moschata Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010469 Glycine max Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 244000020551 Helianthus annuus Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000003222 Helianthus annuus Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940124091 Keratolytic Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001166 anti-perspirative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003213 antiperspirant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000012752 auxiliary agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000002951 depilatory effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002009 diols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000035876 healing Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001530 keratinolytic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940079889 pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001256 tonic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 240000004244 Cucurbita moschata Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000009852 Cucurbita pepo Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MNQZXJOMYWMBOU-VKHMYHEASA-N D-glyceraldehyde Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)C=O MNQZXJOMYWMBOU-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SQUHHTBVTRBESD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hexa-Ac-myo-Inositol Natural products CC(=O)OC1C(OC(C)=O)C(OC(C)=O)C(OC(C)=O)C(OC(C)=O)C1OC(C)=O SQUHHTBVTRBESD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 244000044822 Simmondsia californica Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000004433 Simmondsia californica Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 240000008042 Zea mays Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000005824 Zea mays ssp. parviglumis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000002017 Zea mays subsp mays Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001299 aldehydes Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001414 amino alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000004381 amniotic fluid Anatomy 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003212 astringent agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000005822 corn Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940120503 dihydroxyacetone Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- CDAISMWEOUEBRE-GPIVLXJGSA-N inositol Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O CDAISMWEOUEBRE-GPIVLXJGSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960000367 inositol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001206 natural gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- CDAISMWEOUEBRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N scyllo-inosotol Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C1O CDAISMWEOUEBRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000020354 squash Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 241001474374 Blennius Species 0.000 claims 1
- 241000219094 Vitaceae Species 0.000 claims 1
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 235000021021 grapes Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- KZJWDPNRJALLNS-VJSFXXLFSA-N sitosterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CC[C@@H](CC)C(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 KZJWDPNRJALLNS-VJSFXXLFSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 230000035943 smell Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 abstract description 31
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 10
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 9
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 229950005143 sitosterol Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 8
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 229960004418 trolamine Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229940093541 dicetylphosphate Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 235000019486 Sunflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001615 Tragacanth Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000013019 agitation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 241000416162 Astragalus gummifer Species 0.000 description 2
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000007480 spreading Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 235000015961 tonic Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000196 tragacanth Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010487 tragacanth Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940116362 tragacanth Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000000832 Ayote Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- GAWIXWVDTYZWAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N C[CH]O Chemical group C[CH]O GAWIXWVDTYZWAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000195493 Cryptophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000001980 Cucurbita pepo Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000009804 Cucurbita pepo subsp pepo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formaldehyde Chemical compound O=C WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010010803 Gelatin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229930186217 Glycolipid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000283986 Lepus Species 0.000 description 1
- 244000025272 Persea americana Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000008673 Persea americana Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010040829 Skin discolouration Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 235000021307 Triticum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000098338 Triticum aestivum Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000305 astragalus gummifer gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229930183167 cerebroside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000001784 cerebrosides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002285 corn oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005687 corn oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004087 cornea Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000008278 cosmetic cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008341 cosmetic lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- RNPXCFINMKSQPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dicetyl hydrogen phosphate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOP(O)(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC RNPXCFINMKSQPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XRWMGCFJVKDVMD-UHFFFAOYSA-M didodecyl(dimethyl)azanium;bromide Chemical compound [Br-].CCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCC XRWMGCFJVKDVMD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N erythrulose Chemical compound OCC(O)C(=O)CO UQPHVQVXLPRNCX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 235000019256 formaldehyde Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003517 fume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008273 gelatin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000159 gelatin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019322 gelatine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011852 gelatine desserts Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960005150 glycerol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940087559 grape seed Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008169 grapeseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000338 in vitro Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003410 keratolytic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940099367 lanolin alcohols Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMGQYMWWDOXHJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N limonene Chemical compound CC(=C)C1CCC(C)=CC1 XMGQYMWWDOXHJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940059574 pentaerithrityl Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940068065 phytosterols Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035939 shock Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940080236 sodium cetyl sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GGHPAKFFUZUEKL-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;hexadecyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O GGHPAKFFUZUEKL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229960002920 sorbitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019149 tocopherols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000716 tonics Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 1
- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical class OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
- C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
- C11D3/0005—Other compounding ingredients characterised by their effect
- C11D3/0084—Antioxidants; Free-radical scavengers
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
- C09K23/42—Ethers, e.g. polyglycol ethers of alcohols or phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K9/127—Liposomes
- A61K9/1271—Non-conventional liposomes, e.g. PEGylated liposomes, liposomes coated with polymers
- A61K9/1272—Non-conventional liposomes, e.g. PEGylated liposomes, liposomes coated with polymers with substantial amounts of non-phosphatidyl, i.e. non-acylglycerophosphate, surfactants as bilayer-forming substances, e.g. cationic lipids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K9/127—Liposomes
- A61K9/1277—Processes for preparing; Proliposomes
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01D—SEPARATION
- B01D19/00—Degasification of liquids
- B01D19/02—Foam dispersion or prevention
- B01D19/04—Foam dispersion or prevention by addition of chemical substances
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
- C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
- C11D17/00—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties
- C11D17/0008—Detergent materials or soaps characterised by their shape or physical properties aqueous liquid non soap compositions
- C11D17/0026—Structured liquid compositions, e.g. liquid crystalline phases or network containing non-Newtonian phase
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M7/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made of other substances with subsequent freeing of the treated goods from the treating medium, e.g. swelling, e.g. polyolefins
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2201/00—Inorganic compounds or elements as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2201/02—Water
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2203/00—Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2203/02—Well-defined aliphatic compounds
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2203/00—Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2203/02—Well-defined aliphatic compounds
- C10M2203/022—Well-defined aliphatic compounds saturated
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2203/00—Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2203/02—Well-defined aliphatic compounds
- C10M2203/024—Well-defined aliphatic compounds unsaturated
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2203/00—Organic non-macromolecular hydrocarbon compounds and hydrocarbon fractions as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2203/04—Well-defined cycloaliphatic compounds
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2215/00—Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing nitrogen as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2215/02—Amines, e.g. polyalkylene polyamines; Quaternary amines
- C10M2215/04—Amines, e.g. polyalkylene polyamines; Quaternary amines having amino groups bound to acyclic or cycloaliphatic carbon atoms
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2215/00—Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing nitrogen as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2215/26—Amines
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C10—PETROLEUM, GAS OR COKE INDUSTRIES; TECHNICAL GASES CONTAINING CARBON MONOXIDE; FUELS; LUBRICANTS; PEAT
- C10M—LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS; USE OF CHEMICAL SUBSTANCES EITHER ALONE OR AS LUBRICATING INGREDIENTS IN A LUBRICATING COMPOSITION
- C10M2223/00—Organic non-macromolecular compounds containing phosphorus as ingredients in lubricant compositions
- C10M2223/10—Phosphatides, e.g. lecithin, cephalin
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- C10N—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASS C10M RELATING TO LUBRICATING COMPOSITIONS
- C10N2040/00—Specified use or application for which the lubricating composition is intended
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Abstract
L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique consistant en une dispersion aqueuse de sphérules composées de couches moléculaires organisées entre lesquelles est encapsulée une phase aqueuse interne, ces couches étant constituées d'au moins un lipide amphiphile non ionique. Cette composition est caractérisé par le fait qu'au moins une huile est dispersée dans la phase aqueuse externe qui entoure les sphérules. Cette huile est choisie dans le groupe comprenant les esters d'acides gras et de polyols, notamment les triglycérides liquides, et les esters d'acides gras et d'alcools ramifiés de formule R-COOR' dans laquelle R représente le reste d'un acide gras supérieur comportant de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et R' représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée ramifiée contenant de 3 a 20 atomes de carbone. L'invention permet notamment de conjuguer à la fois les avantages des dispersions de sphérules et ceux résultant de la présence d'huile cosmétiques. De plus, les sphérules d'amphiphiles non-ioniques de l'invention permettent la stabilisation d'une dispersion d'au moins une huile végétale dans une phase aqueuse externe en venant se disperser autour des gouttelettes d'huile en gardant leur intégrité.The invention relates to a cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous dispersion of spherules composed of organized molecular layers between which an internal aqueous phase is encapsulated, these layers consisting of at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid. This composition is characterized in that at least one oil is dispersed in the external aqueous phase which surrounds the spherules. This oil is chosen from the group comprising esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular liquid triglycerides, and esters of fatty acids and branched alcohols of formula R-COOR 'in which R represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid having from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R 'represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. The invention makes it possible in particular to combine both the advantages of spherule dispersions and those resulting from the presence of cosmetic oil. In addition, the spherules of nonionic amphiphiles of the invention allow the stabilization of a dispersion of at least one vegetable oil in an external aqueous phase by dispersing around the oil droplets while retaining their integrity.
Description
5~
La presente invention concerne une composition cosmetique consistant en une dispersion de sphérules lipi-diques. Des dispersions aqueuses de ce genre ont dejà eté
decrites dans le brevet français no 2,315,991 depose le 30 juin 1975.
Les spherules lipidiques de ces dispersions sont caracterisees par leur structure en feuillets constitues de deux ou plusieurs couches lipidiques separees les unes des autres par des couches de phase aqueuse. Elles peuvent ainsi servir a encapsuler dans les compartiments aqueux compris entre les couches lipidiques, des substances actives hydrosolubles par exemple pharmaceutiques ou cosmetiques et à les proteger des conditions exterieures.
Le brevet français precite décrit également un procede de preparation d'une dispersion aqueuse de sphé-rules lipidiques consistant, en premier lieu, à mettre en contact les lipides destinés à constituer les feuilets concentriques des sphérules avec la solution aqueuse à encap-suler, le rapport lipophile/hydrophile des lipides choisis étant tel que ces derniers gonflent dans l'eau ou dans la phase aqueuse à encapsuler pour former une phase lamellai-re plane; en second lieu, à ajouter a la phase lamellaire une solution aqueuse destinée a constituer la phase externe continue de la dispersion, et en troisième lieu, ~ soumettre le tout à une agitation énergique pour obtenir une disper-sion de sphérules entre les feuillets concentriques des-quelles est emprisonnée la phase aqueuse à encapsuler.
Pour former les feuillets concentriques des sphérules, on peut, selon l'enseignement du brevet français considéré, utiliser des lipides amphiphiles ou bien ioniques ou bien non ioniques. Parmi les lipides amphiphiles non ioniques, on prefere:
- les éthers de polyglycérol linéaires ou rami-fies de formules respectives:
R - (OCH2 -CHOH-CH2) n ~
et R (O-CH2 -CH)n OH
n étant un entier compris entre 1 et 6, R étant une chalne aliphatique linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée de 12 à 30 atomes de carbone, les radicaux hydrocarbonés des alcools de lanoline ou les restes hydroxy-2 alkyle des ~-diols a longue chaIne;
- les alcools gras polyoxyéthylenes;
- les esters de polyols oxyéthylénés ou non et, en particulier, les esters de sorbitol polyoxyéthylénés;
- les glycolipides d'origine naturelle ou synthe-tique, par exemple les cérébrosides.
Parmi les substances actives cosmetiques qui peu-vent être encapsulées dans les sphérules lipidiques, le brevet francais précité donne ~ titre d'exemple, des subs-tances destinées aux soins du revetement cutané telles que des humectants, des agents de brunissage artificiels, des agents de coloration de la peau, des filtres solaires hydrosolubles, des anti-perspirants, des déodorants, des astringents, des produits rafraichissants, toniques, cicatrisants, kératolytiques, dépilatoires, des eaux par-fumées et des extraits de tissus animaux ou végétaux.
On a observe que les compositions cosmétiques visées ci-dessus, sous forme de dispersion aqueuse de sphérules lipidiques, présentent l'avantage par rapport aux preparations classiques sous forme d'emulsion d'huile et d'eau de presenter un effet moins agressif et, par suite, d'entrainer une irritation moindre lorsqu'elles sont appli-quees sur le revêtement cutane.
La presente invention vise ~ decrire une compo-sition cosmetique à base d'une dispersion aqueuse de sphe-rules lipidiques permettant de conjuguer ~ la fois les avan-tages des dispersions de spherules et ceux resultant de la presence d'huiles cosmetiques.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une composition cosmetique consistant en une dispersion aqueuse de spherules composees de couches moleculaires organisees entre lesquelles est encapsulee une phase aqueuse interne, ces couches etant constituees d'au moins un lipide amphi-phile non ionique, caracterise par le fait qu'au moins une huile est dispersee dans la phase aqueuse externe qui en-toure les spherules, ladite huile etant prise dans le groupe forme par les esters d'acides gras et de polyols, notamment les triglycerides liquides, et par les esters d'acides gras et d'alcools ramifies de formule R-COOR', formule dans laquelle R represente le reste d'un acide gras superieur comportant de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et R' représente une chaine hydrocarbonëe ramifiee contenant de 3 à 20 atomes de carbone.
On observe de façon inattendue que les spherules d'amphiphiles non ioniques permettent de stabiliser la dis-persion d'huile dans l'eau sans requérir l'addition d'un agent emulsifiant conventionnel, ni entra;ner la destruction des spherules. Pourtant, on sait que la stabilite d'une emul-sion depend pour l'essentiel de la presence d'un emulsifiant, dont les molecules vont s'adsorber à la surface des goutte-lettes d'huile en formant une sorte de membrane continue qui ernpêche le contact direct de deux gouttelettes voisi-nes, au cours d'un choc par exemple. Ainsi, dans le cas present, l'homme du metier aurait ete conduit à penser que les lipides amphiphiles non-ioniques des spherules pouvaient s~
certes jouer le role d'un e~ulsifiant~en venant s'adsorber a la surface des gouttelettes d'huile, mais que cette stabi-lisation avait aussi pour effet d'entralner la destruction des feuillets concentriques des sphérules. Or, il n'en est rien et l'on constate, de fason surprenante, que les sphéru-les d'amphiphiles non-ioniques de l'invention sont capables de stabiliser une dispersion d'au moins une huile végetale ci-dessus définie dans une phase aqueuse externe en venant se disperser autour des gouttelettes d'huile en gardant leur intégrité.
Dans le brevet des Etats Unis d'Amérique no 3,957,971, on décrit des dispersions de sphérules d'amphi-philes ioniques ou liposomes entrant dans la composition de crèmes ou de lotions cosmétiques, c'est-à-dire d'émulsions eau-dans-huile ou huiles-dans-eau. Dans la présente inven-tion, les sphérules sont composées non pas d'amphiphiles ioniques, mais d'amphiphiles non-ioniques. En outre, on a pu constater que les liposomes ne permettent pas de stabili-ser une disperion dans l'eau, d'une huile ve~étale prise dans la classe visée ci-dessus alors que de façon tout-a-fait inattendue, les sphérules d'amphiphiles non-ioniques de l'invention permettent de stabiliser une telle dispersion.
La préparation de la composition cosmétique selon l'invention se fait en deux temps: dans un premier temps, on prépare une dispersion aqueuse de sphérules à partir des lipides amphiphiles non ioniques en mettant en oeuvre ou bien le procédé revendiqué dans le brevet français no 2,315,991, ou bien les modes opératoires décrits dans le brevet fran-cais no 2,221,122. Dans un second temps, une fois que la dispersion aqueuse de sphérules est réalisée, on y ajoute notamment de l'huile. Puis, par agitation, on disperse l'huile dans la phase aqueuse externe.
i81~
De pre~erence, la composition cosmetique selon l'invention contient de 2 ~ 10 % de lipide(s) amphiphile(s) non ionique(s) constituant les parois des sperules, et de 5 ~
The present invention relates to a composition cosmetic consisting of a dispersion of lipid spherules diques. Aqueous dispersions of this kind have already been described in French Patent No. 2,315,991 filed June 30, 1975.
The lipid spherules of these dispersions are characterized by their structure in formed sheets two or more separate lipid layers others by layers of aqueous phase. They can thus serve to encapsulate in the aqueous compartments between the lipid layers, active substances water-soluble, for example pharmaceutical or cosmetic and to protect them from external conditions.
The aforementioned French patent also describes a process for the preparation of an aqueous dispersion of spheres lipid rules consisting, first of all, in contact the lipids intended to constitute the sheets concentric of the spherules with the encapsulated aqueous solution suler, the lipophilic / hydrophilic ratio of the chosen lipids being such that the latter swell in water or in the aqueous phase to be encapsulated to form a lamellar phase re plane; second, to add to the lamellar phase an aqueous solution intended to constitute the external phase continues to disperse, and third, ~ submit all with vigorous agitation to obtain a disper-sion of spherules between the concentric sheets of-which is trapped the aqueous phase to be encapsulated.
To form the concentric sheets of spherules, we can, according to the teaching of the French patent considered, use amphiphilic or ionic lipids or non-ionic. Among non-amphiphilic lipids ionic, we prefer:
- linear or branched polyglycerol ethers fies of respective formulas:
R - (OCH2 -CHOH-CH2) n ~
and R (O-CH2 -CH) n OH
n being an integer between 1 and 6, R being a chalne aliphatic linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated with 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols or 2-hydroxy hydroxy residues of ~ -long chain diols;
- polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols;
- esters of polyols, oxyethylenated or not and, in particular, polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters;
- glycolipids of natural or synthetic origin-tick, for example cerebrosides.
Among the active cosmetic substances which can-may be encapsulated in the lipid spherules, the French patent cited above gives ~ as an example, subs-tances intended for skin coating care such as humectants, artificial browning agents, skin coloring agents, sun filters water-soluble, antiperspirants, deodorants, astringents, refreshing, tonic products, healing, keratolytic, depilatory, par-water fumes and extracts from animal or plant tissues.
It has been observed that the cosmetic compositions referred to above, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of lipid spherules, have the advantage over to conventional preparations in the form of an oil emulsion and water to present a less aggressive effect and, consequently, cause less irritation when applied quees on the skin covering.
The present invention aims ~ to describe a composition cosmetic composition based on an aqueous dispersion of sphe-lipid rules allowing to combine ~ both the advantages stages of spherule dispersions and those resulting from the presence of cosmetic oils.
The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition consisting of an aqueous dispersion of spherules composed of organized molecular layers between which an internal aqueous phase is encapsulated, these layers being made up of at least one amphidic lipid non ionic phile, characterized in that at least one oil is dispersed in the external aqueous phase which turn the spherules, said oil being taken in the group formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, especially liquid triglycerides, and by esters of fatty acids and branched alcohols of formula R-COOR ', formula in which R represents the remainder of a fatty acid higher with 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R ' represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
It is unexpectedly observed that the spherules non-ionic amphiphiles stabilize the dis-persion of oil in water without requiring the addition of a conventional emulsifier, or cause destruction spherules. However, we know that the stability of an emul-sion depends essentially on the presence of an emulsifier, whose molecules will adsorb on the surface of the droplets oil scraps forming a sort of continuous membrane which prevents direct contact between two neighboring droplets nes, during a shock for example. So in the case present, the man of the trade would have been led to think that non-ionic amphiphilic lipids of spherules could s ~
certainly play the role of an e ~ ulsifier ~ by absorbing on the surface of the oil droplets, but that this stabili-also had the effect of centralizing the destruction concentric sheets of spherules. However, it is not nothing and we notice, surprisingly, that the spheres-the nonionic amphiphiles of the invention are capable stabilize a dispersion of at least one vegetable oil above defined in an external aqueous phase coming from disperse around the oil droplets keeping their integrity.
In U.S. Patent No.
3,957,971, dispersions of amphibian spherules are described ionic philes or liposomes used in the composition of cosmetic creams or lotions, i.e. emulsions water-in-oil or oils-in-water. In the present invention tion, the spherules are not composed of amphiphiles ionic, but non-ionic amphiphiles. In addition, we have noticed that liposomes do not allow stabilization ser a disperion in water, an oil ve ~ étale taken in the class referred to above while in an all-a-way unexpectedly, the spherules of non-ionic amphiphiles of the invention make it possible to stabilize such a dispersion.
The preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is done in two stages: first, an aqueous dispersion of spherules is prepared from the nonionic amphiphilic lipids by implementing or indeed the process claimed in French patent no. 2,315,991, or the procedures described in the French patent cais no 2,221,122. Then, once the aqueous dispersion of spherules is carried out, added to it including oil. Then, by stirring, the oil is dispersed in the external aqueous phase.
i81 ~
Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains 2 ~ 10% amphiphilic lipid (s) nonionic (s) constituting the walls of the sperules, and
2 à 40 ~ d'huile(s) dispersee(s), ces pourcentages etant exprimes en poids par rapport au poids total de la composi-tion. Avantageusement, la proportion ponderale relative de lipide(s) amphiphile(s) non ionique(s) par rapport à l'huile ~ou aux huiles) dispersee (.5) est comprise entre 0,2/1 et 1/1 .
Les huiles qui peuvent être incorporees dans la composition selon l'invention sont prises dans le groupe forme par ]es esters d'acides gras et de polyols notamment des triglycerides liquides et les esters d'acides gras et d'alcools ramifies de formule: R - COO-R', formule dans laquelle R représente le reste d'un acide gras supérieur comportant de 8 à 20 atomes de carbone et R' représente une chaine hydrocarbonée ramifiée contenant de 3 à 20 atomes de carbone. Parmi les esters d'acides gras et de polyols, on peut mentionner des huiles de tournesol, de mais, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de jojoba et le tri-capro-caprylate de glycérol. Parmi les esters d'acides gras supé-rieurs et d'alcools ramifiés, on peut mentionner l'huile de Purcellin.
Les subst~ances actives cosmétiques de la composi-tion selon l'invention peuvent être encapsulées à l'intérieur ou à l'exterieur de sphérules. C'est ainsi, que dans un mode prefere de realisation, la phase huileuse de la composition contient une ou plusieurs substances cosmetiques liposolu-bles. Ces dernières sont, lors de la preparation de la compo-sition selon l'invention, prealablement dissoutes dansl'huile qui est destinee à être ajoutee à la dispersion de spherules lipidiques. Parmi ces substances cosmetiques actives liposolubles, Oll peut notamment citer des filtres anti-solaires tels que le paradimethylamino benzoate de 2-ethyl hexyle ou des substances destinëes à ameliorer l'etat des peaux sèches ou seniles, en particulier des insaponifia-bles tels que des insaponifiables de soja, d'avocat, des tocopherols, des vitamines E, F, des anti-oxydants.
La dispersion d'huile dans l'eau qui constitue le milieu externe de la dispersion de spherules peut contenir au moins un additif notamment un gelifiant ou un parfum.
L'additif est ajoute à la dispersion en même temps que l'hui-le. Le gelifiant peut être introduit à une concentration variant entre 0,1 et 2 ~, ces pourcentages étant exprimes en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Parmi les gelifiants utilisables, on peut citer les derives de cellulose tels que l'hydroxyethyl cellulose; des polymères synthetiques; des derives d'algues tels que le satiagum ou encore des gommes naturelles telles que l'adragante. on prefère utiliser, à titre de gelifiants, l'hydroxyethyl cellulose, un melange d'acides carboxyvinyliques dlsponible dans le commerce sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940" marque de commercej du satiagum ou encore de l'adragante.
Les lipides amphiphiles non ioniques qui sont destines à constituer les feuillets concentriques des spherules dans la composition cosmetique selon l'invention sont :
- des ethers ou esters de polyglycerol lineaires ou ramifies, de formules respectives:
R (OCH2CHOH-CH2)n OH
et R- --(OCH2 -CH~ OH
H2~H
formules dans lesquelles n est un nom~re compris entre 2 et :~L1ti81~l~
6 et R represente une chaIne aliphatique saturée, lineaire ou ramifiee, comportant de 16 a 20 atomes de carbone ou le radical hydrocarbone d'un alcool de lanoline;
- des sterols polyoxyethylenes.
Au moment de la formation de la phase lamellaire plane obtenue en mettant en contact les lipides amphiphiles non ioniques avec la phase aqueuse a encapsuler, on peut associer divers agents auxiliaires auxdits lipides, en vue de modifier par exemple, la permeabilite ou la charge super-ficielle des spherules. On peut citer à cet egard l'additioneventuelle des alcools et diols a longue chalne, des sterols, notamment le cholesterol et le ~-sitosterol, des amines a longue chaine et de leurs derives ammonium quaternaire notamment le bromure de didodécyl-diméthyl-ammonium, des hydroxyalkyl amines, des amines grasses polyoxyéthylénées, des esters d'amino-alcools à longue chalne et leurs sels et dérivés ammonium quaternaire, des esters phosphoriques d'alcools gras, notamment le dicétyl phosphate, des alkylsul-fates, par exemple le cetyl-sulfate de sodium, de certains polymères tels que les polypeptides et les proteines.
Outre les agents auxiliaires ci-dessus enonces, on peut ajouter un agent conservateur tel que du parahydro-xybenzoate de methyle par exemple.
La phase aqueuse, qu'elle soit interne ou externe, peut renfermer une substance cosmetique hydrosoluble habituel-lement utilisee pour les soins du visage, des mains ou du corps. Parmi ces substances, on peut citer des humectants tels que la glycerine, le sorbitol, le pentaerythritol, l'inositol, l'acide pyrrolidone-carboxylique et ses sels;
des agents de brunissage artificiels tels que la dihydroxyace-tone, l'erythrulose, le glycéraldéhyde, les r-dialdehydes tels que l'aldehyde tartrique; des agents de coloration de ~lL16815~3 la peau; des filtres solaires, des antiperspirants, des déodorants, des astrin~ents, des produits rafraichissants, toniques, cicatrisants, kératolytiques, dépilatoires, ~es eaux parfumées, des extraits de tissus animaux ou vegetaux, tels que des proteines, liquide amniotique, polysaccharides et des agents anti-seborrheiques.
Pour mieux faire comprendre l'objet de l'invention, on va en decrire maintenant a titre d'exemples purement illustratifs et non limitatifs, plusieurs modes de realisa-tion.
La preparation des formulations cosmetiques donnees dans les exemples ci-après s'effectue en deux phases. Dans une première phase, on fabrique une dispersion aqueuse selon le procede decrit dans le brevet français no 2,315,991. La dispersion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques est preparee a partir:
- d'un lipide amphiphile non-ionique, - de sterols comme le cholesterol ou le ~-sitos-terol;
- eventuellement de dicetyl phosphate;
- eventuellement, de substances cosmetiques acti~
ves de nature hydrosoluble, et - d'eau demineralisee pouvant contenir un conser-vateur.
Dans une seconde phase, on ajoute l'huile que l'on disperse par agitation mecanique intense à la temperature ambiante et, de preférence, à une température d'environ 40 C. C'est au cours de cette deuxième phase que l'on peut éventuellement incorporer des substances cosmetiques liposo-lubles, des parfums et/ou des gelifiants.
EXEMPLE 1: Essais comparatifs entre une composition cosmetique selon l'invention et une composition cosmetique de type connu.
On prépare deux composition (A) et tB) rigou-reusement identiques à cette différence pres que la prépa-ration de la composition (B) ne comporte pas de seconde phase d'addition d'huile.
La composition ~A) contient les ingrédients sui-vants:
lère phase:
- lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule :
R _ (OCH2 IH)~ OH
Cfl2H
dans laquelle R est un radical hexadécyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne égale à 3 .................. 3,8 g - ~-sitostérol ................................. 3,8 g - Dicétyl phosphate ............................ 0,4 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de méthyle ............... 0,3 g - Eau déminéralisée ............................ 66,7 g 2ème phase: On ajoute à la dispersion ci-dessus 25 g d'huile de tournesol; on soumet le tout a une agitation mécanique pour obtenir la dispersion finale.
On prépare de la même façon la composition cos-métique (~) mals sans seconde phase d'addition d'huile dc tournesol, les 25 g d'hulle étant alors remplacés par une quant~te iden-tique d'eau déminéralisée.
La composition cosmétique (A) se distingue pa~
conséquent de la composition cosmétique (B) en ce qu'elle contient 25 % d'huile de tournesol.
1) Mesures du coefficient de friction de la p~au au cours de l'etalement des compositions cosmetiques (A) et (s).
On mesure le coefficient de friction de la peau iS~
au cours de l'étalement des compositions cosmetiques (A) ou (B) sur l'avant~bras d'un sujet, à l'aide d'un palpeur ani-me d'un mouvement de rotation; on enregistre l'evolution du couple resistant au niveau du palpeur lors de sa rotation sur lui-même; le palpeur est applique à force constante (20 ou 50 g).
On obtient les resultats suivants:
Variation du coefficient de fric-tion de la peau mesuré 15 minutes après l'application.
Sous une force Sous une force de 20 g de 50 g Composition (B) l + 209 l t- 245 Composition (A) selon l'invention (contenant - 40 - 60 25 % d'huile de tour-nesol ) On observe que la composition (B), c'est-à-dire la dispersion aqueuse de sphérules lipidiques qui ne contient pas l'huile, augmente sensiblement le coefficient de friction de ;la peau alors que la composition (A) selon l'invention, c'est-à-dire une dispersion de spherules qui contien~ de l'huile permet d'obtenir un effet inverse. Cet abaissement signifi-catif du coefficient de friEtior~ de la peau traduit sur le plan cosmetique, l'effet de douceur apporte par la formula-tion (A) selon l'invention.
2) Mesure du module d'elasticite du stratum corneum humain effectue in vitro avant et apres application des compo-sitions cosmetiques (A) et (B) ci-dessus r Ces mesures ont ete realisees sur un appareil de laboratoire destine a mesurer le module d'elasticite de la peau. Un tel appareil de laboratoire se trouve decrit dans le brevet français n2.435.029 du 31 août 1981.
Les conditions experimentales sont les suivantes:
humidite relative: 72 % + 2 temperature: 30 C _ 0,2 quantite de produit applique: 5 mg/cm ;, On obtient les resultats suivants:
PRODUITS TESTES ~ de reduction moyen du module d'elasticite l h 30 apres l'applicatlon ~
Composition (B) 0 r Composition (A) selon + 15 l'invention .,~
Les resultats ci-dessus montrent de façon signifi-cative, la difference de plasticite de la cornee, selon que l'on y applique une dispersion de spherules sans phase ~ui-leuse ou une dispersion de spherules avec une phase huileu-se.
EXEMPLE 2: Fluide de soins pour le corps.
lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indique, on fabrique une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques a partir des substances suivantes:
- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de ~ormule generale B~15~3 R ~ (OCH2 ~H)n OH
dans laquelle R est.un radical hexacécyl et n a une valeur statisti.que moyenne égale ~ 3 ........... 4,5 g - ~-sitostérol ........................................ 4,5 g - Dicétyl phosphate ................................... 1,0 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de méthyle ...................... 0,3 g - Sel de sodium de l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique. 2,0 g - Eau démineralisee ................................... 56,5 g 2ème phase: On ajoute à la dispersion de spherules obtenue dans la lère phase, les substances suivantes:
- Parfum ............................................... 0,4 g - Huile de tournesol .................................. 10,0 g - Melange d'acides carboxyvinyliques commercialise sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940" (marque de commerce)0,4 g - Triéthanolamine ..................................... 0,4 g - Eau deminéralisée ................................... 20,0 g EXEMPLE 3: Flulde de soins pour le visage -lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indiqué, on fabrique une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques à partir des substances suivantes:
- Liplde amphiphile non-ionique de formule generale R _ (OCH2 -CH) OH
dans laquelle R est un radical hexadecyl et n a une valeur égale à 2 ................................ 6,0 g - Cholestérol ......................................... 1,6 g - Dicétyl phosphate ................................... 0,4 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de methyle ...................... 0,3 g - Eau déminéralisee ................................... 61,1 g ~815~
2ème phase: On ajoute à la dispersion de spherules obtenue dans la lère phase, les substallces suivantes:
- Parfum .............................................. 0,2 g - Huile de pepins de raisin ........................... 20,0 g - Melange d'acides carboxyvinyli~ues commercialisé
sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940" marque de commerce 0,2 g - Triethanolamine ..................................... 0,2 g - Eau demineralisee ................................... 10,0 g EXEMPLE 4: Fluide de soins pour les mains.
lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indique, on fabrique une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques à partir des substances suivantes:
- Phytostérols polyoxyéthylénés (répartition sta-tistique de valeur moyenne égale à 5) ............... 6,0 g - Cholestérol ......................................... 2,0 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de méthyle ...................... 0,3 g - Eau déminéralisée ................................... 45,7 g 2ème phase: On ajoute à la dispersion de spherules obtenue dans la lère phase, les substances suivantes:
- Parfum .............................................. 0,2 g - Huile de jojoba ..................................... 25,0 g - Melange d'acides carboxyvinyliques commercialise sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940" marque de commerce 0,4 g - Triethanolamine ..................................... 0,4 g - Eau demineralisee ................................... 20,0 g EXEMPLE 5: Fluide de soins pour le corps.
lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indique, on fabrique une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lipidi~ues a partir des substances suivantes:
- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule generale - 13 ~
8~
R - (OCH2 -CH)----VH
dans laquelle R est un radical hexadécyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne egale a 3 ........................... 4,0 g - Cholesterol ........................................... 4,0 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de methyle ........................ 0,3 g - Eau demineralisee ..................................... 45,5 g 2ème phase : On a~oute à la dispersion de spherules obtenue dans la lère phase, les substances suivantes:
- Parfum ................................................ 0,4 g - Huile de Mais ......................................... 25,0 g - Melange d'acides carboxyvinyliques commercialise sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940'ti' marque de commerce 0,4 g - Triethanolamine ....................................... 0,4 g - Eau demineralisee ..................................... 20,0 g EXEMPLE 6: Fluide de soins pour le visa~e lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indique, on fabrique une disper-20 sion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques à partir des substances suivantes:
- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule génerale R - (OCH2 lEl)n OH
dans laquelle R est un radical hexadecyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne egale a 3 ................ 0,95 g - ~-sitosterol .......................................... 0,95 g - Dicetyl phosphate ..................................... 0,10 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de methyle ........................ 0,30 g - Eau demineralisee ..................................... 64,80 y 2eme phase: On ajoute a la dispersion de spherules obtenue dans la lere phase, les substances suivantes:
~1~8:1S~
- Parfum .........~.......................................... 0,4 g - Huile de Soja ................................... ......... 10,0 g - Insaponifiables de Soja ........................... 2,0 g - Hydroxyéthyl cellolose commercialisée sous le nom de " Natrosol 250 HHRII marque de commerce 0,5 g - Eau demineralisée ................................. 20,0 g EXEMPLE 7: Fluide de soins solaire.
lere phase: Comme ci-dessus indiqué, on fabrique une disper-10 sion aqueuse de sphérules lipidiques à partir des substances suivantes:
- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule generale R -(OCH2 fH)n OH
dans laquelle R est un radical hexadécyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne egale a 3 ................ 3,6 g - ~-sitostérol ...................................... 3,6 g - Bromure de didodécyl-diméthyl-ammonium ............ 0,8 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de méthyle .................... 0,3 g - Eau déminéralisée ................................. 45,9 g 2ème phase: On ajoute ~ la dispersion de sphérules obtenue dans la l~rc phase, les substances suivantes:
- Parfum ............................................ 0,4 g - Huile de Courge ................................... 22,0 g - Paradiméthylamino benzoate de 2-ethylhexyle ........ 3,0 g - Gomme adragante .................................... 0,4 g - Eau deminéralisee ................................. 20,0 g EXEMPLE 8: Fluide de soins pour les mains.
lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indiqué, on fabrique une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques à partir des substances ~16~58 suivantes: -- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule generale R - (OCH2 ~ Oll dans laquelle R est un radical hexadécyl et h a une valeur statistique moyenne egale a 3 ................. 3,8 g - ~-sitosterol ....................................... 3,8 g - Dicetyl phosphate ...................,.............. 0,4 g - Parahydroxy benzoate de methyle ................... . 0,3 g - Glycerine ......................................... . 3,0 g - Eau demineralisee ................................. 42,5 g 2ème ~hase: On ajoute à la dispersion de spherules ob-tenue dans la lere phase, les substances suivantes:
- Parfum ............................................ . 0,2 g - Huile de Purcellin ................................ 25,0 g - Satiagum .......................................... . 1,0 g - Eau demineralisee ................................. 20,0 g EXEMPLE 9: Fluide de soins pour le corps.
lere phase: Comme ci-dessus indique, on ~abr.klue une disper-sion aqueuse de spherules lip.iciiqucs a partir des substances suivantes:
- Lipide amphiphile non-ionique de formule generale 2 Tl~ ~ OH
CH2O n dans laquelle R est un radical hexadecyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne egale a 3 ................ . 3,8 g - ~-sitosterol ...................................... . 3,8 g - Dicetyl phosphate ................................. . 0,4 g - Parahydroxybenzoate de methyle .................... . 0,3 g - Eau demineralisée ................................. 60,5 g S~
2ème phase: On ajoute ~ la dispersion de sphérules obtenue dans la lère phase les substances suivantes:
- Parfum ..........................~........................ 0,4 g - Tricapro-caprylate de glycérol ..................... ..... 10,0 g - Mélange d'acides carboxyvinyliques commercialise sous le nom de " C~RBOPOL 940" marque de commerce 0,4 g - Tri-éthanolamine ................................... ...... 0,4 g - Eau demineralisee ............ ,.. ~.... ,............ 20,0 g EXEMPLE 10: Crème de soins pour le visage.
lère phase: Comme ci-dessus indiqué, on fabrique une dis-persion aqueuse de spherules lipidiques à partir des subs-tances suivantes:
-lipide amphiphile non ionique de formule generale R ~-OCH2 - CH~ OH
l cH2HJn dans laquelle R est un redical hexadecyl et n a une valeur statistique moyenne egale à 3 ..... ..... ............. . 3,8 g - ~-sitosterol .................... ..... ............. . 3,8 g - Dicetyl phosphate ............... ..... ............. . 0,4 g - Conservateur .................... ..... ............. . 0,3 g - Eau demineralisee ............... ..... ............. 47,6 g 2ème phase: On ajoute à la dispersion de spherules obte-nue dans la lère phase, les substances suivantes:
- Huile de tournesol .............. ..... ............. 35,0 g - Parfum .......................... ..... ............. . 0,6 g - Melange d'acides carbo~yvinyliques commercialise sous le nom de " CARBOPOL 940" marque de commerce 0,2 g 30 - Triethanolamine ~ 0,2 g - Eau demineralisee ............... ..... ............. . 8,1 g Il est bien entendu que les modes de realisation ci-dessus decrit ne sont aucunement limitatifs et pourront donner lieu a toutes ~odifi.cations désirables sans sortir pour cela du cadre de l'invention. 2 to 40 ~ dispersed oil (s), these percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the compound tion. Advantageously, the relative weight proportion of nonionic amphiphilic lipid (s) compared to oil ~ or oils) dispersed (.5) is between 0.2 / 1 and 1/1.
The oils which can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention are taken from the group formed by] es esters of fatty acids and polyols in particular liquid triglycerides and fatty acid esters and branched alcohols of formula: R - COO-R ', formula in which R represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R 'represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 20 atoms of carbon. Among the fatty acid and polyol esters, may mention sunflower, corn, soybean oils, of squash, grapeseed, jojoba and tri-capro-glycerol caprylate. Among the esters of higher fatty acids laughers and branched alcohols, we can mention the oil of Purcellin.
The active cosmetic ingredients of the composition tion according to the invention can be encapsulated inside or outside of spherules. This is how, in a fashion preferred embodiment, the oily phase of the composition contains one or more liposolu- cosmetics wheat. These are, during the preparation of the composition sition according to the invention, previously dissolved in the oil which is intended to be added to the dispersion of lipid spherules. Among these cosmetic substances liposoluble active ingredients, Oll may in particular cite filters sunscreens such as paradimethylamino benzoate 2-ethyl hexyl or substances intended to improve the state dry or senile skin, in particular insaponifia-such as soy, avocado, unsaponifiables, tocopherols, vitamins E, F, antioxidants.
The dispersion of oil in water which constitutes the external medium of the spherule dispersion may contain at least one additive, in particular a gelifier or a perfume.
The additive is added to the dispersion together with the oil.
the. The gel can be introduced at a concentration varying between 0.1 and 2 ~, these percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Among the usable gelling agents, the derivatives of cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polymers synthetics; algae derivatives such as satiagum or still natural gums such as tragacanth. we prefer to use hydroxyethyl as gelatin cellulose, a mixture of available carboxyvinyl acids commercially under the name of "CARBOPOL 940" brand commercej of satiagum or even of the tragacanth.
Non-ionic amphiphilic lipids which are intended to constitute the concentric sheets of spherules in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are :
- linear polyglycerol ethers or esters or branched, of respective formulas:
R (OCH2CHOH-CH2) n OH
and R- - (OCH2 -CH ~ OH
H2 ~ H
formulas in which n is a name ~ re between 2 and : ~ L1ti81 ~ l ~
6 and R represents a saturated, linear aliphatic chain or branched, having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms or the hydrocarbon radical of a lanolin alcohol;
- polyoxyethylenated sterols.
At the time of the formation of the lamellar phase plane obtained by bringing amphiphilic lipids into contact non-ionic with the aqueous phase to be encapsulated, it is possible combine various auxiliary agents with said lipids, with a view to to modify for example, the permeability or the super charge spherules. In this regard, mention may be made of the possible addition of long-chain alcohols and diols, sterols, including cholesterol and ~ -sitosterol, amines a long chain and their quaternary ammonium derivatives in particular didodecyl-dimethyl-ammonium bromide, hydroxyalkyl amines, polyoxyethylenated fatty amines, esters of long-chain amino alcohols and their salts and quaternary ammonium derivatives, phosphoric esters fatty alcohols, in particular diketyl phosphate, alkylsul-fates, for example sodium cetyl sulfate, from certain polymers such as polypeptides and proteins.
In addition to the auxiliary agents mentioned above, we can add a preservative such as parahydro-Methyl xybenzoate for example.
The aqueous phase, whether internal or external, may contain a usual water-soluble cosmetic substance-Also used for facial, hand or skin care body. Among these substances, mention may be made of humectants such as glycerine, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts;
artificial browning agents such as dihydroxyace-tone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, r-dialdehydes such as tartaric aldehyde; coloring agents ~ lL16815 ~ 3 the skin; sun filters, antiperspirants, deodorants, astrinents, refreshing products, tonics, healing, keratolytics, depilatories, ~ es scented waters, extracts of animal or vegetable tissues, such as proteins, amniotic fluid, polysaccharides and anti-seborrheic agents.
To better understand the object of the invention, we will now describe them purely as examples illustrative and non-limiting, several embodiments tion.
Preparation of the given cosmetic formulations in the examples below is carried out in two phases. In a first phase, an aqueous dispersion is produced according to the process described in French patent no. 2,315,991. The aqueous dispersion of lipid spherules is prepared for go:
- a non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, - sterols such as cholesterol or ~ -sitos-terol;
- possibly dicetyl phosphate;
- possibly, cosmetic substances acti ~
water-soluble in nature, and - demineralized water which may contain a can-vateur.
In a second phase, we add the oil that we disperses by intense mechanical agitation at temperature ambient and preferably at a temperature of about 40 C. It is during this second phase that we can possibly incorporate liposo- cosmetic substances lubles, perfumes and / or gelling agents.
EXAMPLE 1 Comparative tests between a composition cosmetic according to the invention and a cosmetic composition of known type.
We prepare two composition (A) and tB) rigou-closely identical to this difference almost that the prepa-ration of composition (B) has no second oil addition phase.
Composition ~ A) contains the following ingredients:
before:
1st phase:
- nonionic amphiphilic lipid of formula:
R _ (OCH2 IH) ~ OH
Cfl2H
in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has a value average statistic equal to 3 .................. 3.8 g - ~ -sitosterol ................................. 3.8 g - Diketyl phosphate ............................ 0.4 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ............... 0.3 g - Demineralized water ............................ 66.7 g 2nd phase: 25 g are added to the above dispersion sunflower oil; we subject everything to agitation mechanical to obtain the final dispersion.
The composition cos- is prepared in the same way.
metic (~) evils without second oil addition phase dc sunflower, the 25 g of hulle then being replaced by a quant ~ te identical to demineralized water.
The cosmetic composition (A) differs pa ~
consequence of the cosmetic composition (B) in that it contains 25% sunflower oil.
1) Measuring the coefficient of friction of the p ~ during spreading the cosmetic compositions (A) and (s).
We measure the coefficient of friction of the skin iS ~
during the spreading of the cosmetic compositions (A) or (B) on the forearm of a subject, using an ani-me with a rotational movement; we record the evolution of resistant torque at the probe during its rotation on himself; the probe is applied at constant force (20 or 50 g).
The following results are obtained:
Change in the coefficient of cash tion of the skin measured 15 minutes after application.
Under a force Under a force 20 g 50 g Composition (B) l + 209 l t- 245 Composition (A) according to the invention (containing - 40 - 60 25% tower oil nesol) We observe that the composition (B), i.e.
the aqueous dispersion of lipid spherules which does not contain not oil, significantly increases the coefficient of friction of the skin while the composition (A) according to the invention, that is to say a dispersion of spherules which contains ~ oil provides an opposite effect. This lowering means cative of the coefficient of friEtior ~ of the skin reflected on the cosmetically, the softness effect brought by the formula-tion (A) according to the invention.
2) Measurement of the modulus of elasticity of the human stratum corneum performed in vitro before and after application of the cosmetic sections (A) and (B) above r These measurements were carried out on a laboratory intended to measure the modulus of elasticity of the skin. Such a laboratory device is described in French Patent No. 2,435,029 of August 31, 1981.
The experimental conditions are as follows:
relative humidity: 72% + 2 temperature: 30 C _ 0.2 amount of product applied: 5 mg / cm;, The following results are obtained:
TESTED PRODUCTS ~ average reduction of the module elasticity lh 30 after the applicatlon ~
Composition (B) 0 r Composition (A) according to + 15 the invention ., ~
The above results show significantly cative, the difference in plasticity of the cornea, depending on whether we apply a dispersion of spherules without phase ~ ui-or a dispersion of spherules with an oily phase se.
EXAMPLE 2 Care fluid for the body.
1st phase: As above indicates, we manufacture a dispersal aqueous lipid spherules from the substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of ~ general ormule B ~ 15 ~ 3 R ~ (OCH2 ~ H) n OH
in which R is a hexacecyl radical and na an average statistic value equal to ~ 3 ........... 4.5 g - ~ -sitosterol ........................................ 4.5 g - Diketyl phosphate ................................... 1.0 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ...................... 0.3 g - Sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. 2.0 g - Demineralized water ................................... 56.5 g 2nd phase: Add to the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase, the following substances:
- Perfume ............................................... 0 , 4 g - Sunflower oil .................................. 10.0 g - Mixture of carboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "CARBOPOL 940" (trademark) 0.4 g - Triethanolamine ..................................... 0.4 g - Demineralized water ................................... 20.0 g EXAMPLE 3 Facial care fluid -1st phase: As above indicated, a disperser is made aqueous lipid spherules from the substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic multiplier of general formula R _ (OCH2 -CH) OH
in which R is a hexadecyl radical and na a value equal to 2 ................................ 6.0 g - Cholesterol ......................................... 1.6 g - Diketyl phosphate ................................... 0.4 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ...................... 0.3 g - Demineralized water ................................... 61.1 g ~ 815 ~
2nd phase: Add to the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase, the following substallces:
- Perfume .............................................. 0, 2 g - Grapeseed oil ........................... 20.0 g - Mixture of carboxyvinyli acids ~ ues marketed under the name of "CARBOPOL 940" trademark 0.2 g - Triethanolamine ..................................... 0.2 g - Demineralized water ................................... 10.0 g EXAMPLE 4 Hand care fluid.
1st phase: As above indicates, we manufacture a dispersal aqueous lipid spherules from the substances following:
- Polyoxyethylenated phytosterols (sta-average value equal to 5) ............... 6.0 g - Cholesterol ......................................... 2.0 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ...................... 0.3 g - Demineralized water ................................... 45.7 g 2nd phase: Add to the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase, the following substances:
- Perfume .............................................. 0, 2 g - Jojoba oil ..................................... 25.0 g - Mixture of carboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "CARBOPOL 940" trademark 0.4 g - Triethanolamine ..................................... 0.4 g - Demineralized water ................................... 20.0 g EXAMPLE 5: Body care fluid.
1st phase: As above indicates, we manufacture a dispersal aqueous sion of lipid spherules ~ ues from substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula - 13 ~
8 ~
R - (OCH2 -CH) ---- VH
in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has a value mean statistic equal to 3 ........................... 4.0 g - Cholesterol ........................................... 4.0 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ........................ 0.3 g - Demineralized water ..................................... 45.5 g 2nd phase: We got the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase, the following substances:
- Perfume ................................................ 0.4 g - Corn oil ......................................... 25.0 g - Mixture of carboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "CARBOPOL 940'ti 'trademark 0.4 g - Triethanolamine ....................................... 0.4 g - Demineralized water ..................................... 20.0 g EXAMPLE 6: Fluid for visa care 1st phase: As above indicates, we manufacture a dispersal 20 aqueous solution of lipid spherules from the substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula R - (OCH2 lEl) n OH
in which R is a hexadecyl radical and na an average statistical value equal to 3 ................ 0.95 g - ~ -sitosterol .......................................... 0.95 g - Dicetyl phosphate ..................................... 0.10 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ........................ 0.30 g - Demineralized water ..................................... 64.80 y 2nd phase: We add to the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase, the following substances:
~ 1 ~ 8: 1S ~
- Perfume ......... ~ ...................................... .... 0.4 g - Soybean Oil ................................... ......... 10, 0 g - Soy unsaponifiables ........................... 2.0 g - Hydroxyethyl cellolose sold under the name of "Natrosol 250 HHRII trademark 0.5 g - Demineralized water ................................. 20.0 g EXAMPLE 7: Solar care fluid.
1st phase: As indicated above, a disperser is made 10 aqueous solution of lipid spherules from the substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula R - (OCH2 fH) n OH
in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has a mean statistical value equal to 3 ................ 3.6 g - ~ -sitosterol ...................................... 3.6 g - Didodecyl-dimethyl-ammonium bromide ............ 0.8 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate .................... 0.3 g - Demineralized water ................................. 45.9 g 2nd phase: We add ~ the dispersion of spherules obtained in the l ~ rc phase, the following substances:
- Perfume ............................................ 0.4 g - Pumpkin oil ................................... 22.0 g - 2-Ethylhexyl paradimethylamino benzoate ........ 3.0 g - tragacanth gum .................................... 0.4 g - Demineralized water ................................. 20.0 g EXAMPLE 8 Hand care fluid.
1st phase: As above indicated, a disperser is made aqueous lipid spherules from the substances ~ 16 ~ 58 following: -- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula R - (OCH2 ~ Oll in which R is a hexadecyl radical and ha a mean statistical value equal to 3 ................. 3.8 g - ~ -sitosterol ....................................... 3.8 g - Dicetyl phosphate ..................., .............. 0.4 g - Methyl parahydroxy benzoate .................... 0.3 g - Glycerine .......................................... 3.0g - Demineralized water ................................. 42.5 g 2nd ~ hase: We add to the dispersion of spherules ob-held in the 1st phase, the following substances:
- Perfume ............................................. 0.2g - Purcellin oil ................................ 25.0 g - Satiagum ........................................... 1.0 g - Demineralized water ................................. 20.0 g EXAMPLE 9 Care fluid for the body.
1st phase: As above indicates, we ~ abr.klue a disper-aqueous solution of lip spheres here from the substances following:
- Non-ionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula 2 Tl ~ ~ OH
CH2O n in which R is a hexadecyl radical and has a mean statistical value equal to 3 ................. 3.8g - ~ -sitosterol ....................................... 3.8g - Dicetyl phosphate .................................. 0.4 g - Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ..................... 0.3 g - Demineralized water ................................. 60.5 g S ~
2nd phase: We add ~ the dispersion of spherules obtained in the 1st phase the following substances:
- Perfume .......................... ~ ..................... ... 0.4 g - Glycerol tricapro-caprylate ..................... ..... 10.0 g - Mixture of carboxyvinyl acids sold under the name of "C ~ RBOPOL 940" trademark 0.4 g - Tri-ethanolamine ................................... ...... 0.4 g - Demineralized water ............, .. ~ ...., ............ 20.0 g EXAMPLE 10 Face care cream.
1st phase: As indicated above, a device is manufactured aqueous persion of lipid spherules from subs-following tances:
- nonionic amphiphilic lipid of general formula R ~ -OCH2 - CH ~ OH
l cH2HJn where R is a hexadecyl redical and has a value average statistic equal to 3 ..... ..... .............. 3.8g - ~ -sitosterol .................... ..... .............. 3.8g - Dicetyl phosphate ............... ..... .............. 0.4 g - Conservative .................... ..... ............. . 0.3 g - Demineralized water ............... ..... ............. 47.6 g 2nd phase: Add to the dispersion of spherules obtained naked in the 1st phase, the following substances:
- Sunflower oil .............. ..... ............. 35.0 g - Perfume .......................... ..... .............. 0.6g - Mixture of carbo ~ yvinyl acids sold under the name of "CARBOPOL 940" trademark 0.2 g 30 - Triethanolamine ~ 0.2 g - Demineralized Water ............... ..... ............. . 8.1 g It is understood that the embodiments above described are in no way limiting and may give rise to all ~ desirable odifi.cations without going out for this the scope of the invention.
Claims (18)
20 atomes de carbone et R' représente une chaîne hydrocar-bonée ramifiée contenant de 3 à 20 atomes de carbone. 1. Cosmetic composition consisting of a dis-aqueous persion of spherules composed of molecular layers res organized between which is encapsulated a phase internal aqueous, these layers consisting of at least a nonionic amphiphilic lipid, characterized by the fact at least one oil is dispersed in the aqueous phase which surrounds the spherules, said oil being chosen sie in the group comprising fatty acid esters and polyols, and esters of fatty acids and alcohols branched of formula R-COOR ', formula in which R represents smells the rest of a higher fatty acid comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and R 'represents a hydrocarbon chain branched bonée containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
l'huile (ou aux huiles) dispersée(s) étant comprise entre 0,2/1 et 1/1. 5. Composition according to claim 1, 3 or 4 characterized by the fact that it contains from 2 to 10% of nonionic amphiphilic lipid (s) constituting the pa-kings of spherules, and from 2 to 40% of dispersed oil (s), these percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the relative weight proportion non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) relative to the dispersed oil (or oils) being between 0.2 / 1 and 1/1.
en poids de gélifiant(s), ces pourcentages étant exprimés en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 6. Composition according to claim 1 charac-sed by the fact that the external phase contains 0.1 to 2%
by weight of gelling agent (s), these percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
améliorer l'état des peaux sèches ou séniles ou un antioxy-dant. 9. Composition according to claim 8, charac-terrified by the fact that the liposoluble cosmetic substance constitutes a sunscreen, a substance intended for improve the condition of dry or senile skin or an antioxy-dant.
- des éthers ou esters de polyglycérol linéraires ou ramifiés de formules respectives: et formules dans lesquelles n est un nombre compris entre 2 et 6 et R représente une chaîne aliphatique saturée, linéaire ou ramifiée, comportant de 16 à 20 atomes de carbone ou le radical hydrocarboné d'un alcool de lanoline;
- des stérols polyoxyéthylénés. 10. Composition according to claim 1, charac-terrified by the fact that nonionic amphiphilic lipids, which constitute the walls of the spherules, are:
- linear polyglycerol ethers or esters or branched from respective formulas: and formulas in which n is a number between 2 and 6 and R represents a saturated, linear aliphatic chain or branched, having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms or the hydrocarbon radical of a lanolin alcohol;
- polyoxyethylenated sterols.
longue chaîne et leurs dérivés ammoniun quaternaire, les hydroxyalkyl amines, les amines grasses polyoxyéthylénées, les esters d'amino-alcools à longue chaîne et leurs sels et dérivés ammonium quaternaire, les polymères et les esters phosphoriques d'alcools gras. 11. Composition according to claim 10, charac-terrified by the fact that nonionic amphiphilic lipids are associated with auxiliary agents chosen from the group including long chain alcohols and diols, sterols including cholesterol and .beta.-sitosterol, the amines to long chain and their quaternary ammonium derivatives, hydroxyalkyl amines, polyoxyethylenated fatty amines, esters of long chain amino alcohols and their salts and quaternary ammonium derivatives, polymers and esters phosphoric fatty alcohols.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8014657A FR2485921A1 (en) | 1980-07-01 | 1980-07-01 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON AN AQUEOUS DISPERSION OF LIPID SPHERULES |
| FR8014657 | 1980-07-01 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1168158A true CA1168158A (en) | 1984-05-29 |
Family
ID=9243726
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA000380902A Expired CA1168158A (en) | 1980-07-01 | 1981-06-30 | Cosmetic composition with an aqueous dispersion of lipidic globules |
Country Status (8)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (2) | JPS5777613A (en) |
| BE (2) | BE889451A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1168158A (en) |
| CH (1) | CH649915A5 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3125710A1 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2485921A1 (en) |
| GB (1) | GB2079179B (en) |
| IT (1) | IT1144739B (en) |
Families Citing this family (42)
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2509988B1 (en) * | 1981-07-23 | 1986-05-30 | Oreal | MIXTURE OF VEGETABLE OILS BASED ON JOJOBA OIL AS AN OXIDATION STABILIZING AGENT AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THE SAME |
| FR2569561B1 (en) * | 1984-08-30 | 1990-05-18 | Oreal | STABLE ANTHRALIN COMPOSITION IN SATURATED FATTY ACID TRIGLYCERIDES OF PLANT ORIGIN WITH 6 TO 12 CARBON ATOMS |
| FR2571963B1 (en) * | 1984-10-24 | 1987-07-10 | Oreal | COMPOSITION FOR COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL USE CONTAINING NIOSOMES AND AT LEAST ONE WATER-SOLUBLE POLYAMIDE AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME. |
| JPH0676308B2 (en) * | 1985-06-18 | 1994-09-28 | ポーラ化成工業株式会社 | External skin preparation |
| US4777035A (en) * | 1985-11-15 | 1988-10-11 | Bristol-Myers Company | Antiperspirant composition and process |
| MY101125A (en) * | 1985-12-23 | 1991-07-31 | Kao Corp | Gel-like emulsion and o/w emulsions obtained from gel-like emulsion |
| US5000960A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1991-03-19 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Protein coupling to lipid vesicles |
| US4911928A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1990-03-27 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Paucilamellar lipid vesicles |
| US5234767A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1993-08-10 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles |
| US5023086A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1991-06-11 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Encapsulated ionophore growth factors |
| US5628936A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1997-05-13 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Hybrid paucilamellar lipid vesicles |
| US4855090A (en) * | 1987-03-13 | 1989-08-08 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Method of producing high aqueous volume multilamellar vesicles |
| US4917951A (en) * | 1987-07-28 | 1990-04-17 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Lipid vesicles formed of surfactants and steroids |
| US5032457A (en) * | 1988-03-03 | 1991-07-16 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Paucilamellar lipid vesicles using charge-localized, single chain, nonphospholipid surfactants |
| US5160669A (en) * | 1988-03-03 | 1992-11-03 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Method of making oil filled paucilamellar lipid vesicles |
| US5019392A (en) * | 1988-03-03 | 1991-05-28 | Micro-Pak, Inc. | Encapsulation of parasiticides |
| US5019174A (en) * | 1988-03-03 | 1991-05-28 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Removing oil from surfaces with liposomal cleaner |
| US6132763A (en) * | 1988-10-20 | 2000-10-17 | Polymasc Pharmaceuticals Plc | Liposomes |
| DE3836971C1 (en) * | 1988-10-31 | 1990-05-17 | Weck, Wolfgang, Dr.Med., 6990 Bad Mergentheim, De | |
| FR2648462B1 (en) * | 1989-06-15 | 1994-01-28 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR IMPROVING THE THERAPEUTIC EFFICIENCY OF LIPOSOLUBLE CORTICOSTEROIDS AND COMPOSITION FOR CARRYING OUT SAID METHOD |
| FR2655542B1 (en) * | 1989-12-13 | 1994-02-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION CONTAINING ESSENTIAL OILS. |
| FR2655540B1 (en) * | 1989-12-13 | 1994-02-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR HAIR CARE AND USE OF THE SAME. |
| FR2657607B1 (en) * | 1990-01-30 | 1992-04-30 | Durand Muriel | METHOD FOR PROTECTING DIHYDROXYACETONE, DIHYDROXYACETONE PROTECTED BY THIS PROCESS AND COSMETIC PRODUCT CONTAINING SUCH PROTECTED DIHYDROXYACETONE. |
| US5256422A (en) * | 1991-03-28 | 1993-10-26 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Lipid vesicle containing water-in-oil emulsions |
| US5213805A (en) * | 1991-07-25 | 1993-05-25 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Lipid vesicles having n,n-dimethylamide derivatives as their primary lipid |
| US5260065A (en) * | 1991-09-17 | 1993-11-09 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Blended lipid vesicles |
| US5405615A (en) * | 1991-09-17 | 1995-04-11 | Micro Vesicular Systems, Inc. | Sucrose distearate lipid vesicles |
| FR2701396B1 (en) * | 1993-02-12 | 1995-04-21 | Oreal | Method for stabilizing vesicles of amphiphilic lipid (s) and composition for topical application containing said stabilized vesicles. |
| FR2722102B1 (en) | 1994-07-11 | 1996-08-23 | Cird Galderma | USE OF DEFORMABLE HOLLOW PARTICLES IN A COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING FAT MATERIALS |
| FR2723848B1 (en) | 1994-08-31 | 1997-06-20 | Oreal | COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING ENCAPSULATED PLANT EXTRACTS |
| FR2730928B1 (en) * | 1995-02-23 | 1997-04-04 | Oreal | COMPOSITION BASED ON LIPIDIC VESICLES WITH ACIDIC PH AND USE THEREOF IN TOPICAL APPLICATION |
| FR2742674B1 (en) | 1995-12-21 | 1998-02-06 | Oreal | STABLE DISPERSION OF A PHASE NOT MISCIBLE IN WATER, IN AN AQUEOUS PHASE BY MEANS OF VESICLES BASED ON SILICONE SURFACTANT |
| DE19703368C1 (en) * | 1997-01-30 | 1998-10-01 | Klaus Dr Goebel | Rapid production of homogeneous stable cream from storage-stable powder without mechanical work |
| WO1998053799A2 (en) * | 1997-05-28 | 1998-12-03 | Jenner Biotherapies, Inc. | Immunogenic compositions |
| FR2790975B1 (en) * | 1999-03-16 | 2001-06-01 | Capsulis | MEDIA IN THE FORM OF COMPLEX DISPERSIONS, THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS AND THEIR USES |
| PL353643A1 (en) * | 1999-07-13 | 2003-12-01 | Pharmasol Gmbhpharmasol Gmbh | Uv radiation reflecting or absorbing agents, protecting against harmful uv radiation and reinforcing the natural skin barrier |
| US9506001B2 (en) | 2004-04-05 | 2016-11-29 | Kanagawa University | Emulsification dispersants, a method for emulsification and dispersion using the emulsification dispersants, emulsions, and emulsion fuels |
| US9139850B2 (en) | 2005-05-19 | 2015-09-22 | L'oreal | Vectorization of dsRNA by cationic particles and topical use |
| FR2885808B1 (en) * | 2005-05-19 | 2007-07-06 | Oreal | VECTORIZATION OF DSRNA BY CATIONIC PARTICLES AND TOPICAL USE. |
| JP6274477B2 (en) * | 2010-12-21 | 2018-02-07 | 学校法人神奈川大学 | Manufacturing method of emulsifier manufacturing material, emulsifying material, and manufacturing method of emulsifier |
| US9549891B2 (en) | 2012-03-19 | 2017-01-24 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Superabsorbent polymers and sunscreen actives for use in skin care compositions |
| CN107787222B (en) | 2015-06-29 | 2020-12-04 | 宝洁公司 | Superabsorbent polymers and starch powders for use in skin care compositions |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE3161962D1 (en) * | 1980-07-01 | 1984-02-23 | Oreal | Process for obtaining stable dispersions in an aqueous phase of at least a water immiscible liquid phase, and corresponding dispersions |
-
1980
- 1980-07-01 FR FR8014657A patent/FR2485921A1/en active Granted
-
1981
- 1981-06-30 BE BE0/205268A patent/BE889451A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-06-30 GB GB8120182A patent/GB2079179B/en not_active Expired
- 1981-06-30 DE DE19813125710 patent/DE3125710A1/en active Granted
- 1981-06-30 BE BE0/205269A patent/BE889452A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1981-06-30 CA CA000380902A patent/CA1168158A/en not_active Expired
- 1981-06-30 IT IT67906/81A patent/IT1144739B/en active
- 1981-07-01 JP JP56101397A patent/JPS5777613A/en active Granted
- 1981-07-01 JP JP56101398A patent/JPS5794326A/en active Granted
- 1981-07-01 CH CH4357/81A patent/CH649915A5/en not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| IT8167906A0 (en) | 1981-06-30 |
| BE889452A (en) | 1981-12-30 |
| GB2079179B (en) | 1984-03-07 |
| JPS5794326A (en) | 1982-06-11 |
| DE3125710C2 (en) | 1988-09-22 |
| FR2485921B1 (en) | 1983-07-22 |
| JPS5777613A (en) | 1982-05-15 |
| JPS6333414B2 (en) | 1988-07-05 |
| FR2485921A1 (en) | 1982-01-08 |
| DE3125710A1 (en) | 1982-03-25 |
| BE889451A (en) | 1981-12-30 |
| GB2079179A (en) | 1982-01-20 |
| IT1144739B (en) | 1986-10-29 |
| CH649915A5 (en) | 1985-06-28 |
| JPH0210803B2 (en) | 1990-03-09 |
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