The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See C-grade.[4]
A technique by which a climber descends via a fixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixed anchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See tat and cord.
Type of protection that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of passive protection. See cams and friends.
Part of the alpine climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.[4][6]
alpine knee
An awkward climbing technique where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot.[7]
alpine start
Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5:00a.m. (and even much earlier); common to alpine climbing to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.[2]
An armchair landing
A technique in deep-water soloing for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a 30-foot (9.1 m) fall can be absorbed in just 5 feet (1.5 m) of water.[8]
A hazardous mistake of clipping the rope into a quickdraw so the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and fail.[1][10]
back-step
A back-step
Stepping on a hold where the outside edge — little toe side — of the shoe touches the rock.[1][11][12]
bail
To retreat from a climb.
ball nut
A type of protection device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.[13]
barn-door
A potential barn door swing to the right
When all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. See flagging.[2]
Glasses that are worn by the belayer to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.[14]
belay gloves
Belay glove
Gloves that are worn by the belayer to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.[14]
belay loop
The strongest point on a climbing harness, and the loop to which a belay device is physically attached.[1][2]
belay off
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "off belay" request.[15]
belay on
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "on belay" request.[15]
Information on how to complete (or protect) a particular climbing route. See on-sight and flash.[1][2][3]
beta break
In sport climbing, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.
A rock-climbing technique for overhangs where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).[17]
Big wall climbing
A long sustained sheer exposed rock climb with at least 6–10 pitches (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use of portaledges.[1]
Where the belayer uses their body, and not a mechanical belay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.[19]
boinking
A sport climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to take in the slack quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.[20]
bollard
Snow bollard
A large block of rock or ice that is used as an anchor to construct a belay.
The deliberate removal of bolts from a climb; happens on traditional climbing routes (e.g. the Indian Face); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.[3]
bolt ladder
Sequence of bolts that are so close together, they can be used by aid climbers as a ladder.[2]
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. no hammeredpitons or bolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an A-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".[4]
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed machine bolt that functions like a bolt but with no fixed bolt hanger; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a rivet hanger or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.[24]
Type of harness that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.
chest jam
Jamming the torso into a wide crack, especially to allow the climber to rest.
A broad movement that extended from the earlier free climbing movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use of bolts or pitons in sport climbing.
A type of ice climbing held on climbing walls for mostly professional ice climbers, split into the disciplines of ice lead climbing (on a bolted sport climbing dry-wall route), and ice speed climbing on an iced route. See also UIAA.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a hammer; commonly used in aid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
Dead hanging
When a climber hangs limp, such that their weight is held by arm ligament tension rather than by muscles.
deadman anchor
Also snow anchor and T-slot
An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as an anchor for an attached fixed rope.[33]
deadpoint
A controlled dynamic motion in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.[34] See dynos.
deck
The ground below a climbing route (i.e they fell to the ground and "hit the deck"). See ground fall.[2]
A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness; otherwise known as acetazolamide.[35]
dihedral
Dihedral
An open book-shaped corner formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of an arête.[1][2]
direttissima
Italian for "shortest link", is the most direct route to the summit of a mountain up the fall line (e.g. the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima on the Cima Grande, Dolomites); origin of the term is often attributed to Emilio Comici who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone".[36]
direct start
A new variation of an existing rock climbing route that avoids detours taken before the main line is reached due to their greater difficulty (e.g. Suprême Jumbo Love as a direct start to Jumbo Love).
dirtbag
A climber who lives modestly and often itinerantly, to maximize the amount of time climbing. Practitioners included Jan and Herb Conn and Fred Beckey (from the film: Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey).[37]
A type of anchor used in soft rock instead of bolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton) hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.[41][42]
drive-by
A deadpoint where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.
drop knee
Also egyptian.
Also knee drop.
Also lolotte.
An advanced rock-climbing technique where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries.[1][11]
An elastic climbing rope that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Compare static rope.[29]
dyno
In rock climbing, a dynamic jump or leap to grab an out-of-reach hold; failure to grab the hold will usually result in a fall. See also paddling and campusing.[1][2][43]
Part of the British adjectival grading system that is used to rank the level of risk (a separate grade is given for technical difficulty) of traditional climbing routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).[4]
edging
Using the edge of a climbing shoe on a narrow foothold; in the absence of footholds, smearing is used.
A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) a.s.l, of which there are only 14 in the world.
eliminate
1. A bouldering move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".[2]
2. A British climbing term for a route that does not take the most obvious or direct line, and instead 'eliminates' the use of other features to create its line (e.g. not allowing the climber to use a nearby crack in making their ascent).[2]
Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g. fixed rope, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of alpine style.
Also figure of four and figure-four move and yaniro
An advanced climbing technique in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common in mixed climbing.[2]
figure-nine
Also figure of nine and figure-nine move
A variation of the figure-four move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.[2]
A rock-climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight, often to prevent a barn-door.[2] There are three types of flagging:[12][11]
normal flag
Flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging right foot to the right side of the body).[12][11]
reverse inside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
reverse outside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
flake
A thin slab of rock detached from the main face offering a hold, although it may become detached.[2]
flash
To ascend a route on the first attempt, but having obtained beta; with no beta, it is an on-sight.[1][2][45][3]
The French grade system for bouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American V-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with French grades.[6]
foot jam
Also heel-to-toe jam.
A technique of jamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
flapper
The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces.
The use of very basic aid climbing techniques (i.e. A0-graded aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used in big wall climbing.[46]
The French grade system for sport climbing, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American YDS system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with font grades.[6]
French start
Moving off for the second hold without being established on the start holds, thus using the floor as a foothold. In most competition climbing, including IFSC events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.[47]
frenchies
An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.
friable
Delicate and easily broken rock, or ice, often dangerously so.
Mountaineering clothing equipment that is worn over the boots and lower leg to give added protection and waterproofing.
Gaston
A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, like a reverse side pull. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named for Gaston Rébuffat.[1][2][11]
gate flutter
The unwelcome action of the gate on a carabiner opening during a fall.
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.[2]
A round hold consisting of a pocket in the rock with a positive lip, varying in size from a single finger (a "mono") to body-sized. The term comes from Hueco Tanks that is notable for huecos, the Spanish term for a "hole".
An artificial pad that is worn on the lower thigh to protect a climber when performing a knee bar; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.[56][57]
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in expedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of aid climbing support (this can also be done with flexible bachar ladders). See also aider.
A technique used to climb off-width cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placing protection.[58]
Resting lock off
A climber holding a fixed position with one bent arm, usually while clipping or reaching for another hold with their other arm, or resting. Contrast with dead hang.[1]
In competition bouldering, a marked hold somewhere between the start and zone. It is either worth some number of points (less than the zone) or used as a tiebreaker.
Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.[4] See also D-grade.
mantel move
Mantel move
Moving onto a shelf of rock by pressing down on it with the palms until the climber can stand on the "mantel" (i.e. the same action as leaving from the side of a pool).[1][2][12][11]
A route that was bolted by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful in redpointing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".[60]
A multi-move dyno where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See also campusing.[43]
To systematically attain every peak of a designated class of summits (e.g. eight-thousanders), sometimes under prescribed conditions (e.g. in winter), and/or in a prescribed climbing style (e.g. no supplementary oxygen.)
A quickdraw but made from a steel cable with steel carabiners that is permanently fixed to the bolt; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.[1]
Portaledge
A lightweight foldaway tent platform used in big wall climbing to create a rest point on a sheer rock face.
positive
A hold or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of a sloper.
pressure breathing
Also Whittaker wheeze.
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
problem
Also bouldering problem or boulder problem.
Used in bouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.[2]
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, belaying, top rope solo climbing and in simul-climbing.[62][63] See also Self-locking device.
project
Also projecting.
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) route or boulder problem as a "project".
2. A type of heavy-duty "all-weather" descender known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used in caving. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.[64]
Secondary or intermediate fixed anchor point(s) along the length of a fixed rope (i.e. in addition to the main anchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.[65]
An energy-saving mountaineering technique where the unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, by "locking" the knee of the rear leg.
retro-bolting
The addition of bolts to a route that has already been ascended using traditional climbingprotection. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.[66][67]
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a belay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
ripped
Term to denote when a piece of protection failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See zipper fall.[2]
A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr] to climb a route in Buoux called La rose et le vampire8b (5.13d) in 1985.[69]
RURP
A miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly square piton, tied to a wire or rope and hammered into cracks; created by Yvon Chouinard in 1960 for extreme aid climbing routes in Yosemite; acronym for realized ultimate reality piton.[70]
A rock climb with a much lower official climbing grade than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the crux that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]
A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiest grades.
screamer
1. Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.
The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points. See fixed rope.
sit start
Also sit down start or SDS
A sit startBouldering term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are SS (sit-start), SDS (sit-down-start), or assis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[73]
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also undercling pull.[75]
stemming
Stemming
Technique for climbing opposing corners by pushing in opposite directions with the feet and hands. See chimneying.[1][2][12][11]
step cutting
Scooping steps out of snow or ice with the adze of an ice axe.
step kicking
Scooping and stamping steps out of soft snow with the feet.
Term to describe pieces of webbing or cord left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable anchor point that was part of an abseil station.[77]
Talus rocks
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like scree.
talon hook
A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][61]
A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]
undercling pull
After a stein pull is completed, the undercling pull is a mixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[75]
A grading system for boulderingproblems invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French font scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for crampons to have penetration. See also clear ice and glaze ice.
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See also M-grade.
Round webbing
A hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to make slings.
webolette
A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
weighting
Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope. See also hangdogging.
French term for a figure-four move which came from American climber Tony Yaniro's use of it on Chouca8a+ (5.13c).[79]
yo-yo
A free climbing term pre-redpointing, where a falling lead climber returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the protection — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
American system for grading walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the French grade system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for sport climbing.[6]
^IFSC 2021 Rules Commission. "2021 Rules"(PDF). Archived from the original on May 8, 2021. Retrieved 2021-12-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
^Soanes, Catherine and Stevenson, Angus (ed.) (2005). Oxford Dictionary of English, 2nd Ed., revised, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York, p. 1775. ISBN978-0-19-861057-1.
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