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Voron V2 Gantry Squaring

Why?

Poor gantry squaring can cause a number of problems.
Notice that the idlers get "pinched" when moving the X extrusion back/forth (this is shown with loose Z joints).

Pinch.mp4

This can potentially cause:

  • First Layer issues
  • Z belts rubbing against the gantry's printed parts
  • X axis to be "racked" at the front but not the back (or vice versa)

"Bonus" steps 14-16 can also help with first layer and with gantry stability.

Method

1) Modify the timeout setting your [idle_timeout] config section. Set it to an arbitrarily high value (in seconds) and reload.

  • This just gives us time to work. We need the Z motors to be energized and holding for the whole process.

2) G28, then QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL.

3) Jog your gantry to the center of the build volume using the LCD or web interface.

  • This will give you space to work. You need easy access to both the bottom and top of your gantry.

4) Turn off ONLY your A/B motors using these g-codes:

  • SET_STEPPER_ENABLE STEPPER=stepper_x ENABLE=0
  • SET_STEPPER_ENABLE STEPPER=stepper_y ENABLE=0

5) Loosen your A/B belt tension fully.

  • This prevents the A/B belt tension from pulling the gantry out of alignment while you work on it.

  • Your belts should be fully disengaged. If there is still remaining tension with the idlers fully backed off, you may need to release the belt ends from the X carriage.

6) Take off your left/right side panels.

7) Unscrew and drop your lower Z joints.

  • Your gantry will now be floating on just the belts.

    • Make sure your printer is on a fairly level surface, otherwise your gantry could swing too much to one side. (it doesn't have to be perfect, just don't do it on a hill),

8) PARTIALLY loosen all connections to the extrusions.

  • You need all of these bolts to be loose enough to freely adjust against the printed part on the extrusions.

  • ⚠️⚠️ Where there are Z belt clamps, ensure that you do not loosen the bolts so much that the Z belts release. Only loosen enough to allow for adjustments. ⚠️⚠️

  • X/Y joints (repeat for both sides).

    • Top:

    • Bottom:

  • A/B joints (repeat for both sides):

    • Top:

      • Don't overdo the belt clamps!

    • Bottom:

      • Don't overdo the belt clamps!

  • Front idlers (repeat for both sides):

    • Top:
      • Don't overdo it!
    • Bottom:
      • Don't overdo it!

9) And now - what we have been prepping for! Adjust your gantry so that it sits perfectly on top of the lower Z joints.

  • This involves moving gantry components further apart or closer together along the extrusions:

    • Rear
    • Sides

  • Your gantry should align so that:

    • The Z joints feel perfectly flush along the side, and

    • When raising and lowering your lower Z joint by hand, the bolt should slide in perfectly without hitting the sides.

  • Ensure that you do not inadvertently rotate your A/B joints during this process.

    • (Exaggerated)

10) Tighten every extrusion bolt again, except those in the X/Y joints. (you will tighten those during step 12)

  • Ensure that your Z joints still align properly. Sometimes tightening can move things around.

11) Re-install your lower Z joints and lightly tighten the M5 bolts.

  • Do NOT hulk them down yet, or even make them tight. The "ball joint" should still be able to articulate completely freely.

12) Follow 📄Nero's de-racking video.

  • Make sure to come back here afterwards! The following steps are still important.

13) 📄Re-tension your A/B belts (to 110hz over a 15cm span).

  • Don't miss the video link in that post. It's easy to overlook.
  • Apps:
    • Android: Gates Carbon Drive (select "motorcyle" option) or Spectroid.
    • iPhone: Gates Carbon Drive (select "motorcyle" option) or Sound Spectrum Analysis.

14) Reinstall your panels and fully heatsoak your printer for 1½ - 2 hours minimum.

15) QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL 3-5 times to "settle in" the gantry (and level it for the next step).

  • If you are having new Z accuracy issues, you may have left your Z joints a bit too loose.

16) Open the front door and fully hulk-tighten the M5 bolts in your Z joints* while it's still hot.

* Unless your parts are printed in eSun ABS+. It's more brittle than regular ABS. Just tighten them "pretty tight".

  • This does two things:
    • Somewhat "locks in" your QGL at its state in full thermal expansion.
      • This has helped a number of people with their first layer issues.
    • Stabilizes your gantry.
      • If you had it "tight but not too tight, so the Z joints can still articulate" (as is often recommended), you will notice that your gantry displaces back/forth while printing.
      • This can help with ringing and layer consistency.

17) Restore your [idle_timeout] settings (changed in step 1).

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